Five o’clock.—To N. On the left a little hamlet, with tokul-roofs, which stand on short stakes, and may be used perhaps only for the cattle during the rainy season. The small tokuls raised on stakes serve partly as sleeping-places, partly as store-houses; these are seen in every village on the White River. Half-past five o’clock. At the left we see the end of an island, which must be very large, for it goes up, at least, to the last-named island, and may run behind it to the left shore. On the left there are three villages, but the trees have entirely disappeared. On the right five villages, and then a large and small island; behind them a sixth village. The river makes a beautiful bend at this place from N.N.E. to N. Splendid large shady trees stand out like giants over the other part of the forest, and from deck we perceive a hamlet under them, and also two villages at some distance from the left shore. The Haba, properly speaking, displays itself here of a blue colour in the distance, extending from W. to N., whither we let ourselves be drifted also by the tranquil river.
A large herd of cows comes down to drink at the stream, but we pass proudly by, and the Arabian children do not murmur because they are going to their dear home.
The report that the nations below had blocked up the river to cut off our retreat, having turned out unfounded, may likewise have contributed to this unusual contentment. I remarked evidently how glad they were that no crowds of natives were collected at the numerous villages, near which we were so often beneaped. On the right, the end of an island displays itself; this, at all events, therefore extends behind the upper island of the right shore. Over two little islands we see, on the right side, the tops of several tokuls. At sunset we go from N.N.W., in another bend to E. A long water-line spreads before us, whilst the river bends to right and left; we accommodate ourselves again slowly to rowing.
Half-past six o’clock. At both sides two long islands end, their commencement having been concealed from us by others. Near the pastoral village, on the left side, we hear the cattle and sheep returning home, and see the smoke widely extended, as a protection against the gnats, for their nightly rest. That is much too inviting! Near a small green island, in the centre of the stream, which spreads here majestically like a lake, we cast anchor, and the vessel turns its bow towards the west, to Mount Nerkanjin, the outlines of which stand out only faintly from the darkening sky. It is a lovely evening.
CHAPTER V.
RIVER BUFFALOES. — COMICAL APPEARANCE OF THE NATIVES. — WILLOWS. — SPECIES OF STRAND-SNIPES. — MODESTY OF THE WOMEN, AND THEIR APRONS. — THE LIÈNNS. — ORNAMENTS OF THIS TRIBE: THEIR TOKULS. — THE SERIBA OR ENCLOSURE TO THE HUTS. — ENORMOUS ELEPHANT’S TOOTH. — LUXURIANCE OF THE SOIL. — THE COUNTRY OF BAMBER. — DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES. — MANNER OF CATCHING ELEPHANTS. — ROYAL CRANES. — SPLENDID BARTER. — TRIBE OF THE BUKOS. — STOICISM OF AN OLD NATIVE. — SLAVES. — HIPPOPOTAMI AND CROCODILES. — THE TSHIÈRRS. — THE ELLIÀBS AND BÒHRS. — DESCRIPTION OF THE FORMER TRIBE: THEIR WAR-DANCE.
31st January.—Before sunrise we set out, and had 20° Reaumur; yesterday and the day before, 19°. We had scarcely advanced three paces, when we stuck fast on the sand, because the crew wanted to let themselves be drifted at their ease. We therefore row out of the lake-like bay to N.N.E. Men and women stand smoking on the shore, and offer their pipes and other effects, but all their signs and calling are in vain, and the fear is general that the river may be too shallow. The stream issues broadly from the left side behind an island, to which a smaller one joins itself. Eight hippopotami are enjoying themselves in the space between the two islands. Their enormous heads have the closest similarity, at some distance, to those of buffaloes, only they are larger, and have no horns, and therefore the Arabic expression Gamùss el Bah’r (river buffalo) appears more suitable than that of hippopotamus. The name of G’zint is little used here, although it may be the ancient indigenous one.
Whilst we are going at half-past six o’clock, N.N.W., we observe on the right, also, a Nile arm to N.E. On the left a summer village, and sleeping places, with reed walls, and small tokuls, running quite to a point, and funnel-shaped, with plastered walls. On the right, two hamlets, and on the left a reed islet; before it a broad arm enters the land to W., and seems to form a large island, for we go here N. by E. The stream, which had narrowed previously to four hundred paces, loses little of its breadth by these means. Before us floats again a green little reed-island; we leave it at our right. The forest has again retreated, and on the left, also, there is nothing seen above the ground, except here and there the top of a tree. The shores are arid, and very refreshing is the large tree on the right, with its horizontally twisted boughs, like an isolated gigantic oak, behind which the house-tops of a large village peep forth.
A number of ash-grey men set themselves to race us on the right shore from a little village; they fife, sing, and clap their hands, dance and jump, especially the young ones. On the left also the flat sand-shore is covered with ash-grey people. The song on both shores is kept up in the very same tune and time, which they alternate by strophes. There are hardly any weapons and ornaments to be seen on these men. Cleanliness, the red colour of the skin, and luxury, seem to disappear with the neighbourhood of the Sultan’s palace.