Repton and its neighbourhood

by F. C. Hipkins

The name Melbourne is derived from Mael-burn, two Anglo-Saxon words meaning the “brook of the Cross.” A tradition exists that a cross was erected by the side of the brook, which runs on the south side of the town, to commemorate the murder of Osthryth, Queen of Ethelred, King of Mercia (675-704). Later on a small church was erected over the spot, which was replaced by the present one, “one of the finest and most interesting Norman churches in England—and the earliest date we are inclined to assign to its commencement is circa 1090.” Originally the church consisted of nave with side aisles, central tower, with north and south transepts, three apses at the east, two western towers, with a recessed doorway between them. Galleries, supported by groined stone roof over the western portico, extended over both aisles and central tower, two spiral stone stairs in the western towers led up to the galleries. Five “horseshoe” arches, ornamented with chevron or zizag mouldings, resting on round pillars, 4 ft. in diameter, and 15 ft. high, separate the nave from the aisles, the capitals are square, with slightly indented mouldings. The triforium on the north side has triple round arches, that on the south, of later date, has double pointed arches. The central tower, on the inner sides, is divided into three tiers of semi-circular arches. The three apses at the east end were removed probably during the reign of Henry VII. A square end was then made, and is lit by a five-light Perpendicular window. The apse arches in the transepts were built up and a three-light Decorated window was placed in the south, and a three-light Perpendicular window was placed in the north transept. Later alterations and additions have been made which certainly have not added to the beauty of the church, but, in spite of these, the church remains, as Dr. Cox writes, “one of the finest and most interesting Norman churches in England,” and well worth a visit.

In the year 1132 Henry I. founded the bishopric of Carlisle, and granted the church to it as one of its endowments. The bishops built a palace at the east end of the church, where they lived occasionally. Melbourne Hall, built on the site of the palace by Sir Thomas Coke, Chamberlain to Queen Anne, possesses one of the most beautiful gardens in the kingdom, laid out in the old Dutch style, it affords a favourite place of resort to many who visit its sylvan retreats during the summer months. They are open to the public on Wednesday afternoons.

About a mile from Melbourne is the village of King’s Newton with its picturesque ruin, the remains of an Elizabethan Hall, the ancient residence of the Hardinge family. About thirty-five years ago it was burnt down. King Charles I. is said to have been entertained here by Sir Robert Hardinge. After the King’s departure, some lines were discovered written on a pane of glass, and signed “Carlos, Newton Regis,” which accounts for the name. The view from the terrace is a very extensive one, over the valley of the Trent, with Derby and the high lands of the Peak district in the distance.

Breedon village is about two miles and a quarter from Melbourne, it lies at the foot of a singular looking hill which rises suddenly out of the plain. While all round is marl and sandstone, this hill is composed of mountain lime-stone. Rising to a height of about one hundred and fifty feet, it is seen for miles round, and is known as “the Bulwark,” and was once an ancient camp. Its sides have been quarried, and lime kilns at its base, when at work, do not improve the air. On its summit is a church, all that remains of a Priory of Austin Canons, built in Norman times. There is a legend which accounts for its exposed position. It is said that evil spirits interfered with its erection at the foot of the hill, and removed the foundations as often as they were laid. In vain were exorcising prayers offered up, what was done in the day was removed at night, so the materials were carried up to the top, and the church was allowed to be built, in it have been laid to rest members of the Ferrers, Curzons, and Shakespear families. The Ferrers’ pew, separated from the church by iron bars, surmounted by large escutcheons, is a rare example of the luxury, selfishness, and exclusiveness which animated the feelings of “the quality” in bygone times.

MICKLE-OVER, FINDERNE AND POTLAC OR POTLOCK.

The manor Mickle-Over with the three chapelries of Finderne, Little-Over, and Potlac, was granted by William the Conqueror to Burton Abbey, and it remained with it till the dissolution of Monasteries, when Henry VIII. granted the manor to his secretary, Sir William Paget. Thomas, Lord Paget, sold the manor to the famous Lord Mayor of London, Sir Thomas Gresham, whose widow married again, and left the property to Sir William Reade, her son by her second husband. Sir William Reade’s daughter and heiress married Sir Michael Stanhope, and had three daughters, co-heiresses, between whom the estates were divided. In 1648, Edward Wilmot bought two shares, viz., Little-Over and Finderne, which were again sold by Sir Robert Wilmot to Edward Sacheverell Pole in 1801. The remaining share, Mickle-Over, was sold to Sir John Curzon in 1648, from the Curzons Mr. Newton bought it in 1789. An ancestor of Mr. Newton who died in 1619, had previously inherited the manor-house of Mickle-Over by marriage with the heiress of William Gilbert, to whom it had been sold by Sir Thomas Gresham. The house is now occupied by the tenant of the farm.

Little-Over is about two miles from Mickle-Over, and used to be the seat of the Harpur family, Chief Justice Sir Richard Harpur built the manor-house, in which the family lived till the days of John Harpur, who died in 1754, when the property passed to the Heathcotes. In the church is a costly monument to Sir Richard Harpur, son of the Chief Justice, and his wife Mary, daughter of Thomas Reresby. The church consists of nave, chancel, north aisles, and bell turret on the west gable. The blocked-up Norman doorway in the west end is the only relic of ancient days.

Finderne is a small village, about two miles from Repton. It had a very interesting old chapel, dating back to its Norman days, but in the year 1862 it was completely destroyed. It must have been like the chapel at Little-Over. The present church consists of nave, chancel, and tower, with a spire at the west end. The only relic of the Norman church are the tympanum of the old south door, carved in chequered pattern, with a cross formée in the centre, and a recessed founder’s arch in the north wall of the chancel, which contains a much mutilated effigy of a priest.

The most valued possession of the church is a small chalice and cover, considered to be the oldest piece of church plate in the county. The Hall-mark shows it to be of the year 1564-5.

The Vicar of Finderne, the Rev. B. W. Spilsbury, has in his possession a very curious and rare relic of mediæval times. It is a small sculptured block of alabaster, 8¾ inches by 7 inches, and 1½ inches thick. There is a beautifully drawn and painted copy of it in Vol. VIII. of the Derbyshire Archæological Journal, by Mr. George Bailey, also an article on it by the Rev. J. Charles Cox.