To the east, we see on the right shore mists of smoke creeping over the ground like Cain’s sacrifice, for they cannot rise out of the vaporous atmosphere. There is also there a village, pushed back, as it were, by the reeds struggling forward, and somewhat elevated above the marsh region. The crew are very tired, and we halt above the lake till three o’clock.
A small hamlet lies in our neighbourhood, and I see again cattle dragged near to us. Now, at last, we shall have enough meat. Large garlands of meat, cut in narrow strips, are passed already from one rope to another, to be completely dried in the sun, according to the usual custom in the Land of Sudàn. It is afterwards rubbed small on the murhaka, and with the ground uèka, used for a favourite broth, to be poured over the hard meal-pap (Asside), or over pancakes. This abundance of meat must be followed by injurious consequences even to these Saturnian stomachs, for the crew generally are not accustomed to it.
I have again that lethargy, threatening, like the day before yesterday, to turn to fever,—a thing that makes me the more uneasy, because the Febris tertiana is not only very tenacious, but is also here fatal. Last night I was delirious, fell asleep late, and awoke at the moment of departure; the sun, just getting up, fell like an enormous torch on my face, when I unwittingly threw back the cloak with which I had covered it, on account of the gnats. At the noise of the sailors and soldiers, I fancied that all was on fire, and thought for a moment of the powder-room under me, without being able, however, to rise.
At four o’clock we went E. by S., and I saw that the river wound more southerly before us, so that we did not advance, and heard that we must wait for the ships remaining behind, and lay to at the left shore. I had the fever till about sunset, but not in a violent degree. From my window I perceived, close to me, a large lake, over which the setting sun hung like a ball of blood. I raised myself up slowly on my legs, and really did not stand so weakly on them as I had imagined when lying; but the perspiration was not by any means subdued. I hoped, however, to recover this afterwards, and had myself carried ashore. This setting foot upon land exercised a peculiar influence, as after a tedious voyage. The main point in these countries is not to lose courage, but to drag about one’s sickly body so long as it can go; to stumble, fall, rise up again,—anything, only not to remain lying in bed in fearful despair.
The dark margin of the Haba extended in a half circle between the setting sun and the water, from N.W. to S.E., like a faithful though somewhat distant attendant of the stream sunk down by his Neptunian majesty. The lake, which runs parallel with the river, and appears to have its greatest extension from S.S.E. to N.N.W., and is only divided from it by a narrow dam, four feet and a half high. The tree-islands in this lake, the foundation and the ground of which were concealed by the water, increase the picturesque and heartstirring impression by their dark shade and play of colours contrasting with the lake, glowing as if with fire! The landscape towards the west is very much confined by the semicircular margin of wood around the wide bay. An endless number of morass-birds swim or stand around on the shallow spots, and find here the richest prey; therefore, comparatively few birds are seen on the shores of the Nile, which is here called “Kiati,” which is only a deviation from Kidi or Kiti, as it was hitherto called. It became dark about seven o’clock, and we went on S.E. Shortly before this bend, there is on the left a village;—and now once more a pastoral hamlet, near which runs a gohr of little breadth to N.E., probably connected with the lake seen yonder on the right shore.
We also notice a village wherein Icthyophagi may dwell, for we perceive no smoke from herds near it. We cast anchor, according to our custom, in the middle of the river, to be more secure from a surprise of these numerous free negroes; for our sentinels, in spite of the bastinado, creep into their cowls and sleep, that they may hear and see nothing of the swarms of gnats. We are now the more upon our guard, because we have heard from these Keks that a nation dwelling up the Nile, behind the Elliàbs, and who are said to exceed the Shilluks in population, declared, after the former expedition, that they would rather die with their powerful king than permit us to pass. This intelligence made a very sensible impression upon the Turks and Franks. Suliman Kashef, on the contrary, wishes only to see this heroic king at a distance, and looks, with a smile, at his long gun. As I know his disposition, and must fear precipitate violence on our side, I try to make him understand that that king, if he is determined to die, may first send at us an arrow or a spear. If they will be our enemies and take to force, well and good. Even though our soldiers may shoot badly, yet fifty negroes must fall at every volley, for the vessels are our bulwarks, and they will come blindly to the attack.
Suliman Kashef also quoted passages from the Koràn. At these quotations, by which the commonest Turk feels himself authorised to aspire to be a sultan, there came to my remembrance the beautiful admonitory discourses which the French left to the brutal people, during their glorious presence in Egypt. These began with passages from the Koràn, in the Arabic, Turkish, and Persian languages, and also in the French, thus: “Au nom de Dieu, clément, miséricordieux, et très saint maître du monde, il fait de sa propriété ce que lui plaît, et dispense à son gré de la victoire.” Then, “que les armes ne servent à rien contre la volonté de Dieu. Egyptiens, soumettez-vous à ses décrets, obéïssez à ses commandemens, et reconnaissez que le monde est sa propriété, et qu’il le donne à qui il lui plaît.” Or “tous les biens viennent de Dieu; il accorde la victoire à qui il lui plaît, &c.” They end generally in this manner, “Que le salut et la miséricorde divine soient sur vous!” We laugh because they come out of the mouth of a Frenchman, with whom, at that time the Lord God was as good as deposed; but in the country itself we comprehend the deep policy of these phrases. Wonder and astonishment seize the traveller who recollects the Egyptian expedition, when he reads the inscription of the conquering heroes on the island of Philæ.
CHAPTER X.
SHEIKH DIM. — CLUBS OF THE KEKS AND CAPS SIMILAR TO THOSE OF THE ANCIENT EGYPTIAN PRIESTS. — RAPACITY OF THE CREW. — TRIBUTARY LAKES. — HEIGHT OF THE SHORES. — THE TRIBE OF THE BUNDURIÀLS. — DUSHÒÏL, THE KEK, ON BOARD SELÌM CAPITAN’S VESSEL. — HIS SIMPLICITY. — TOBACCO PLANTATIONS. — THE GREAT SHEIKH OF THE BUNDURIÀLS. — FISHING IMPLEMENTS OF THIS TRIBE. — THEIR TOKULS, AND GIGANTIC SIZE OF THE MEN. — ANTELOPES OF THE ARIEL SPECIES. — APATHY OF THE CREW, AND INDIFFERENCE AT THE LOSS OF THEIR COMPANIONS. — PHILOSOPHY OF A NATIVE. — SINGULAR CONTRAST BETWEEN THE FEATURES OF THE SHEIKHS AND THE OTHER NEGROES. — NATION OF THE BOHRS. — THIBAUT’S BARTER. — REED-STRAW ON FIRE, AND DANGER TO THE VESSELS. — FATALISM OF THE TURKS. — GREETING OF THE NATIVES: THEIR SONG OF WELCOME.