فاني پارکس
CONTENTS
TO
VOL. I.
| PAGE | |
| INTRODUCTION. | |
| Gănésh, the Patron of Literature—Parvutī—The Gods in Council—Chaunrīs of the Yāk—The Conch Shell—Bells used in Pūja—The Sacred Spoon—The Kālā-Pānī—The Salām | [vii] |
| CHAPTER I. DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND. 1822, April. | |
| Flying Visit to Switzerland—The good Ship ‘Marchioness of Ely’—H. M. 16th Lancers—Porto Santo—Fellow-Passengers—Isle of Palma—Divine Service—The Band—Quadrilles—The first Shark—Bristol Water—Skip-jacks—Prickly Heat—Crossing the Line—Amusements on Board—A Blue Shark—Sucking-Fish—Bonito—Santa Trinidada and Martin Vas Rocks—The Albatross—Thoughts of Home—A Calm—Shooting Season on the Ocean—Three Days of Battue—Whale-Shooting—A deep Calm—Scarcity of Water—Anchored at Carnicobar | [1] |
| CHAPTER II. CARNICOBAR. 1822, October. | |
| Appearance and Attire of the Islanders—Canoes—Visit to their Village—Ornaments of the Natives—Departure from the Island—The Andamans—Anchorage at Saugor—The Hoogly—Arrival in Calcutta | [14] |
| CHAPTER III. LIFE IN INDIA. 1822, November. | |
| Calcutta—First Impressions—Style of Indian Houses—Furniture—Mats—Arabs—Departure of the Marquis of Hastings—Fogs—Christmas-Day—Indian Servants—The Sircar—Thieves—The Hot Winds—Pankhās—Fire-flies—North-Westers—The Foliage—Musquitoes—Elephantiasis—Insects—The Chŭrŭk Pooja—Religious Mendicants | [20] |
| CHAPTER IV. RESIDENCE IN CALCUTTA. 1823. | |
| Baboo Ramohun Roy—Nāch girls—Children in India—Sickness in the Fort—The Rains—Vessels for a Voyage on the Ganges—Indian Fever—Arrival of Lord Amherst—Introduction of Steam-boats on the Hoogly—Interest of Money in Calcutta—Robberies—Jamh o Deen, Prince of Mysore—The Doorga Pooja—Images of Clay—The Races—Chinese Screens—The Dog Crab | [29] |
| CHAPTER V. RESIDENCE IN CALCUTTA. 1824. | |
| Advantages and Disadvantages—Interest never sleeps—Barrackpore—Cairipoor—The Fakīr—The Menagerie—Hyena—Change of Residence to Chowringhee Road—Mouse and Spotted Deer—Bengallee Goats—Lotteries—Trial by Rice—The Toolsee—Epidemic Fever—Burmese War—Major Sale—Haileybury—The Hooqŭ—Dr. Kitchener—Death of Lord Byron—Early Marriages—Pleasures of the Cold Season—Indian Hospitality—Knack of Fortune-making lost | [37] |
| CHAPTER VI. RESIDENCE IN CALCUTTA. 1825. | |
| A Day in March—The Furlough and Pension Funds—Bandicote Rats—The Strand—The Cutting System—Harrow-on-the-Hill—Sickness in Amman—The Golden Feet—Arrival of Lord Combermere—Bhurtpore—La Pucelle—Marsh Fever—Change of Residence to Middleton Row, Chowringhee—Fogs up to the Second Story—Burrā Bazār—Seed Pearl | [50] |
| CHAPTER VII. DEPARTURE FROM THE PRESIDENCY. 1826. | |
| Fulbertus Sagittarius—Billiards—The Recall of Lord Amherst—Zenāna of an opulent Hindoo—The Death of Bishop Heber—Affliction in the Family of the Governor-General—Appointment to Allahabad—Sale of ‘Scamp’—March up the Country—Dāk Bungalows—Fakīrs en route—The Soane River—Sassaram—Suttees at Nobutpoor—Benares—Pooja in a Hindoo Temple—Brāhmani Bulls—The Minarets—Beetle Wings—Hindoo House—Benares Hackeries—Dāk to Allahabad—Visit to Papamhow | [58] |
