From the Delhi Gate of the Fort of Agra, which is grand and solid, but sadly disfigured by fanciful patterns in whitewash, you come to the Tripolia, so called from its three gates, I imagine, but it may be three any thing else. A low arcade of stone runs all round the area, and forms the Fort Bazār. It is built of red granite.
The Mahookma Masjid beyond the wall is remarkable for its five domes; it was built by Jahāngeer, and is now used as a Company’s Godown (magazine of stores).
The Madrissa, a Muhammadan College, erected two years ago by the Government, is a handsome building.
THE MAUSOLEUM OF ETMAD-OD-DOULAH.
This tomb is situated on the opposite side of the Jumna: to arrive at it, you cross a bridge of boats. It is situated in a walled garden, to which there are four gateways of red granite ornamented with black and white marble. The building stands on a quadrangular terrace of white marble, on each side of which is a marble fountain. The tomb is of white marble inlaid with precious stones, and fretwork of the same material, both internally and externally. The roof is ornamented with four turrets and a sort of dome in the centre.
Chaja Aiass, a native of Tartary, of ancient family, was raised to the rank of absolute Wuzeer by Jahāngeer, under the title of Etmad-od-Doulah, after his marriage with his daughter, the beautiful Mher-ul-Nissa, the widow of Sher Afgan. The centre room in the tomb contains the sarcophagus of the Wuzeer and that of his wife, of yellow marble, carved. The walls of the room are of white marble, inlaid, the pavement of the same. The ceiling is a mass of the most curious, the most elaborate workmanship in gold and silver, and coloured flowers, raised in compartments. What labour must have been bestowed on such a ceiling! The effect is rich, curious, and fairy-like. In one of the four apartments at the side is the tomb of his son, in another that of his daughter. The pavement is very handsome, of coloured and white marbles and precious stones, lapis lazuli, bloodstone, agate, &c. The place is quickly going to decay, no care whatever being taken of it further than to prevent any persons carrying off the marbles. The name of Etmad-od-Doulah is revered to this day in India, both on account of his own merits, and his being celebrated as the parent of the “Sun of Women.”
THE CHEEN KE PADSHĀDĀNEE, KE MASJID,
Or the mosque of the Princess of China, is on the same side of the river as the tomb of the Wuzeer, situated to the left of the Bridge of Boats. It is built directly upon the river. The effect of the reflection of the brilliant porcelain enamel with which it is inlaid must have been most beautiful in the clear stream below. The building consisted of the tomb itself, on each side of which was a masjid, and beyond each masjid was a burj, as the natives call them, a pavilion or turret. These five buildings were all of the same brilliant enamel, like finely coloured porcelain—flowers in compartments, and Arabic inscriptions over the arched doorways. The interior was of the same work, mixed with much gold. As bits fall from the ceiling the natives melt them and sell the gold. Within the tomb are some sarcophagi which have been completely destroyed by the gardeners, who live within the tomb and tie their bullocks to the graves! When the sun shines on the outside of the building the remains of the porcelain dazzle the sight. The river flows by and washes the walls. A native boy offered to bring me some of his toys, bits of enamel which had fallen from the roof; but the father interposed, and rather angrily prevented his showing them; of course, on account of the value of the gold mixed up with the enamel. This place, they tell me, belongs to the Government, by whose order they say the ceilings have been sold to merchants in Agra, by which means the two mosques and the two burj have been quite destroyed. To whom this monument and mosque belonged I could not discover. “When he died and when the worms ate him I know not[128].”
The Rām Bagh, adjoining this tomb, is a fine native garden, laid out, by the Empress Noor-jahān, in stone walks, terraces, temples, pavilions, and a building in the centre, on the side of the river.
Invalids come here to reside for the benefit of their health; I sat down under the shade of the fine trees, and spent some of the hottest hours of mid-day, reading the history of the mighty dead, and pondering over the fallen greatness of former days. It was cool and pleasant, and the scene a gay one: the garden was filled with gaily-dressed Hindoos, who came to visit the place during the fair that is annually held near the spot; the fruit sells for about one thousand rupees a year.