Sultan Orkhan and his Grand Vizir devoted much time to the regulation of the forms and colors of garments and head-dresses. These measures subsequently embraced all the details of the fashion, material, linings, and borders of the kaftans, dolmans, and pelisses of honor worn by the different functionaries at state ceremonies. Costume became the distinguishing mark of rank among the ruling race, and the token of creed among the subject nations.
It was, however, the head covering that was at all times the part of oriental dress that received the greatest attention. At the time of the conquest the Greeks wore embroidered or gilt caps, the Turcomans caps of red felt, and the Ottomans, as a distinction, adopted white felt caps to be worn by the military and civil servants. Their shape and the color of the turbans that encircled them depended upon the rank and profession of the wearer; they were of varied form and color, bright and picturesque, and harmonized well with the equally variegated and rich pelisses and kaftans of the Mohammedans. The garments worn by these dignitaries were of rich tissues and fine cloths, and consisted of wide and long shalvars, or trousers, vests, rich shawls, girdles, and jackets of different shapes.
By degrees, however, great changes were introduced into the national dress, which became extremely rich and costly, abounding in gold and embroidery. Among the most striking of these costumes was that of the sailors and officers of the navy, which was of scarlet cloth richly worked with gold.
The gradual abandonment of all these gorgeous costumes by the Ottomans dates from the time the state began to feel the weight of the immense expense they caused, at the beginning of the present century. The uniforms of the army and navy were changed, and the European style began to be adopted by the Sultan and by the civil employés; and the fashion was gradually introduced among the townspeople of all nationalities.
The present costume of the upper class of Turks is a European frock-coat buttoned up to the throat, European trousers, and the fez—sole relic of the old dress. The uniforms of government officers, according to their rank, are richly embroidered, and on great occasions covered with decorations and precious stones.
The Ottomans illustrate their love of display and wealth by a proverb which says: “Akli Frengistan, Mali Hindustan, Saltanat Ali Osman,”—“Mind is the gift of the European, wealth that of the Hindoo, and pomp that of the Osmanli.”
The peasants and poorer orders of the Turks have to a great extent adhered to their primitive costume, which is principally composed of coarse woollen and linen stuffs; those among the well-to-do, who still adhere to this style of dress, make a great display of gold and silk embroidery; the turban, however, has for the most part been abandoned in the towns, and replaced by the fez, worn by all classes.
The dress of the majority of the Ulema and Softas has changed only with respect to the turban, which has been reduced and made of uniform size, and to the materials of the dress, which are now less costly than formerly and of European manufacture. Those members of these orders who belong to “La jeune Turquie” have modified their dress by the adoption of European articles of apparel which they wear under their jubbé, or pelisse.
The ancient in-door costume worn by ladies of rank consisted of a gown of cloth or damask silk, embroidered with bouquets of flowers wrought in silk, with a border of similar workmanship. Opening upon the breast, it displayed a handsome silk gauze shirt, the sleeves of which hung loosely at the wrists, surmounted by a velvet jacket, richly worked with gold thread. The round, flat cap worn on the head was covered with pearls and precious stones; the shoes or slippers were equally adorned with embroidery and jewels.
The garments that served to shelter the form of the Turkish lady from the public gaze when walking or riding abroad consisted first of a piece of white muslin placed over the head and coming down to the eyes; another and larger piece was placed over the mouth, covering the lower part of the nose, and secured at the back of the head. This covered the neck and chest, and hung some distance down the back. A cloak of cloth, silk, merino, or some lighter fabric, covered the whole person; a rectangular piece, which hung from the shoulders and reached nearly to the ground, completely hid the form of the wearer. The trousers, drawn up a little above the ankle, did not appear. The yellow morocco boot was worn under a golosh of the same color.