The Market Place is a fine oblong square, surrounded with shops. In the centre there formerly stood a cross, which was erected in the reign of Edward III., and contained a small chapel, or oratory, which was taken down in 1732. Opposite the Gentleman’s Walk is a fine statue of the late Duke of Wellington, erected in 1854. The statue of Lord Nelson, which until lately stood near the Guildhall, is now removed to a more suitable situation in the Upper Close. The market days are Wednesday and Saturday—the latter the principal one; and no market is better supplied with the necessaries and comforts of life. The Skin Market is held in the Old Haymarket, opposite the Savings’ Bank. The Fish Market is held behind the houses on the west side, and is well supplied. Norwich is considered exceedingly healthy. It is defended from the easterly winds by the Mousehold Hills, which, combined with the abundance of springs in the city and its suburbs, and the Health of Towns’ Act, render it an extremely healthy locality.
Norwich seems to have arisen from the ruin of Venta Icenorum, now Caister, the capital of the Iceni, 3 miles south. In 575, it is said to have been fortified by Uffa, first king of the East Angles. In 642, it was a chief seat of his successor Anna. In the time of Alfred the Great, and afterwards, it was attacked by the Danes, and became the capital of Guthrum. The place rose to importance, and had a mint; and in the reign of Edward the Confessor it was of that greatness, that it had 25 churches, and 1,320 burgesses. In 1094, Bishop Herbert de Losinga moved the see here from Thetford. This bishop, in 1096, began the cathedral. In 1336, a number of Flemish weavers settled here, and greatly improved the worsted and clothing trades. In 1565, a further accession of these artizans was obtained, in consequence of the persecution in the Netherlands.
Next to Manchester, London and Glasgow, Norwich is one of the largest seats of the weaving trade. The previous remarks shew that it is of great antiquity; and the trade has taken fresh vigour from the introduction of the factory system. The chief productions are bombazines, crapes, gauzes, challis, mousselin de laine, fillover shawls, silk shawls, bandannas, camlets, mohair, paramattas, poplins, bareges, glove cloths, sewing cotton, coach lace, horse hair, sacking, sailcloth, &c. There are also dyeries, foundries, machine works, tanneries, breweries, maltkilns, coach works, rope works, chemical works, soaperies, paper mills, pianoforte and organ works, and the boot and shoe trade employ several hundred hands. Norwich has a Chamber of Commerce.
The city and county of the city are governed by a corporation, consisting of a mayor, 16 aldermen, and 48 councillors, with a sheriff, under-sheriff, recorder, judge of the borough court, town-clerk, clerk of the peace, coroner, jailer, superintendent of police, four sergeants-at-mace, water-bailiff, bellman, &c. There is a separate commission of the peace, with 26 justices, holding quarter sessions and daily sessions. The Borough Court is held every day. There is also a Court of Pleas and Court of Conscience. The revenues of the corporation are about £15,000 a year. The city returns two Members to Parliament. Assizes and quarter sessions for the county and city are held at the usual periods. There is a County Court; Will and Ecclesiastical Courts are held for the diocese and archdeaconry. There is a large fair for horses and cattle, called Tombland Fair, held on the day before Good Friday, and pleasure fairs at Easter and Whitsuntide.
Norwich Castle is situated on the summit of a hill, nearly in the centre of the city. It has a most striking appearance, and is full of interest, both to the antiquary, artist, and historian. A stone erection, or royal castle, is believed to have been built here on Uffa’s intrenchments, about the year 642, and was one of the chief seats of Anna, king of the East Angles. It was often attacked and nearly destroyed by the Danes, but was partly rebuilt by Canute, after he had obtained sole power in England. Mr. Wilkins says, although the greater part of it might be built in the reign of Canute, “it is, notwithstanding, in the style of architecture practised by the Saxons, long before England became subject to the Danes, and is the best exterior specimen of this kind of architecture extant.” The promontory on which the keep of this castle is built, appears to be chiefly the work of nature, excepting what has, probably, been thrown out from the inner vallum; for it may be observed that the ground from the castle, for the best part of a mile southwards, is nearly level with the upper ballium, although it dips to the west, and most rapidly to the east. The area of the whole castle, including the three ditches which circumscribed it, could not be less than twenty-three acres; and the principal entrance was from Berg or Burgh street, i.e., the street leading to the castle—through the barbican or advanced work at the entrance of the castle over a bridge—across the outward vallum which was at the south end of what is now called Golden Ball street.
