(4) disconnect the dash at the two supporting brackets which rest on the frame;
(5) loosen the steering post bracket, fastened to the frame, when the dash and steering gear may be removed as one assembly—the wires first having been disconnected;
(6) take out the bolts holding the front radius rods in the socket underneath the crank case;
(7) remove the four bolts at the universal joint;
(8) remove pans on either side of cylinder casting and turn off gasoline, disconnect feed pipe from carburetor;
(9) disconnect exhaust manifold from exhaust pipe by unscrewing large brass pack nut;
(10) take out the two cap screws which hold the crank case to the front frame;
(11) remove the bolts which hold the crank case arms to the frame at the side. Then pass a rope through the opening between the two middle cylinders and tie in a loose knot. Through the rope pass a "2x4," or a stout iron pipe about ten feet long, and let a man hold each end; let a third man take hold of the starting crank handle, when the whole power plant can be lifted from the car to the work bench for adjustment.
| Connecting Rod Bearings—how adjusted? | Answer No. 33 |
Connecting rod bearings may be adjusted, without taking out the engine, by the following method: (1) drain off the oil; (2) remove plate on bottom of crank case—exposing connecting rods; (3) take off first connecting rod cap, and draw-file the ends—a very little at a time; (4) replace cap, being careful to see that file marks correspond, and tighten bolts until it fits shaft snugly; (5) test tightness of bearing by turning engine over by the starting handle. Experienced mechanics usually determine when the bearing is properly fitted by lightly tapping each side of the cap with a hammer; (6) then loosen the bearing and proceed to fit the other bearings in the same manner; (7) after each bearing has been properly fitted and tested—then tighten the cap bolts and the work is finished.