Oysters are mollusks, having two shells. The shells are on the right and left side of the oyster, and are called right and left valves. The one upon which the oyster rests grows faster, becomes deeper, and is known as the left valve. The valves are fastened by a ligament, which, on account of its elasticity, admits of opening and closing of the shells. The oyster contains a tough muscle, by which it is attached to the shell; the body is made up largely of the liver (which contains glycogen, animal starch), and is partially surrounded by fluted layers, which are the gills. Natural oyster beds (or banks) are found in shallow salt water having stony bottom, along the entire Atlantic Coast. The oyster industry of the world is chiefly in the United States and France, and on account of its increase many artificial beds have been prepared for oyster culture. Oysters are five years old before suitable for eating. Blue Points, which are small, plump oysters, take their name from Blue Point, Long Island, from which place they originally came. Their popularity grew so rapidly that the supply became inadequate for the demand, and any small, plump oysters were soon sold for Blue Points. During the oyster season they form the first course of a dinner, served raw on the half shell. In our markets, selected oysters (which are extremely large and used for broiling) Providence River, and Norfolk oysters are familiarly known, and, taken out of the shells, are sold by the quart. Farther south, they are sold by count.
Oysters are obtainable all the year, but are in season from September to May. During the summer mouths they are flabby and of poor flavor, although when fresh they are perfectly wholesome. Mussels, eaten in England and other parts of Europe, are similar to oysters, though of inferior quality. Oysters are nutritious and of easy digestibility, especially when eaten raw.
To Open Oysters. Put a thin flat knife under the back end of the right valve, and push forward until it cuts the strong muscle which holds the shells together. As soon as this is done, the right valve may be raised and separated from the left.
To Clean Oysters. Put oysters in a strainer placed over a bowl. Pour over oysters cold water, allowing one-half cup water to each quart oysters. Carefully pick over oysters, taking each one separately in the fingers, to remove any particles of shell which adhere to tough muscle.
Clams, among bivalve mollusks, rank in value next to oysters. They are found just below the surface of sand and mud, above low-water mark, and are easily dug with shovel or rake. Clams have hard or soft shells. Soft-shell clams are dear to the New Englander. From New York to Florida are found hard-shelled clams (quahaugs). Small quahaugs are called Little Neck Clams and take the place of Blue Points at dinner, when Blue Points are out of season.
Scallops are bivalve mollusks, the best being found in Long Island Sound and Narragansett Bay. The central muscle forms the edible portion, and is the only part sent to market. Scallops are in season from October first to April first.
II. Crustaceans
Lobsters belong to the highest order of Crustaceans, live exclusively in sea-water, generally near rocky coasts, and are caught in pots set on gravelly bottoms. The largest and best species are found in Atlantic waters from Maine to New Jersey, being most abundant on Maine and Massachusetts coasts. Lobsters have been found weighing from sixteen to twenty-five pounds, but such have been exterminated from our coast. The average weight is two pounds, and the length from ten to fifteen inches. Lobsters are largest and most abundant from June to September, but are obtainable all the year. When taken from the water, shells are of mottled dark green color, except when found on sandy bottoms, when they are quite red. Lobsters are generally boiled, causing the shell to turn red.
A lobster consists of body, tail, two large claws, and four pairs of small claws. On lower side of body, in front of large claws, are various small organs which surround the mouth, and a long and short pair of feelers. Under the tail are found several pairs of appendages. In the female lobster, also called hen lobster, is found, during the breeding season, the spawn, known as coral. Sex is determined by the pair of appendages in the tail which lie nearest the body; in the female they are soft and pliable, in the male hard and stiff. At one time small lobsters were taken in such quantities that it was feared, if the practice was long continued, they would be exterminated. To protect the continuance of lobster fisheries, a law has been passed in many States prohibiting their sale unless at least ten inches long.
Lobsters shed their shells at irregular intervals, when old ones are outgrown. The new ones begin to form and take on distinctive characteristics before the old ones are discarded. New shells after twenty-four hours’ exposure to the water are quite hard.