| CHAPTER VIII. LIFE IN THE MUFASSIL. 1827, January. | |
| First Visits in the East—Papamhow—Runjeet Singh’s Illness—Death of Lord Hastings—Lord Amherst created Earl of Arracan—Marriage of a Neem to a Peepul—The Bacäin—A Koord Arab—Visit to Lucnow—His Majesty Nusseer-ood-Deen Hyder—Lord Combermere—Kywan Jab—Presents not allowed to be accepted—Fights of Wild Beasts—Quail—Departure of Lord Combermere—Skinner’s Horse—Return to Prāg | [70] |
| CHAPTER IX. RESIDENCE AT ALLAHABAD. 1828. | |
| Sinking a Well—Hurriannah Cows—Delhi Goats—The Jumnapār—Doomba Sheep—Buffalo Humps—Water-cresses—Marrowfat Peas—Carrots—The Chatr—The Oleander—The Ice-pits—Cream Ice, how to freeze—Burdwan Coal—Indian Fevers—Mr. Bayley, Viceroy—Fear of the Invasion of the Russians and Persians—Intense Heat—Deaths in the Farm-yard—Chota Jehannum—The Verandah at Noon—Mad Pariah—Trelawny—Châteaux en Espagne—Height of the two Rivers—Death of the Bishop of Calcutta—An Hummām—The first Steamer at Prāg | [77] |
| CHAPTER X. LIFE IN THE ZENĀNA. 1828, October. | |
| Zenāna of the King of Oude—Regiment of Females—The Favourite Wife—The English Begam—The Princess of Delhi, the Begam par excellence—Colonel Gardner—Mirza Sulimān Sheko and his fifty-two Children—The Forty Princesses—Mootee, the Pearl of the Desert—Hunting Season at Papamhow—Jackals and Foxes—A Suttee at Prāg—Report of a Suttee—An Ill-starred Horse | [87] |
| CHAPTER XI. RESIDENCE AT PRĀG. 1829. | |
| March to Benares—Misfortunes en suite—The Hummām of the Rajah—Flowers of Wax and Ubruk—Return to Prāg—Storm en route—Gram—A Central Government—Thieves, Domestic—Snake in the Stable—Death in a Pālkee—Power of the Sun to change the Sex—Lord William Bentinck—Half-Batta—The Jaws of the Crocodile—The Clipper—Discontent of the Army—Recovery of the Stolen Rupees—The Gosāin—Ram Din—The Ancient Temple | [98] |
| CHAPTER XII. SKETCHES AT ALLAHABAD. 1829. | |
| The Snake-charmer—Ram Leela—Board of Works—The Hukāk—Kurand Patthar—Pebbles from the Soane and Cane Rivers—Raj Ghāt—The Dhrumsāla—The Ginee—Temple of Hŭnoomān, Ram, and Seeta—Ravuna the Giant—Bene-Māhadēo—The Adansonia—Little Jack Bunce—Encampment of the Governor-General—Ashes of a Rajah consigned to the Ganges—Christmas-boxes | [107] |
| CHAPTER XIII. REMOVAL TO CAWNPORE—CONFESSIONS OF A THUG. 1830, January. | |
| Removal to Cawnpore—Failure of Messrs. Palmer and Co.—An Appointment at Cawnpore—Removal from Allahabad—The Mowa Tree—Futtehpore—Dead Body in a Well—The Kutcherry—Confessions of a Thug | [121] |
| CHAPTER XIV. RESIDENCE AT CAWNPORE. 1830, March. | |
| The Iron-shod Lāthī—Coins of Sekunder al Sāni—Hindostanī Song—The first Thermantidote—Dāk to Cawnpore—The Barkandāz—The Station—Sand-storm—Indian Method of Washing the Hair—Pukka Houses and Bungalows—The Ayha’s Revenge—Horses Poisoned—The Isle of France—The Visionary Old Man—Influence of Women in India—Gambling—Eating the Air—The Ayha’s Trowsers—Darzees—Refuge of the Distressed—Signet-rings—The Durwān—Ganges Water—Small-pox—Grass-cutters—Beauty of a Night in India—Forgery—Qui hy?—Winged Ants and Bugs—The Moon—A Set-to—Revenge of a Sā’īs—Soldiers in Hospital—Arrak—The Chārpāī—A New Servant—Unpopularity of the Governor-General | [132] |
