Twelve o’clock, five miles, 22°, and at three o’clock, 26° Reaumur. On the left shore, close to us, is the hill of Giràb el Esh, (sack of corn), which name has also been given to a Sheikh of the Shilluks living there, to denote his corpulence, a very rare thing in that country. We were pretty close to the right shore, the extreme edge of which rises some three feet above the still high water. The earth is dark, and here occurs the first precipitous shore we have seen on the white stream. The marshy world springing luxuriantly on the left shore, checking the stream, appears to press the current to the right side of the river, and by that means the water is always deeper next to the latter side. Marshes, with the usual phenomena, soon shew themselves again in the primitive bed, properly speaking, of the stream, so that we were forced again into serpentine windings.
On the right shore, close to the mountain which we had seen on the 2nd of December, at sunrise, and which is the Defafaungh so much spoken of in Sudàn, high dome-palms, with small heads, rise over the tamarind-trees. The mountain itself is bare and rocky, and, except one precipice, descends towards the river without any steep declivity. So likewise the mountains we had hitherto seen had always a gentle descent towards the stream, a proof that the waters have not here undermined or compressed the ribs of the mountains towards the river, as is the case in Nubia and on the Rhine. Defafaungh stands there alone, like the mountains Taka, an island, as it were, in an extensive and dry basin.
At noon we sailed past the rocky hill, four or five hundred feet high, and went W.S.W. without my having seen through the telescope the ruins and pyramids (Taralib) of brick (Top ahmer), supposed to be there. At all events, I shall take care to lie to here on our return voyage. Soon after appeared, on the left shore, a hamlet consisting of about twenty huts, shaped of bee-hives. The people did not shew themselves, because the good name of the Turks has spread even thus far. The mountain is seen, from the raised deck of the cabin, rising in the landscape; and we perceive a grassy marsh-island extending from the right shore, in the form of an arch, into the river, and forcing it into a direction W.S.W. In this inlet lies the village I have mentioned, and immediately afterwards a second one. Suliman Kashef had spied out something with his eagle eyes: he went ashore to seize some sheep, whilst shots were fired in the air to frighten the owners. We all followed his good example.
At five o’clock we sailed from hence W., and then W.N.W.; made three miles, and followed the course of the river to S.W. As the sun sets, we seem to sail through a blooming park. On the right shore are isolated dark tamarinds, shining like gold, magnificent masses of creepers, and bowers of flowers on a green, grass ground, the blooming lotus shining through them. We extend our gaze across this island over the country, on the right shore, and perceive only a few tamarinds. The sun having already set, we turn to W.N.W. The sky, somewhat clouded, throws splendid masses of shadow, completing the charming landscape, upon the island, round which the ships moved in a line, grazing its cheerful verdure. On the right shore the interior country is somewhat elevated, a circumstance which we noticed at the abovenamed rocks. Whilst our vessel sails N.W., the others before us double the bend of the left shore; towards the S.
Night appears; the river turns again N.W., and the north wind, though scarcely blowing, drives us towards the left, against a vessel, strenuous rowing being unable to prevent this misfortune. Contention between soldiers and sailors: no subordination, no nautical skill. The ships strike every moment one against the other; then follows an intolerable running here and there of the crew—pushing, throwing down, hoisting, and bawling; in short, a frightful hurly-burly, because one wants to sail before the other; and my indifferent tailor-captain remains quietly at his labour, and sews so much the more industriously! The Kurd Abdu Elliàb gives himself airs in vain; although he had told me shortly before this, that no officer in the whole regiment was so feared as himself, yet the soldiers will not listen to him, but fight with the sailors. I, for my part, can do nothing since Feizulla Capitan, who had nominated me, in his absence, as his Wakil (deputy), was on board. At last we proceeded again till twelve o’clock at night.
4th December.—An hour before sunrise, we advanced, with a N.E. wind, S.S.W., without sails; halted here and there to wait for two ships tarrying behind, which had run upon the very shallow ground on the right side of the river, and were obliged to put back in order to get into the course of the stream; it was 15° Reaumur: from nine to towards eleven o’clock S.W. On the right two villages, with huts like beehives, at which we saw three Sürtuks (periaguas) raised on a tree. In the forest we perceive many Shilluks, who seem to look upon us as neither enemies nor as friends. Immediately above this we lay-to at the left shore, to wait for the two ships which we now saw at a distance. There are no sunt-trees here; on the contrary, several luxurious tamarinds, which thrive in a damp soil. The Nile is at this place more than two hours’ broad, including the Grass Islands. At twelve o’clock, again towards the W., then W.N.W., and at 1 o’clock S.W., which direction we followed till sunset at six o’clock in the evening, and with a very faint breeze.
On the right shore the more elevated land was planted with isolated dark green tamarinds, a lively contrast to the blue sky; the left displayed at a distance a bare high shore, on the margin of which stood a few trees, and before them a grassy sea extended, so that the river has, with this, a breadth of an hour and a half. The rapidity of the stream was so inconsiderable here, that the log gave no result. A shining, white, water-road lay before us; yet, from a calm having set in, we could only advance but slightly with rowing. The venomous gnats which, as well as large camel-flies and small wasps, have made their appearance these three days, become more abundant, and are said to be found in such quantities further south, that we shall neither be able to eat, drink, nor sleep.
CHAPTER V.
A STORM. — TOKULS OR HUTS OF THE SHILLUKS. — THE TALLE, A SPECIES OF MIMOSA. — THE GEÏLID. — THE BAMIE. — UEKA. — WILD RICE. — OMMOS. — THE SHILLUKS A LARGER NATION THAN THE FRENCH! — IMMENSE POPULATION ON THE BANKS OF THE WHITE ARM OF THE NILE. — THE HABAS OR FORESTS. — A TURKISH JEST! — LEECHES. — DISEMBARKATION ON THE LAND OF THE SHILLUKS. — DESCRIPTION OF THE TOKULS. — CONDUCT OF THE BEDOUINS TOWARDS THE PILGRIMS TO MECCA. — THE MURHAKA. — MANNER OF CATCHING GAZELLES. — SÜRTUKS OR CANOES OF THE SHILLUKS. — REFUSAL OF THE KING OF THIS NATION TO VISIT THE VESSELS. — TREATMENT OF HIS AMBASSADORS AT KHARTUM. — THE BAOBAB TREE. — DHELLEB PALMS. — WINDINGS OF THE RIVER. — OSTRICHES. — HILLS OF ASHES OF THE DINKAS. — RIVER SOBAB.