At four o’clock the cry is “El hauer galàss” (the wind has ceased), and we halt on the right shore of the reeds, where another dreadful night of gnats awaits us. Where it has been possible, and I have thought of it at the moment, I have planted date-stones, or thrown them, when passing by, on the inundated shores; for this beneficial tree never presents itself, and may, indeed, never thrive here again.
15th December.—We remained yesterday evening actually till after sunset in the reeds, and our vessel was full of musquitos. I mentioned previously these insects as being of two distinct species, and not as male and female. I am confirmed in my former opinion; for in the nights of the 12th and 13th December the smaller kind was so prevalent, that I could only find, after much searching, some bodies of the pearled long-legs on my bed. We therefore suffered again from the usual plague from evening to this morning at eight o’clock, although we had left the reeds. The river had here three fathoms and a quarter in depth, and a rapidity of about one mile and a quarter. We waited this morning for the kaiass, left behind as usual, when it was rowed, owing to its large, clumsy oars; and being a broad-built ship of burden, it had cost us already a pretty time during our voyage. It was not till half-past eight o’clock that a slight east wind set in, and we move slowly on towards S.W., again to W.S.W. after a quarter of an hour, and at nine o’clock to the S., and make two miles.
We remark, on the whole, few land-birds; however, we have seen various species of storks, among which was one of a moderate size, unknown to our crew, with a dark-red back shield. We notice pelicans here and there, and I think what a feast these catchers of fish must have when the Nile, in the dry season, partly deserts the reeds wherein we have observed scarcely any fish but of one species, with flat heads, striped. I had seen already here a dark-brown species of swallow, about twice the size of our house-swallow, and remarked their very short legs, which prevent them from soaring again in the air when they have fallen down in short grass, similar to what I saw in Taka. At ten o’clock we make three miles, and at eleven o’clock four miles, for the east wind was blowing fresh, and we sail towards S.S.E.
The river has resumed its former breadth of some three hundred paces, and the vessels run against one another, according to the dear old custom, always breaking something or getting stuck together. Our captain, nevertheless, does not fall into a passion: the vessel may crack and shake for what he cares; for his sewing-needle appears to him of more importance, and he handles it with an air of determination, as if all his work must be done within the very next hour. Every one wishes to avail himself of the wind; consequently we rush by on reeds, or right into them, and out then pours a myriad of gnats like clouds.
We ought to have the log continually in our hands, with these eternal windings of the river, as the vessel more or less sails according to the ever varying stream, and with the very same winds. Even the most detailed chart can afford but little to be relied upon in such a circular dance of the stream, although the engineer may confine himself to assume as the direction of the course of the river, not the real shores, but the ephemeral borders of reeds. At noon E.S.E., when the wind, passing over into N.E., is somewhat contrary, if the stream does not soon make again another bend. We lend a helping hand with oars to the sails, and the river winds again on the right towards south. Low reeds with tufts of high reeds; little woods of these large crown or paper rushes, and tracts of ambaks.
As the river appeared for a time to hold on its course to the south, being exceedingly weary after these sleepless nights, and not able longer to keep my eyes open, I sank back as it were involuntarily upon my bed, but told my men, however, to wake me without mercy, when the river took another direction. We remained till Asser (three o’clock in the afternoon), in a southern direction, when, covered with perspiration, I awoke of myself, for the cooling N.E. wind had subsided, as usual, after mid-day, and was entirely stagnant. I had dreamt of being very comfortably on my travels in Germany with my brother; and this dream had the effect of consoling me in this miserable position, and of making me look forward with joy to the future. During my sleep they had seen a swimming-bird, said to be as large as a young camel, with a straight beak like a pelican, but no crop under it: they had not shot it, lest they should awake me, and because they thought that this bird, unknown to them, would appear again. Whoever knows the manner of comparing things in this country, will know also how to appreciate the size of this bird.
We lie on the reeds, wait for the ships tarrying behind, and as usual delay to take to the middle of the river, till all the holds of the vessel are full of gnats. At the distance of about an hour we see to the right shore the margin of firm land with tokul-tops, whilst the grass-sea extends still to the other side, upon which, however, in the far distance clouds of smoke ascend. The country here may, on the whole, lie lower, whereby the objects upon it remain under the horizon.
16th December.—The sun ascends, and we sail slowly towards it with a faint N.E. wind. I drew two thin cowls, which I had had made in Taka as a protection against the sun, over my face, to be free at least from gnats at the sides, leaving just room enough in the front for my eyes and pipe. These insects torment us up to nine o’clock, morning: at night they are always singing and buzzing, and they have even contrived, this evening, to pierce through to the fleshy part of my face. The skin on the parts stung by them, principally the hands and feet, begins to itch so that one could scratch it to pieces.
We soon go S.E., and endless swarms of swimming birds come to meet us, and appear to fly down with the river. The pelicans also follow the very same direction, but rest every moment upon the water. It appears that these birds are fonder of live fish, and leave the dead ones to birds of prey, and on that account seek for the inundated parts of the lower course of the stream. In a very short time we go S.W., but immediately again, at eight o’clock, S.E. The wind passes over to the E. in order to gain strength. Like yesterday afternoon, the right shore, from N.E. to S.E., is now covered with tokul-tops, partly collected together as villages, partly lying singly on the line of the horizon, upon which also some dhellèb-palms may be remarked.
To follow the shore of the river, and to define the limits of the bed of the White Stream, over which it here and there rolls, the principal thing would be to follow the line of the villages and old trees, for these determine the peculiar marks of high water, elevated by the river itself. From this high water we might, perhaps, be able to ascertain the mean breadth of the river. But such a difficult journey by land will be certainly, for a long time, an intricate problem. The Turks themselves have also here, without perhaps wishing it, failed in the first impression; so that from “children of heaven” they have become “white devils,” in the eyes of the people. Therefore we see on every side pillars of smoke ascending, which are to be considered as signals of approaching danger, according to the statement of our heroes; whilst the kindled reed-straw, or the high grass of the savannah prairies, spreads its smoke horizontally. Innumerable birds are perched round, in the ambaks; among them a number of turtle-doves are cooing very peaceably, reminding me more of the great Campo in Constantinople than of the lower shores of the Nile.