| CHAPTER XV. THE THUG’S DICE. 1830, October. | |
| The Thug’s Dice—Execution of Eleven Thugs | [151] |
| CHAPTER XVI. RESIDENCE AT CAWNPORE—THE DEWĀLĪ. 1830, October. | |
| Aghā Meer the Nawāb—Elephants Swimming the Ganges—Cashmere Goats—Discontent of the Soldiers—Buffaloes—Methodism—Desertion of Soldiers to Runjeet Singh—Marks of Age on Stud-bred Horses—Abolition of Sŭtēē—Pilgrim Tax—The Dewālī—The Phŭlŭ-hŭrēē Festival—Arrival of Aghā Meer and his Zenāna—Vicious Horses—Turquoise Mines in Persia—Lament of the Hindoo Women—Burning the Dead—The Mug Cook—Brutal Punishment—Plagues of Egypt—Conversion of Hindoo Women—The Races—The Riding School—Kishmish Bakhshish—Apples and Grapes from Cabul—Arab Merchants | [159] |
| CHAPTER XVII. SCENES IN OUDE. 1831, January. | |
| New Year’s Day—Meeting of the King of Oude and the Governor-General—Visit of Lord William Bentinck to Lucnow—A Native Christian—Elephant, Tiger, Buffalo, and Bear Fights—Constantia—Beautiful Buildings—Departure of the Governor-General—The Padshāh Bāgh—The Royal Hummām—The King’s Stables—The Party at the Residency—Dil-Kushā—Zoffani’s Picture—Doves released from Captivity—The Menagerie—A Zenāna Garden—Letter of Introduction to the Begams at Delhi—Gardner’s Horse—The Sorrows of the Begam | [173] |
| CHAPTER XVIII. REVELATIONS OF LIFE IN THE ZENĀNA. 1831. | |
| Pedigree of the Kings of Oude—Lucnow Mohurs—Anniversary of the Coronation—The Prime Minister—Khema-jah—Feredooa Buckht—Evil Omens—Mossem-ood-Dowla—Largesse—Hārs, Pān, and Atr—The Zenāna—Sultana Boa—Mulka Zumanee—Gosseina—Tajmahŭl—Plurality of Wives | [186] |
| CHAPTER XIX. THE RETURN TO ALLAHABAD—EXECUTION OF TWENTY-FIVE THUGS. 1831, February. | |
| Removal to Allahabad—Crocodiles—Aurunzebe’s Fort—The Old Well at Kurrah—Arrival at Allahabad—The Thermantidote—The King’s Picture and the Celestials—Pattū—Execution of Twenty-five Thugs—Cholera—The Effect on the Insane—The Arabian Leprosy—Elephantiasis—Asylums for the Blind and for Lepers—Lachhmī, the Goddess of Prosperity—Intense Heat—Early Rising—Danger of a Thermantidote—List of Servants | [196] |
| CHAPTER XX. SCENES AT ALLAHABAD—PILGRIMAGE TO THE TRIVENI. 1831, July. | |
| The old Brahman—The Triveni—The Achivut—The Pātal Pooree—Temples of Bhardoajmun—Radha Krishnŭ—Hindoo Oath—The Tulsī—The Peepul-tree—Skeleton Leaves—Lamps in the Air—Paintings on Ubruk—Impressions on Leaves and Flowers—The Mootee Musjid—The Crows a Pest—Byā Birds—Haymaking—The Silver Tankard—An Earthquake—Transferring Diseases to Flowers—Perjury—Farming Operations—Oats—Bhoodder Ram the Dwarf—The Camel—The Powder Works and Rocket Manufactory | [212] |
| CHAPTER XXI. LIFE IN THE ZENANA. 1832, February. | |
| Devotees at the Great Fair—Wild Ducks—Quail Shooting—Price of English Hounds—Colonel Gardner—Life in the Zenāna—The Grass Cutter—Dūb Grass—The Gram-grinder—The Chakkī—Jack Fruit—Duty of a Sā’īs—Arrangement of a Turban—The young Princes of Lucnow—Archery—Indian Bows and Arrows—Whistling Arrows—The Bows, Arrows, and War Hatchet of the Coles—The Pellet Bow—Witchcraft practised with a charmed Bow | [227] |
