In the meantime I had found a solitary fragment of a Burma, red outside and black inside, made in the same manner as those of the Shilluks, and I roved about the mountain from S.E. to N., where several blocks of rock were lying below which had fallen from the mountain, and seemed to be porous basalt, or tophus (the latter most likely, from the regularity and fineness of the pores). These blocks lay scattered far and wide to the east, having sharp corners like those of a red-brown colour, which stand forth as pilasters from the west side of the mountain itself. They appear, however, to have been thrown by violence, rather than rolled to this distance. These blocks, which formerly covered the mountain here as thick crusts of lava, and under which still other crusts may lie, are broken off nearly in a horizontal line towards the river, and might, therefore, together with their clefts, easily suggest the idea of ancient circular walls or fortifications, to the Arabs and Turks. Perhaps it is from this cause that the Defafaùngh is called also Berba; for Birbe means a ruin in Arabic. We found there a cave—perhaps there are several—formed of stones piled up one over the other, equal in size to the one at the top on the south-eastern side of the terrace, and inhabited by wild beasts, as we concluded from the hyænas’ dung; on the north-eastern side we remarked several holes and fissures in the rocks, occupied at day by owls, and at night by the guinea-fowls. We saw the former and heard of the latter from some Dinkas, after we had assembled under the shade of large tamarind-trees, on which already there was ripe fruit.
The Dinkas came, laid down their spears at some distance, greeted us with their “hababa,” and sat by our side in a friendly manner. No sooner did they see the dead guinea-fowls than they told us, that they kill them either with stones, or by catching them in the evening in the holes and cavities of the rocks. They were presented with some tobacco at their request, contrary to the usual custom of the Turks, who do not shew such favour to these “Abit.” They thought the “bumb” (report) of guns was “affiàt” (good and fine), but they were afraid of it, like all Negroes, and so much so that it appears laughable to us; but what ideas may they connect with the simple report, and what species of spirit or devil may they suppose to be raised in the gun!
There cannot be much worship of trees here, for the neighbouring villages have not any shady trees; although these splendid tamarinds, with a trunk of five to six feet thick, and dense foliage, to the foot of which moreover the water reaches, as we see by the foot-prints of the Hippopotami, which serve me as an arm-chair, certainly deserve care and gratitude. But there was very little cleanliness at the place where we were sitting (to be silent of the ground being trod smooth by men), and the boughs of the trees did not shew any marks of consecration; there might have been, perhaps, about one thousand head of black birds sitting on them. We proceeded afterwards along the dry margin of the lake to the two layers of rocks projecting from the ground, wherein we recognise basalt, also porous, but displaying great hardness on breaking off the upper crust. I dare not decide whether this lake be not an extinct crater choked up by the Nile, similar to the Laacher See on the Rhine.
Girard, who has examined my specimens, says indeed truly,—“The mountain is clearly an extinct volcano. It rises probably from a basaltic plateau, for basalt, olivine, and pyroxene appear on it, and red-brown porous lava, with large circular hornblende crystals, as well as dark blue tophus, formed from clear porous scraps of lava and fine ashes, seem to cover its declivity. The tophus, as well as the lava, does not contain any vitreous feldspar, yet pumice stone shews itself under them, but all the products of the volcano prove that it is only converted basalt.”
Everything was therefore collected here to form a frontier-fortress; but perhaps it is reserved for another age to see a new Nigritia flourishing under the auspices of an enterprising man, who has money, and will undertake men-hunts. Certainly, by that means, the whole country would be deprived of the free and independent negroes; who, notwithstanding their poverty, will not enlist for gold and silver. They even prefer to remain in the old state, for they love old customs, even if they have seen or been obliged to have better ones. One example will suffice for many. Several Dinka slaves deserted from Fàzogl, who had been made craftsmen, taking with them all the implements of their trade. They appear, however, to have done the latter, not on account of the greater usefulness of such tools, but merely for the sake of the iron, to make spears or bracelets of it: this, at least, our soldiers and Dinkas affirmed. Some of the deserters were also shipwrights, but yet we have never seen a boat, although it would be so useful to them in their marauding expeditions.
