Through lands that were dark / Being a record of a year's missionary journey in Africa and Madagascar

by F. H. Hawkins

Dr. Sibree has, throughout his missionary life, been ably seconded and supported in all his “works of faith and labours of love” by his devoted wife, to whom the women and girls of Ambohimanga, and, in later years, of Tananarive, owe so much. As I have already mentioned, Dr. and Mrs. Sibree have given four children to missionary work. Two of their daughters, Mrs. Milledge and Miss Elsie Sibree are to-day rendering fine service to the kingdom in Madagascar.

On the Jubilee day a great gathering of missionaries was held in Faravohitra Church in honour of Dr. and Mrs. Sibree. Several presentations were made to them from the Directors of our Society, from their fellow missionaries and from the missionaries of other Societies, in recognition of the services they have rendered, and of the respect, esteem and affection in which they are held. It is said that never before in the history of Madagascar has such a large gathering of missionaries taken place. Later in the same day a reception and garden party were held, at which even a larger number of the missionary community were present to celebrate the occasion. A few days afterwards a great gathering of past and present students of the Theological College met to offer their tribute of gratitude and esteem to the missionary who had trained so many of the preachers, pastors, and evangelists, now engaged in the evangelization of the island.

Dr. and Mrs. Sibree.

Only a passing reference can be made to the meetings of the Joint Conference. This gathering was unique, for it is believed that never before in the history of the Christian Church have all the Protestant Missionary Societies at work in a mission field appointed simultaneous deputations to unite with the missionaries on the spot to study in common the problems and needs of the field, and to plan together for its evangelization. Many matters of common interest to all the Societies were considered, and important discussions were held with the Malagasy Christian leaders. The subjects of the evangelization of the island, the work of delimitation, education, the social and moral condition of the people, the recrudescence of heathenism, the growth of atheism and agnosticism, and many other questions vitally affecting the life of the people and the growth of the Church came up for discussion. The meetings were held in the beautiful French Protestant Church in Tananarive in the early days of October. The tone and spirit which prevailed throughout the deliberations were of the highest. The Conference owed much to its Chairman, M. le Pasteur Couve, who presided throughout with wisdom, tact, patience and good humour. The holding of such a Conference in which High Anglican, Lutheran, Quaker and Congregationalist, British, French, Norwegian, and American took an equal part, was a remarkable evidence of the growth of the spirit of comity and co-operation in the mission field.

But amongst the many vivid experiences of those crowded closing days in Tananarive, the most lasting impression was that made by the great meetings of the Isan-Enim-Bolana. This institution is a federation of the Imerina Churches of the L. M. S., F. F. M. A., and P. M. S., and it holds a warm place in the regard and affection of the Malagasy Christians. Moreover, it is a Missionary Society and sends its own native missionaries into the outlying districts in the North where, but for its efforts, there would be no Christian work carried on. It is the child of the London Missionary Society, and came into being in the year 1868. Since then it has met every half-year in the Capital, and its gatherings are always marked with a spirit of great earnestness and enthusiasm. It met in October, and high as our expectations were from what we had heard, the gatherings surpassed all that our imagination had pictured. On Wednesday afternoon, October 8th, five preaching services were held at the same hour in five of the largest Churches in the Capital, and these were followed by two great meetings in connection with the Christian Endeavour Societies. Perhaps a short account of my own experiences at the Isan-Enim-Bolana, which were similar to those of my fellow-delegates, will convey some impression of the character of these Meetings. I was taking lunch with a party of French Missionaries, when M. Pierre de Seynes came to tell me that the French Church in which I was to speak was already crowded to its utmost limits, although it was nearly two hours before the time for the commencement of the service. On reaching the Church an hour and a half later I had the greatest difficulty in effecting an entrance. There was a dense crowd round the door of those who could not find room. It required great care to walk up the aisle without treading upon the women, who were sitting on the ground two abreast. The great congregation occupied every foot of available space; the floor of the chancel was packed, and men were sitting on the communion rails, on the top of the harmonium, and on the pulpit steps. Moreover, there were groups of people round the numerous open windows on the ground floor, and the gallery and the steps leading to it were likewise crowded. The scene from the pulpit can never be forgotten. The contrast between the black hair, brown faces and white lambas of the worshippers formed a striking picture. Pastor Rabary, the Chairman of the Isan-Enim-Bolana, translated for me. The vigorous action and fine declamation of the interpreter, combined with the inspiration which one receives from the enthusiasm and devoutness of a great audience, had their effect upon the quieter methods of the more phlegmatic Englishman, and I found myself moved to speak with a force and earnestness rarely experienced before. My address was followed by what I am told was an eloquent sermon by one of the ablest of the younger Malagasy leaders, Pastor Rakotonirainy, who is also a successful master in one of the F. F. M. A. Schools. As soon as the service was over the congregation hurried away to a great Christian Endeavour meeting at Ampamarinana, where the Church was already packed. An overflow meeting was arranged to be held in the Church which we had just left, and in a few moments that building was again filled to overflowing, and I was called upon to give another address, which was translated by Pastor Razafimahefa, who interprets from both French or English into Malagasy with wonderful force and fluency.

But the greatest gatherings took place on the following morning. At 6 o’clock seven of the most spacious Churches were thronged to their utmost capacity, some having arrived at 4 a.m. to secure a seat for the meetings, which were not to commence till four hours later. I was appointed to speak at the great meeting for men in the spacious Ampamarinana Church, which had for hours been filled to overflowing. As soon as I had spoken I was hurried away in a chair to an overflow meeting in a neighbouring Church, and, having spoken there, went on to Faravohitra Church, which was crowded with women, where my address was translated by Mrs. Milledge, who speaks Malagasy like a native. The service at this Church was concluded by eleven o’clock. Then came one of the characteristic features of the meetings of the Isan-Enim-Bolana. It is the practice for the Mother Churches in the Capital to entertain the delegates from the various Daughter Churches in the country. I went to Analakely, where some 1,400 people sat down in five relays to abundant meals of rice and meat prepared by their hosts. The same gracious hospitality was shown in each of the Mother Churches of Tananarive. After attending such gatherings one wonders whether there is any place in the world, unless it is Korea, where such great crowds gather for Christian worship.

The hearts of sympathetic visitors to Madagascar are often thrilled at these manifest signs of the Divine blessing upon the work of the Missionaries, but very little investigation shows that there is another side to the picture, and that the young Malagasy Church needs all its zeal and courage to face the difficulties and dangers with which it is surrounded. Apart from the experience which unfortunately is common in all Christian communities, that practice does not always correspond with profession, the Malagasy Christians have special difficulties of their own which confront the growing Church. They have to face the temptations which beset a backward race living in the tropics, and the struggle with sensualism and immorality is a severe one.

Moreover, in recent years materialism and agnosticism have come into the land like a flood, and tax to the uttermost the wisdom and consecration of the Christian workers in the island. Again, it must be remembered that the activities of the Church are being carried on in an unsympathetic environment, for apart from the deadening influence of the native heathenism amidst which the Church is at work, the unfriendly attitude towards religion of the French official class is felt on every hand. Again, on the north-east and north-west coasts the menace of the advance of Islam is increasingly felt, and already there are at least 75,000 Moslems in the country, professing a degraded type of Mohammedanism and introducing many vices, especially drunkenness and immorality. It will be a surprise to many to know that during the recent Balkan war a collection was made in Madagascar to help the Turks to fight “the vile Christians.”

With these and other difficulties confronting the young Malagasy Church, it will be readily understood that the battle is by no means won. Moreover, much of the field has, up to the present, not been occupied by the Christian army, and great is the work remaining to be accomplished.