| CHAPTER XXII. ADVENTURES IN THE EAST. 1832, May. | |
| Gaiety of Allahabad—Lucnow Chutnee—Tails of the Yāk—Horn of the Unicorn—The Looking-glass Shawl—The First Flight of Locusts—An Adventure—The Rats’ Granary—Balls—Profiles—The Leaf Grasshopper—Appointed to Allahabad—Ramohun Roy—The Bottle of Horrors—Narrative of a Thug—The Quicksand—Meteors and Falling Stars—Hanging oneself for spite—The Sipahī Guard—The Ghurī—The Sitar—The Ektara—The Gynee Club—Soonghees—Colonel Gardner | [238] |
| CHAPTER XXIII. THE GREAT FAIR AT ALLAHABAD. 1833, January. | |
| Booths at the Fair—Diamonds, Pearls, Shawls, Sable, Coral—The Triveni—Suicide—Religious Mendicants—The Sacred Ginī—Consecration of an Idol—Household Gods—Rosaries—Pilgrims, Carriers of Holy Water—Snakes—Arrival of Lady William Bentinck—Visit to the Fair—Description of the [Frontispiece]—Chamelee, the Brahmanical Bull | [253] |
| CHAPTER XXIV. THE NUT LOG. 1833, February. | |
| The Hounds—A Gumuki—The Eade—Trelawny—The Rev. J. Wolff—The Nut Log—Balancing Goat—Sirrākee Grass—A Dividend—Ear-rings of Jasmine—A Rat given to a Cow—The Mādār—Enamelled Grasshoppers—The Shaddock—The Agra Gun—Corruption of Words—Variegated Locusts—Beautiful Flowers | [267] |
| CHAPTER XXV. THE CHOLERA. 1833, August. | |
| Hindū Method of Frightening away the Cholera recommended to the Faculty—Death of the Darzee—Necromancy—The New Moon—A Bull laden with the Pestilence—Terror of the Natives—The Pathan—An Earthquake—Sola Hats—Importation of Ice from America—Flight of Locusts—Steam Navigation—The Civil Service Annuity Fund—The Bāghsira—Rajpūt Encampment—Hail Storm—Delights of the Cold Weather | [280] |
| CHAPTER XXVI. THE MUHARRAM. 1834, May. | |
| The Imāms the Leaders of the Faithful—The Muharram—The Procession—The Banners—The Band—The Sword-bearer—The Mourners—Dhul Dhul—The Reader—The Fakīr—The Taziya—Tomb of Kasim—Palkī and Trays of Mehndi—Charkh-charkhī Wālā—The Bihīshtī—Camels—Elephants and Charity—The Chameleon—The Ghirgit—An Alligator—The Tiger on his Travels—A well-educated Snake—Indian Fevers—Depression of Spirit | [293] |
| CHAPTER XXVII. THE BRAHMANICAL THREAD. 1834, June. | |
| The Janao—The Fakir—The Fair—Pūja of the Cow—Cusa Grass—The Flying Fox—Air Plants—Musk Deer—Nāg-panchamī—The Snake—The Pinnace—City of Allahabad—The Pillar in the Fort—Sealing-wax—Butea Frondosa—The Dewālī—The Bower—Climbers and Creepers—The Humming Birds—The Pellet Bow—White Ants—Chintz—The Horseradish Tree—The Ichneumon—The Garden—The Bouquet—Cold Mornings for Hunting—The Moustache | [304] |
| CHAPTER XXVIII. PILGRIMAGE TO THE TĀJ. 1834, December. | |
| The Seagull—The Patelī—Chapātīs—Sujawan Deota—Burriaree Rocks—Thieves—Parbosa—Temple of Parisnāth—Darogahs—Utility of a Pellet-bow—The Cane River—The Leak—A Storm—Kalpee—Belaspoor—Alligators in their own Wildernesses—River Shells—Passage through the Rocks—A Pilot—Badowra—Fossil-bones—The Chumbal River—Bhurrage—Burning the Dead—A Woman Drowned—Cutting through a Sandbank on a Chain Cable—A Leak—White Ants—Picturesque Scenes—A Tufān—The Mem Sāhiba’s Speech—River Dogs—Presents of Sweetmeats | [321] |
