I was curious to know why such a poetic title had been applied to the highest of the Sulu peaks, and so I made inquiries. In all cases the natives agreed as to the “reason why,” which is this. When the Sulu boats sail away towards the horizon on their trading excursions, this peak is the last bit of their native land which is visible; it is the “white cliffs of old England” to them; and the wanderers being accustomed to remember their peaceful sunlit homes and their friends, drop a tear as the last glimpse of their native earth fades from sight, perhaps for months, or even years; hence the name Bu’at Timantangis, or the “Hill of Tears.” Bu’at Dahau is, however, but little less in altitude; and it is doubtless at its apex that the last crater in the island existed, although of course it has long been extinct; yet the course of the débris thrown out can be seen down its sides, which are scarred or furrowed by volcanic action in a very marked manner. Sugh, the ancient capital,—or Banawa as the place is now called—is in the hands of the Spaniards, and pretty regular communication is kept up from thence to Manilla and the Philippine group. One of the Chinese traders who came with us visited the place and brought back several jars of excellent biscuits and a few boxes of fine Manilla cigars. There are two market-places in Meimbong, and there are three markets during the week; and as very few places afford a better epitome of the thrift of a people or the produce of a country than a market, I will briefly allude to what I saw of these held here.
We went to bathe early one morning, and saw the market-people coming in from all directions and bringing produce of the most varied character. Most of them—both men and women—were mounted on ponies or buffaloes; some indeed ride their cows to market as being preferable to walking, their produce being slung across the saddle before or behind. Every man carried a spear, and a couple of hours later the space beneath the clumps of bamboo just to the left of the market gate, was crowded with people, the women trading, and the men standing talking in groups, all the business of the day being done amid a forest of spears. The country people from the hills were very much interested in us as we moved about amongst them and their goods. Sweet potatoes, mangoes, bananas, yams and corn cobs, were offered for sale in neatly woven baskets made of cocoa-nut leaves. The leaves of piper betel made up into little packets, and lime beautifully fine and white (made by burning coral limestone and shells) were offered to betel-chewers; nor was a good supply of the betel-nuts themselves wanting. We especially noticed a very large fruited variety of Areca catechu here, which I had never before seen, the individual fruits being as large as a hen’s egg, and of a clear bright yellow colour. The typical form so common in Singapore and Labuan, has fruits the size of a pigeon’s egg only, and of a clear orange-red colour.
Tobacco leaves of native growth and manufacture were exposed for sale in bundles, and some of it is made up into balls as large as a man’s head, and several pounds in weight. Although tobacco can be easily grown here, it is but little valued, owing to faulty preparation; and the inferior Chinese tobacco is preferred by the Sulus to their own produce, and is a regular kind of currency in which almost all small payments may be made. Thus, the hire of a pony for a day is about two bundles; a day’s wage for a man about the same. The wholesale price in Singapore is about sixpence a bundle, or even less. At the time of our visit rice was very scarce and dear in Sulu; indeed as much as ten dollars per picul was paid, while horses and cattle were relatively very cheap. Thus good buffaloes could be bought for eight or ten dollars each; cattle at six to fifteen dollars a head, and ponies at ten to twenty dollars; indeed many of the people were well nigh starving owing to the last war and the dry season combined; and in many cases they were glad to sell their cattle for rice, or the means of obtaining it. Among the few articles of native manufacture offered for sale, I noticed embroidered kerchiefs and sarongs, also rope of good quality. Fish, eggs, cocoa-nuts, jack-fruit, and cucumbers, were exceedingly plentiful.
It is not uncommon to see some few of the Sulus from the hills wearing tunics of chain armour, having brass plates on the breast and down the back, all the rest being fine chain-work. At the time of our visit Mr. Cowie bought one of these tunics for about two pounds, which he paid in rice. The Sulus themselves say that these were formerly made in the island, but I think this is extremely doubtful; and it is far more probable that this armour formerly belonged to their old enemies the Spaniards, from whom they have obtained it during the numerous wars between them. The most singular thing is that the comparatively few Sulus who possess these tunics should continue to wear them, as they most assuredly do.
There are a good few Chinese settlers here in Meimbong who have stalls on which to expose their goods in the markets. They supply needles, thread, betel-nut knives, cheap calico and print goods, handkerchiefs, and occasionally blades of the choppers generally used in Sulu, and other common cutlery, looking-glasses, boxes, &c. The currency here is now the Chinese brass “cash,” the rate of exchange at the time of my visit being 900 to the dollar. Payments of small amounts however, say up to twenty dollars, can always be made in white or “grey shirting.” The packets of Chinese tobacco before alluded to, serve for small change.
CHAPTER XI.
THE SULTAN’S ISTANA AND THE “HILL OF TEARS.”
A moonlight ride—A fragrant weed—The Istana—Modern armament—“Gelah”—Royal hospitality—A social servant—The Sultan—State sword or “Barong”—A Sulu dinner—A long audience—Curiosity of the ladies—Departure to the mountain—A newly-made grave—Orchids at home—A treat for our cattle—Rough climbing—Ferns and mosses—The summit—Good views—Old traditions of the mountain—A picnic under cocoa-nut palms—“Gelah” v. Hennessy—Return to the Istana—Further audience of the Sultan—Former civilisation—Carved wood-work—Old manufactures—Old enemies—Physique of the Sulus—A pearl among the swine—Market-people—Slavery—Language—Land culture—Native food products—Domestic animals—Sea fruit.
One evening about sundown, immediately after an early dinner on board, we set off to the Sultan’s Istana, which is situated just at the foot of Bu’at Timantangis, the highest mountain in the island. The distance from the harbour at Meimbong is seven or eight miles, a pleasant ride indeed across an undulating and tolerably well cultivated plain. We had ordered our ponies to be in readiness at the Orang Kayu’s house, and the boatmen who accompanied us from the ship soon saddled them for us and made all ready. Mr. Anson Cowie accompanied me. We had three ponies, two for ourselves, and one for a Sulu lad who had charge of our stores, guns, &c., and who came to attend to the ponies and accompany us up the mountain, to ascend which was the main object of our journey. All the little details requisite at starting attended to, it was nearly seven o’clock as we rode through the market gate, just opposite the headman’s house—a veritable needle’s eye—there being barely room for a slim Sulu pony and its rider to squeeze through. The moon was in the full, and rose as we started over the plain. We had a delightful gallop, and had no need of a guide, as the horses knew the way perfectly well. It had been a remarkably hot day, but it was now deliciously cool, the soft air being gratefully redolent with the odour of a mint-like plant (Hyptis) before mentioned. We laughed and sang to our heart’s content, and doubtless much to the surprise of the few Sulus we met hurrying homewards.