The Dinkas accompanied us now to our ships, bringing milk and butter with them; but we found that they mix cow’s urine with the former, which was quite sufficient to disgust us, but not so our servants. The discovery of the desertion of two Dinkas from my vessel delayed the continuation of our journey; their village, parents, and relations were near this mountain. We had a long parley with their countrymen, who continued faithful for some time, and would not deliver up the two soldiers. At last, when all the threats were of no avail, and we had ordered our soldiers to get their arms ready, some one managed to entice with a good grace three sheikhs on board Selim Capitan’s vessel, whom we had shortly before clothed. We bore off from land, and the poor Dinkas, who were too few to make war against us, saw themselves compelled to give up their brothers, who were immediately then laid in irons; because, according to Turkish custom, these kidnapped men, although they have not taken the oath of allegiance, are subject to French military discipline. But it was contrary to Turkish usage to restore the shiekhs without further extortion, and they would certainly have been carried to Khartùm, if no Franks had been present,—who speak, however, frequently in vain. Even the voluntary slaves were put in chains until they were far distant from their native country. I begged for mercy for the poor prisoners, but in vain: we then made a short course and halted, for good reasons not at the shore of the Dinkas. Thermometer up to 32°.
CHAPTER XII.
LANDING IN THE TERRITORY OF THE BAGHÀRAS. — DESCRIPTION OF THEM. — THEIR HOSTILITY TO THE DINKAS, AND MARAUDING EXCURSIONS INTO THE COUNTRY OF THIS TRIBE. — CURIOUS POSITION IN WHICH THE LATTER TRIBE STAND. — MOUNT NJEMATI: EXAMINATION OF IT. — A SHRUB-ACACIA. — APPEARANCE OF ELEPHANTS AND LIONS. — GEOLOGICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE MOUNTAINS. — MONKEYS APPEAR AGAIN. — MOHAMMED ALI UNDER THE FORM OF AN HIPPOPOTAMUS. — ISLAND OF ABU. — THE HASSANIES. — A HIPPOPOTAMUS KILLED BY SULIMAN KASHEF. — SHORES OF THE NILE COMPARED TO THOSE OF THE MISSISSIPPI. — EL AES. — THE KABBABISH ARABS. — HEDJASI. — THE MOUNTAIN GROUP OF ARASKOLL. — CONDUCT OF SULIMAN KASCHEF TO A SHIEKH AND ARABS. — BEST WAY TO TREAT THE TURKS. — THE DOWNS; THEIR NATURE. — INTELLIGENCE OF THE DEATH OF SOLIMAN EFFENDI AND VAISSIERE. — APPROACH TO KHARTÙM. — ARRIVAL, AND MEETING OF OUR AUTHOR WITH HIS BROTHER. — CONCLUSION.
9th April.—Our direction yesterday was generally N; to-day N. with deviations to the East. We landed early at the left shore, near the Baghàras, who received us on all sides in a friendly manner, and displayed here real hospitality,—with a little craft and self-interest. The mighty bond of language, race and religion, knit immediately reciprocal confidence, which begot eloquence, and lively questions and answers. The herdsmen, part of whom had handsome physiognomies, surveyed our vessels. Whilst their horses remained close by, they brought goats and sheep to us, holding them by a rope, a kurbàk in one hand, and a long lance and three javelins in the other; and seemed, on the whole, to be a more cultivated and cleanly people, in spite of their dirty ferdas and kittels, which, being originally of a white or blue colour, were not strongly contrasted one with the other. Their countenance was expressive, with their thick eyebrows and sparkling eyes; the hair being twisted more or less to the back of the head in a cue, allowed the beautifully arched forehead to stand out, but it is often difficult to tell the sex of the young persons.