| CHAPTER XXIX. PILGRIMAGE TO THE TĀJ. 1835, January. | |
| Etaweh—Moonlight Ride—The Wolves—Bird-catchers—Peacocks—The Bar of Sand—The Good Luck of the Mem Sāhiba—Narangee Ghāt—Betaizor—The Silk-cotton Tree—Fields of the Cotton Plant—The Chakwā Chukwaee—Eloquence of a Dhobee—Aladīnpoor—Noon, or Loon—Modelling in Khuree—Cotton Boats—The Ulāk—Vessels on the River—Plantations of the Castor Oil Plant—Cutting through a Sandbank—First Sight of the Tāj—Porcupines—Bissowna—Quitted the Pinnace—Arrival at Agra | [336] |
| CHAPTER XXX. THE TĀJ MAHUL. 1835, January. | |
| The Tāj Mahul—Arzumund Bānoo—Shāhjahān—The Screen—The Echo of the Dome—Momtâza Zumâni—Her Sons and Daughters—Asaf-jāh—Noormāhul—Ruins of the second Tāj—Offerings at the Shrine—The Wall—The Kālūn Darwāza—The Fountains—Melā of the Eed—The Burj—The Jāmma Khāna—The Masjid—The Bāo’lī—Tomb and Masjid of the Fathīpooree Begam—Tomb of the Akbarābādee Begam—Ground-plan of the Tāj—The Minarets—Stones used in the Mosaic—Tomb of the Simundee Begam—The Sitee Khanam—A Farewell to the Tāj | [348] |
| CHAPTER XXXI. PLEASANT DAYS IN AGRA. 1835, February. | |
| The Fort—The Mosque of Pearl—The Jahāngeeree Mahul—Mher-ul-Nissa—Selīm Ghar—The Palace in the Fort—The Dewanī Khas—Noor-jahān Burj—Zenāna Masjid—The Shīsha-Mahal—Hall of Audience—The Vault of Secret Murder—The Black Marble Slab—The Throne of Akbar—The Steam Baths—The Worship of the Rising Sun—View from the Bridge of Boats on the Jumna | [360] |
| CHAPTER XXXII. REMARKABLE BUILDINGS AROUND AGRA. 1835, February. | |
| The House of the Wuzeer—The Jāma Masjid—Tomb of Jahānārā Begam—The Tripolia—The Mahookma Masjid—The Madrissa—Etmad-od-Doulah—Cheen-ke-Masjid—Rām Bagh—Syud Bagh—Secundra—The Chamber of Gold—Miriam Zemānee—Kos Minārs | [370] |
| CHAPTER XXXIII. REVELATIONS OF LIFE IN THE ZENANA. 1835, February. | |
| Invitation to Khāsgunge—Kutchowra—The Zenāna—A Timoorian Princess—Opium-eating—Native Dishes—The Evening Party—The Beautiful Begam—Musalmanī Attire and Ornaments—Timūr-lung—Gold and Silver Beds—Atr of various sorts—Perfume of the Body of the Prophet—Dye for the Hands and Feet—Churees | [378] |
| CHAPTER XXXIV. LIFE IN THE ZENĀNA, AND CHĪTĀ HUNTING. 1835, February. | |
| Plurality of Wives—Intrigues and Hatred—Arrival at Khāsgunge—The Four Walls—Arwarī Shooting—The Pūtlī-nāch—The Lynx—Introduction to Colonel Gardner’s Begam—The Morning Star—The Evening Star—The Nawab of Cambay—The Beautiful Gardens—The Bara Deri—Rattler—Chītā Hunting—Antelopes—The Sulky Chītā—Heera Sing—Chītā Hunting attended by Native Ladies | [390] |
| CHAPTER XXXV. FATHIPOOR SICRI AND COLONEL GARDNER. 1835, March. | |
| Pilgrimage of Akbar Shāh to Fathīpoor Sicri—Shaikh Selīm Cheestie—The Jodh Bā’ī—Birth of Selīm—The Tomb of the Saint—The Gateway—A Tradition—The Temple of Magic—The Zenāna—The Pachīsī Board—The Mint—Akbārābādee Rupees and Gold Mohurs—The Elephant Minār—A Child destroyed by a Wolf—Tomb of the Jodh Bā’ī—Agra built by Akbar—Sketches of Remarkable Living Characters in India—Legality of a Marriage between a Christian and one of the Faithful—Colonel Gardner’s Letter—Letter of Colonel Tod—Insult offered by Holkar—Colonel Gardner’s Marriage—Tomb of Colonel Hessing—Cure of Influenza within the Four Walls—Death in a Steam-Bath | [401] |
