The language spoken in Sulu, notwithstanding that it contains many Malay words and others of Arabic origin, is yet practically very distinct, approaching much more nearly that spoken by the inland tribes of Northern Borneo. In physique and bold fearless bearing there is also a striking resemblance between the north Borneans and the Sulus, while both races display the same acuteness, mingled with suspicion, in all matters of trade. So striking is the resemblance in physique, language, and conduct, as to suggest the possibility of their having originally descended from one common stock, and I am inclined to think that the same language was used by them before the advent of the now dominant Malays, who had Arabic blood in their veins, and to whom is doubtless due the introduction of the Arabic character and Islamism, and whose language is now the lingua franca of Malasia. The government of the island, although in a great measure in the hands of the Sultan, can scarcely be called despotic, since the people are represented in the council chamber, or “ruma bichari,” by their Datus or headmen, and but few if any important matters were decided by the Sultan personally, without the opinion of the native chiefs. During our visit to the Istana His Highness regretted very much that he had not power to drive out the Spaniards.

The cultural capabilities of the island are considerable, and in the hands of the Spaniards they are likely to be still better developed. The principal cultivated crops are rice, maize, coffee, manilla hemp, cocoa (Theobroma Cacao), tobacco, and tapioca. During the rides I took in the island I had good opportunities of seeing the arable land, and I was much impressed with the produce obtainable from the soil at a slight expenditure of labour. The deep soil is loosened by a rude plough, drawn by a single buffalo. This is done in the dry season, and seed sowing and planting commence with the rainy weather. I saw coffee bushes growing apparently wild around the little farm-houses on the cool hill-sides, especially on Bu’at Dahau, which I ascended a few days after our return from Bu’at Timantangis, and every leaf was fresh and green without a trace of the leaf fungus which of late years has proved so hurtful in Ceylon. The cocoa-yielding Theobroma does equally well and fruits freely, forming indeed what may be called the national beverage in Sulu. Excellent tobacco is grown here, and this, if skilfully prepared, would furnish cigars equal to those of Manilla. Cotton would do well, and the highest red land on the mountains, rich as it is with ages of forest débris, might be advantageously planted with coffee or other crops. Rice, tapioca, tobacco, and sugar cane would do best on the plains. An immense quantity of fruit is produced in the island, especially mangoes and bananas. The fragrant durian is also plentiful, together with langsat, and several other kinds. I noticed two distinct varieties of cocoa-nut cultivated here, one bearing small oblong fruits of a bright orange yellow colour, the milk of which was delicious in flavour, and another, the outer husk of which could be eaten in its young state, it being white as ivory, and very sweet and tender.

I have already alluded to a breed of ponies as being peculiar to the island. These are larger and in every way better than the Deli breed, imported to Singapore from Sumatra. They are never shod, nor is emasculation ever resorted to. Goats and poultry are very abundant. Of the former, a dark brown race resembling deer in gracefulness and activity, are kept by the hill people. The fowls of Sulu are distinct from those of Borneo, and are believed not to be many degrees removed from their wild prototypes. Of the other natural produce of the island the frutto del mare deserves notice, being especially valuable, worth, indeed, many thousands of dollars yearly. Pearls of all colours in quantity and of excellent quality, are obtained here yearly by the divers, most of whom are of the ubiquitous Badjow or Sea gipsy race. Tons of pearl shell (tepoy) and sea slug or beche de mer (Holothuria), of different kinds, are also exported annually.

This last repulsive-looking product is picked off the coral reefs at low water, and after being dried is esteemed a great delicacy by the Chinese, to whom it is sold. The pearl-shell obtained here is of fine quality, each valve being frequently as large as an ordinary dinner-plate, and an inch in thickness. At least a dozen kinds of salt-water fish are obtainable, and I frequently saw the fishing-boats off the town at night, each with a light gleaming over the water, and I noticed that they all seemed to have secured a fair supply of fish when they came alongside in the morning.


[1] “Malay Archipelago,” vol. ii. p. 212. [↑]

[2] “Life in the Forests of the Far East,” 2d. ed., vol. i. p. 404. [↑]

CHAPTER XII.

A ROYAL VISIT.