Joy and pleasure reigned on board the vessels, and the fresh air failed not also to have its beneficent effect upon me, for continual motion and variety are the principal conditions in the South, on which depend the good humour and feelings of internal life. Thus, the present expedition promised me pleasure and strength; and to enable me to make my ideas and thoughts speak livingly from my breast, without losing myself in a dreamy state of reclining inactivity; and to permit me to see, observe, and compare a strange world with its insipid surrounding scenery, without delaying writing my Journal till the next morning.
But the prospect of attaining our aim—viz., of seeking and finding the sources even beyond the equator—appeared to me at the beginning from the constitution and composition of our expedition, to be doubtful. The vessels were to follow one another in two lines, one led by Suliman Kashef, the other by Selim-Capitan; but already, when sailing into the white stream, this order was no longer thought of. Every one sailed as well as he could, and there was no trace to be discovered of nautical skill, unity of movement, or of an energetic direction of the whole. How will it be, when the spirits, now so fresh, shall relax through the fatigues of the journey?—when dangers which must infallibly occur shall arrive, and which only are to be met by a bold will directed to a determined point?
However, these gloomy impressions could not last long; the scene around was too picturesque, too peculiar, too exciting. On the left, the flat extended land of Sennaar was gently clothed again with copsewood and trees; and on its flooded borders rose strong and vigorous Mimosas (sunt and harasch) out of the water, high above the low bushes of Nebeck and Kitter. In the same manner the left shore was wooded, from which we were at a tolerable distance, owing to the north-east wind. Behind its girdle of copsewood and trees, reaching just as far as the waves of the majestic stream in their annual overflow give their fertilizing moisture to the soil, the bare stony desert extends upwards, as it shews itself at Omdurman, in profound and silent tranquillity. So much the more animated and cheerful was it on the river.
The decks of the vessel, with their crowd of manifold figures, faces, and coloured skins, from the Arabian Reïs who plies the oar, to the ram which he thinks of eating as the Paschal Lamb; the towering lateen sails, with the yard-arms, on which the long streamers, adorned with the crescent and star, wave before the swollen sails; the large crimson flags at the stern of the vessel, as they flutter lightly and merrily through the ever-extending waters; the singing, mutual hails and finding again, the ships cruizing to and from the limit fixed for to-day;—everything was, at least for the moment, a picture of cheerful, spiritual life. With a bold consciousness, strengthened by the thought of many a danger happily overcome, I looked beyond the inevitable occurrences of a threatening future to a triumphant re-union with my brothers.
Nov. 24th.—Our yesterday’s voyage was soon ended. We landed on the right shore, about two hours’ distant from Khartùm, near the tomb of Moha-Bey, overshadowed by two luxuriantly-growing harash-trees. They stood in the water, though the year before, on the 16th of November, they were far removed from it: thus giving four feet and a half higher water, and affording me the consolation of thinking that we shall penetrate further, although I perceive no great haste in any one, for we might have gone on very comfortably, and without any danger, the whole night. At sunset yesterday it was 22 degrees Reaumur (at our departure 25 degrees).[4] The appearance of the scenery had hitherto not changed.
The left shore appears entirely flat, equal in height to the water-line, to which the distance adds certainly something. Yet, on the right shore, the river from the Shudder Moha-Bey, has thrown out or deposited downs, which enter, in an undulating form, into the deserted lake territory.
The Kalàklas (Arabs) dwell, from these two trees on the right shore, in two Kabyles, under Sheikhs Bachit and Abugleff. The Hüsseïnudis (whose Sheikh, Abu Bekr Wollet el Mek, shares with his father the fame of valour, and of whom the Turks speak with respect,) extend to the left shore, opposite to the Kalàklas; they pay, however, Tulba, (tribute) as do all the Arab races of the White River, up to the Shilluks.
We sailed to-day in the morning at sunrise, but soon halted again on the right bank of the river, at the Arab tribe of Abdallah Ozerrs, where we took in wood. Another unnecessary delay! This might have been done yesterday. From the Abdallah Ozerrs we came to the Gulamabs and Hussein-Abs (Ab, abbreviation of Arab). At noon we reached, with a few deviations right and left from our course towards the south, the rocky hill of Auli, which rises to the height of some two hundred feet on the right shore, a day’s journey from Khartùm. From the numerous fragments found in the vicinity, being a conglomeration of chalk and limestone very much washed and brittle, this hill evidently belongs to the limestone formation. The name is derived probably from the Arabic auel; because this is the first high ground met with on the White Stream. It is also called Gare-Nebih, from a Sheikh buried there, and from whom also, conformably to the Arabic custom, the tribes dwelling there have taken their names.
Opposite to Gebel Auli, over the left side of the river, is seen another and more extensive elevation, bearing the name of Mandera. These rocky hills are of granite formation, and seem not to exceed a height of three hundred feet above the level of the stream. The word Mandera has here no more a Greek signification than Auli, although it still means, in Káhira, the lower part of the house, where the stables generally are to be found; in which, certainly, its analogy with sheepfold and a monastery is very close. But it here signifies a height upon which there is no water. On the left bank of the river are two tribes, which live in friendship and cultivate their durra fields in common. Higher up are the Gemulies, and beyond these the Mohammedies, belonging to the race of Gare Nebihs, whose Sheikh lies buried on the western plain, and who here possess both shores.
The Gebel Mussa soon shewed itself on the left, two hours’ journey from Gebel Mandera, also a hill of rocks (hornstone formation), which has received its name from the holy Sheikh buried there. Therefore, here also prevails the tasteless custom which in Europe has displaced so many radical names of places in history, tradition, and popular custom. The old name of this mountain is Brame; in which at present I can see no meaning. Both of these tribes dwell on the right and left shores; where likewise are found venerated graves of the family of Sheikh Mussa, to whose progenitor Mount Mandera belongs. Their present Sheikh is called Mussa Wollet Makbull,—a sensible, brave man. Rapidity of the stream one sea-mile; depth four to five fathoms and a half. Yesterday, when we sounded the stream, there was little or no current, which in fact decreases with the depth. This morning, at sunrise, it was seventeen degrees Reaumur; at noon thirty; and in the evening, at sunset, still twenty-seven degrees in the shade, at the open window.