The interior of the castle has undergone such a number of alterations, with the view of adapting it to its use as a county gaol, that all traces of its ancient apartments have long been lost. It formerly contained a royal chapel, free from ecclesiastical control, and dedicated to St. Nicholas. The first rural dean of the deanery of Norwich, in 1221, pretended to spiritual jurisdiction in this chapel, but for his temerity was obliged to supplicate forgiveness from the king.
The castle was originally defended by three walls and ditches; each ditch having a bridge over it. The outer ditch has been filled up from time immemorial. The middle one was levelled in the last century: traces of it may be discovered on the north side, where the yards of the houses are often from 18 to 20 feet below the road. The inner ditch extended round the bottom of the hill upon which the keep is standing, and is now a tasteful plantation with a gravelled walk in the centre, bounded by an iron palisading. It is worthy notice that the space within this palisading, although in the centre of the city boundary, is the property of the county. The bridge which crossed the inner ditch is still standing, and consists of one large circular arch, 40 feet in span. It is supposed that this is the original bridge erected by the Saxons: at its termination upon the hill are the remains of two circular towers, which are believed to have flanked the portal of the ballium wall. Upon this bridge the county criminals are executed: the thoughts of the visitor will probably recur to one, who a few years since suffered for crimes unparalleled in atrocity.
The fine panoramic view which a walk round the summit of the hill affords, will not soon be forgotten by a stranger. We may venture to assert that no town in the kingdom contains in its centre an elevation which affords so extensive and agreeable a promenade. All the churches and public buildings in the city may be distinctly seen, bounded in the distance by Mousehold Heath, and the pleasant villages of Costessey, Thorpe, Catton, Bixley, and Whitlingham.
At the east end of the castle stands the New County Gaol, erected in 1824 upon the site of a less convenient building, pulled down for the purpose. It is surrounded by a high wall cased with granite, and surmounted by battlements. The interior is commodious, well adapted for the health of the prisoners, and in every respect suited for proper prison regulations. The governor’s house faces the entrance, and commands an entire view of the various parts of the building. Besides the family apartments, it contains a committee-room for the visiting magistrates, and a chapel for the prisoners. From this, branch three wings, each of which contains a double row of cells upon the upper and ground floors. Crossing these, are single rows of cells, and an arcade for the perambulations of the prisoners when the weather will not allow their walking in the yard. Behind these are three other wings with arcades below, and upon the upper floor, double rows of cells: in all there are 225 cells, and the average number of prisoners is about 120. The tread-mill here is not altogether “labour in vain;” for attached to it is a machine for raising water. Not only is the silent system adopted, but at the mill each prisoner is separated from his neighbour by a wooden partition. Industry is the order of the day; mat-making—oakum-picking—carpentry—shoe-making, and other useful occupations, tend to make the prisoners contributors to the cost of their maintenance. A schoolmaster is kept, and every official is considered his auxiliary. The chaplain and governor are both known to be indefatigable in their efforts to create in the minds of the prisoners a distaste for vicious pursuits; and in not a few instances have they been attended with complete success.
Upon the spacious declivity at the foot of the bridge is held the Cattle Market, the largest in England (London excepted). The market is held every Saturday, and upon that day the visitor will have an opportunity of witnessing such a show of agricultural live stock as no other provincial town can furnish. Moreover, he will not fail to be interested in the portly appearance and rich brogue of the principal actors in the busy scene; for various specimens of the “Norfolk Farmer” may here be seen to full perfection; and we would strongly advise that the chance be not neglected.