Trade would be in a flourishing condition if the Tonkinese were as active as they are industrious, but, sunk into the slough of idleness, they divide their time between sleeping and eating. When they are not actually eating, they smoke, dance or sing. By a cowardly policy, the government puts obstacles in the way of industry, the vassal States of the Empire are excluded from any participation in sources of wealth. The rapacity of the tax-gathers is an effectual check to competition, as people are not anxious to spend their energies on work, the fruit of which is reaped by others. The Tonkinese by nature a suspicious and distrustful race are somewhat chary of the overtures of foreigners and being too fearful of danger are unable to gain any advantage. The legislative code of Tonkin has been borrowed from China, and the administration of the law is in the hands of corrupt persons who sacrifice the innocent poor to the guilty rich. Each provincial governor is judge in his own province. Polygamy is the rule all over Tonkin and no woman can boast of the title "wife." The bonds of these unions or rather of this concubinage, are easily broken. The man gives the woman a writing of divorcement which restores the woman to all her rights. The woman cannot obtain divorce no matter whether she have just grounds or no, and if she is convicted of adultery she is condemned to be trampled to death by elephants. Her paramour dies by another form of torture. The eldest son, after his father's death, receives the whole of the estate and the paternal authority on condition that he provides for his brothers until they are married. The daughters have no share in the heritage. Other laws are similar to those in force in other countries of the Indo-Chinese peninsula. Their love of display is noticeable in their marriage feasts. Actors of both sexes perform dances to the accompaniment of a big drum, and the performance is followed by a concert given by hired musicians. Few ceremonies take place without a show of cock-fighting on which considerable wagers are laid. Girls are married at the age of sixteen and seventeen years, and parental consent is required to make the union legitimate. The brides see their husbands on their wedding day for the first time and priests are excluded from the ceremony and the festivities.

Their funeral rites are the works of superstition, astrologers are appointed to indicate the place of burial and the corpse is kept for several months until some favourable omen indicates a suitable spot. During this delay the relatives of the deceased offer the usual food to the corpse as if it were still alive. It is kept in a room illuminated by torches. Incense and gilt paper on which are painted figures of various animals are burnt in its honour and the relatives pay it a daily visit and prostrate themselves with every appearance of woe.

Those who accompany the funeral procession are dressed in coarse garments and walk barefoot. They support themselves with sticks and their slow tottering step is a sign of their grief.

The nearest relative throws himself on the ground at intervals and the corpse-bearers tread him under foot. The corpse is dressed in rich attire and, as a safeguard against poverty in the next world, a piece of gold and some pearls are placed in its mouth. On certain days in the year offerings of food and incense are made at the tomb that the dead may not lack support.

Although many festivals are celebrated, it seems that they are all due to religious influences. The most noteworthy is the feast of tombs, which is celebrated on the anniversary of the death of the persons in question and bountiful feasts are offered to them. The King and the nobility celebrate their birthdays with great pomp, and their marriage days with dances, concerts, and theatrical performances. At a certain festival, the King followed by all his court, blesses the produce of the soil. He drives the plough and makes several furrows as a tribute to agriculture. There is another ceremony at which exorcisms are made to rid the land of evil spirits. New year's day is an occasion of great rejoicings. Booths are set up where men and women perform dramatic pieces and sing to the accompaniment of the orchestra. Everybody appears to be mad with joy and no business is transacted. All work is at a standstill, the halls of justice are closed and the seal of state is put away in its case. Criminals have no fear of punishment during the feast. The license which reigns supreme during this season exposes the women to outrage and they never appear unless with an ample guard.

The Monarch has but a semblance of real power, the commander-in-chief is the real ruler and it is the latter whom the Europeans regard as King. He has a large body-guard and is attended by a corps of 300 elephants, whereas the actual king, buried in the obscurity of his palace with his wife and children, is served by faithless menials who act as spies on his movements. It is surprising that the commander-in-chief allows the existence of this phantom ruler, but the Tonkinese have such veneration for the master that it would be a dangerous matter to attempt to supersede him.

The commander-in-chief has usually a force of 150,000 infantry and from 10,000 to 20,000 cavalry under his orders. Recruits are eager to join the colours, but at the sight of the enemy their courage evaporates and, as bravery is not one of their characteristics, they are more ready to dig entrenchments than to make sorties therefrom. The commander has no great confidence in his men, at least if we can form an opinion from a letter written to the commander of the Dutch forces in the Indies.

"I have," he remarks, "300,000 infantry 10,000 cavalry, 2,000 elephants, 30,000 musketeers and 1,000 pieces of artillery at my disposal, I beg you to send 200 men and 3 ships to assist me." After such a pompous display of the numbers under his command, one cannot fail to draw the logical conclusion.

The majority of the military positions of trust are confided to eunuchs, enervated by the luxury of court life. Ability is not the road to success, although the posts are not obtainable by bribery, all of them are put up for sale to the highest bidder, because in a kingdom of vast extent in which the eye of the ruler is unable to penetrate the remotest parts, the grandees are always the sharers of intrigue and never of the worth that hides itself in the shade.

The whole strength of their united navy would be unable to hold its own against one of our warships.