In observing the difference of these negroes among themselves, of whom the question can hardly be of a higher or lower grade of civilisation, and the features by that means distinctly impressed, we are involuntarily led to the idea that the families of these chiefs were either immigrating and conquering races, or the remains of the aborigines; and that, having diminished to solitary families, they have preserved among themselves their peculiar type, which is similar to that of the Caucasian race.
In a shooting excursion, I found it here also confirmed that the surface of the earth is lower behind the shores than the shore itself. This is especially seen by the vessels, which disappear even to half the mast at a little distance behind the shore. Nevertheless the ground was elevated again in the distance like the rim of a basin, whereon we remarked trees, evidently denoting an earlier shore. Water stood here and there, around which numerous marsh-birds had collected. I could not, however, get within shot of them, owing to the swampy nature of the soil.
Shortly before noon we continued our voyage with the rope, but the strong south-east wind worked so much against us that we advanced little or nothing. Besides, the crew do not seem to wish to run in perspiration and scalding heat, for to-day is Friday, and therefore the Turkish Sunday.
At twelve o’clock, a large herdsmen’s village on the right shore, with black giants, to whom the ant-hills serve as watch-towers, and where they look even taller, being contrasted with the horizon. This is the nation of the Bohrs. Here and there are seen men waiting on the shore, holding cattle by a rope, to sell them for beads.
The ox is said to be sacred amongst them. They may perhaps love and prize their cattle, to which they have but little else preferable, and may prefer the bull as the founder of the family, but that is all. After half an hour, where the river winds from S.E. to E. and N.E., is on the right a pastoral village. The nation of the Banduriàls stands here collected with a present of cows, but it was not accepted by us. From N.E. round a sand corner on the right, to S.S.W.
Here the meat-eaters, who will not be contented till they catch some disorder, cannot resist the temptation to receive some cattle. As in some parts of Belled Sudàn, copper wire is used for the decoration of spears, I had brought some with me rolled on a stick, and here and there cut off into rings. I exchanged such a ring for a red club, not made of ebony, but of some other heavy wood. The black stuck the ring immediately on his finger, half covering it; and Thibaut had no sooner remarked this wire ring, than he tried to procure it from the black by exchanging any number of beads for it, whilst my servants stood by and laughed not a little. He shewed it afterwards on his own finger, and thought that it was gold, and that we should now gain endless treasures for our beads, because the people, fortunately for us, did not know the value. I did not wish to disturb his innocent wishes, and was silent till the ring changed colour, when it afforded us a subject for laughter. There was but little to purchase from the people, because they, with few exceptions, brought long reed-stalks in their hands, instead of any weapons, as a sign of their friendly intentions, according to the orders of their king, Biur, who had done so at our request. A pretty young woman, with tolerably long hair, stood at a little distance, holding a spear in her hand.
At two o’clock we leave the sand-bank; immediately numberless birds settled there, and collected themselves for a banquet on the remains of the slaughtered beasts. We sailed S.S.W., a short tract, and then round the left to S.E.; here we saw, at half-past two o’clock, towards E., a large pastoral city, and people, and dogs,—the latter in unusually large numbers. From the mast:—on the right, to S.W., a lake; likewise one over the village to S.S.E.; and beside this village, five others up to the Haba: on the right shore, neither the one nor the other. The thermometer 29° at three o’clock. The above-named village of herdsmen, whose huts, like flat bee-hives, consist of reeds and straw, is followed by the huts of the women, built with a little more care, and also higher, having a square entrance, and on the top another thick irregular layer of reeds, so as to make the bent stalks of reeds heavier, and to keep off the rain.
The river goes from here E.N.E. For some days past, glass beads have been exchanged for ivory. I also, for the first time in my life, am now turning to mercantile speculations, and pleasing myself with the idea of the astonishment I shall cause to my brother. Five o’clock, E.N.E.; the north wind is good; five miles, whilst we only made three shortly after our setting out. At sun-set S.E. by E.; a smell of fire, and the smoke of a village, on the right side, came to meet us. We are soon convinced, to our horror, that the reed-straw near us is in full blaze, and it is fortunate that the river here does not make any curves, or we might be directly exposed to the flames. On the right is a large village, with peculiar tokuls, enveloped in black clouds of smoke, over which the sun dips as if into a dark sea of blood.
If we consider how such a reed conflagration extends with incredible swiftness in a violent wind, we shall see that the fire is not alone to be viewed as a purifying element of the marshy region, but also as the greatest means of destruction of the numerous forms of reptiles, and indescribable numbers of insects prevalent here. I have already convinced myself of this by the remains of consumed snakes. The river winds at the corner occupied by the long village, to S.W.
Two calves swam in the water, not being able to scramble up the precipitous shore again. The men had no sooner asked me whether they should take them, than I, as the momentary wokil of Feïzulla Capitan, gave them permission, in order to return them at a subsequent period when we came again to the natives; for there was so much meat on board, that it disgusted even part of the crew. The reïs tried with all his might to throw overboard the beasts just saved, because they were not to be slaughtered, and he wanted to have the hides; this, however, I very soon managed to prevent.