| CHAPTER XXXVI. THE MARRIAGE. 1835, March. | |
| Pedigree of the Bride and Bridegroom—Reports concerning the Beauty of the Bride—Anxiety of English Gentlemen to marry into Colonel Gardner’s Family—Mirza Unjun Shekō—The First Procession—The Bride’s Dress—Necessity of Weeping—The Oily Mixture—Strict Seclusion—Dress of the Bridegroom—The Oily Mixture complimentary—The Hoolī—Bridal Songs—The Sāchak—The Bridegroom’s Procession—Nāch Girls on Platforms—The Menhdi—The Grand Display in the Bride’s Procession—The Parda—The Prince dyed with Hinnā—Midnight the Fashionable Hour for Dinner—Wedding Dishes—Silvered Food—Conclusion of the Day—Mr. James Gardner—Mulka Begam highly respected; her will is law | [420] |
| CHAPTER XXXVII. THE BURĀT. 1835, March. | |
| The Bridegroom fights for his Bride—The Grand Procession—Superstition of the Prince—Bridal Attire—The Bride’s Consent—Signing the Contract—The Nose-ring—Dress of the Bride—The Prince enters the Zenāna—He beholds his Bride—He carries her off—Colonel Gardner’s Distress—Fanī Bhū’a—The Bride’s Dower carried in Procession with the newly-married Couple to the Prince’s Tents—A Singular Custom—Pān | [437] |
| CHAPTER XXXVIII. THE CHĀOTREE. 1835, April. | |
| The Chāotree—Timūrian Dance—Churees—Finale of the Wedding—Jhanee Khanum—The Zenāna Doll—Jealousy of the Natives—Meals of the Slave Girls—Tara, the Pretty Slave—Conduct of English Ladies considered extraordinary—Poppy-heads—Devotion of Native Women to their Husbands—Illness of Colonel Gardner—Burial-ground of the Family—My Departure—Death of Colonel Gardner, and of his Begam—Orders of Knighthood—Remarks on the Muhammadān Religion, and the Punishments of the Grave | [447] |
LIST OF PLATES
TO
VOL. I.
| No. | To face page | |
| 1. | [Frontispiece]—Gănésh, to face the Title. | |
| 2. | Introduction—The Camels | [vii] |
| 3. | The Albatross | [8] |
| 4. | Carnicobar | [14] |
| 5. | The Sircar | [21] |
| 6. | The Chŭrŭk Pūja | [27] |
| 7. | Pūja of the Tulsī | [43] |
| 8. | Bengali Woman | [60] |
| 9. | The Ice Pits | [77] |
| 10. | Temple of Bhāwanī, and Suttees, Alopee Bāgh | [95] |
| 11. | A Dhrumsālā, Bene Mahādēo Ghāt | [107] |
| 12. | Adansonia Digitata | [116] |
| 13. | A Kutcherry | [121] |
| 14. | Hindōstanī Song | [133] |
| 15. | A Barkandāz | [135] |
| 16. | The Durwān | [142] |
| 17. | The Thug’s Dice | [151] |
| 18. | Elephant Fights | [173] |
| 19. | Pedigree of the Kings of Oude | [186] |
| 20. | Lachhmī, the Goddess of Beauty | [207] |
| 21. | The Grass-cutter | [231] |
| 22. | Hebrew Hymn | [270] |
| 23. | The Imāms the Leaders of the Faithful | [293] |
| 24. | The Tāj | [348] |
| 25. | Ground-plan of the Tomb of the Tāj | [357] |
| 26. | The Tomb of Akbar Shāh | [374] |
| 27. | Tomb of Shaikh Selim Cheestie | [403] |
| 28. | Pedigree of Colonel William Gardner | [420] |