On Thursday, 1st September, I left Mr. O’Connor’s after breakfast, with the intention of pursuing my journey, but calling at Capt. Percy’s, he said it was his birth day, and that I must spend it with him, {306} and that he had sent for Mr. O’C. for the same purpose.
This was truly an agreeable day to me, it being devoted to social converse without ceremony, while the well regulated and liberal domestick arrangements of the amiable and well informed lady of our friendly host, recalled to my mind the elegant refinement I had so often enjoyed in the society of her fair countrywomen, during my residence in Scotland. To her engaging native manners, Mrs. Percy adds the advantages of a long residence in London, where she seems to have grafted on her native stock, such exotick knowledge only, as could farther expand a mind, already adorned both by nature and art.
Next day, Friday, 2d September, my worthy host and hostess, after exacting a promise from me, that I should make their house my family’s home, until fully provided in one myself, should I choose that part of the country for my future place of residence, accompanied me on my way, fording Bayau Sarah, which is about thirty yards wide, to the plantation of Mr. Sweezey, a mile distant, where a child being dangerously ill of a fever, Mrs. Percy had for several days before, and even nights, aided the disconsolate mother in the duties of nursing, while her humane and friendly husband prescribed and dispensed the necessary medicine in the absence of the physician—none living nearer than six or eight miles. Indeed he adds the gratuitous practice of physician and apothecary to the office of chief magistrate, and he is equally useful in each department to the surrounding country, while his amiable lady performs the part of a real Lady Bountiful, with judgement and true benevolence.
Capt. Percy rode with me about five miles farther, to shew me a tract of land he had in his disposal, on which he wished me to settle, and another, the property of Mr. Cochran of Bayau Pierre, which had {307} been offered for sale. He then bade me adieu, and I went on alone, passing Mr. Sterling’s and doctor Bruin’s, and proceeding to the southward four miles farther, I arrived and stopped at doctor Flowers’s.
The doctor was absent, but Mrs. Flowers did the honours of her house to me, with the most pleasing attention, and he returning home in the evening confirmed the kind welcome I had received, and to which I was in no other way entitled than, in addition to my being a stranger (which about Bayau Sarah seems to be a general passport to hospitality) I had a letter of introduction from my valuable and respected friend, judge Bruin, whose name, where he is known, opens every door.
The next two days were spent chiefly at doctor Flowers’s, and in riding about the neighbouring country, during which I visited Mr. William Barrow, who has a very handsome house, a noble plantation of about four hundred acres of cotton all in one field, and a hundred and fifty negroes. I also accompanied the doctor to pay my compliments to Don Thomas Estevan, lately appointed commandant of New Feliciana, with full powers to act for the governour. He received me very politely, and appeared to be a man of pleasing manners, and good general information, although I was informed that he had risen from the rank of a private in the army, to his present situation. That, however, is a very common thing in the Spanish service, where merit is sure of being rewarded, without the aid of money or great connexions, notwithstanding the character for pride which that nation is taxed with.[214]
On Monday, the 5th September, I proceeded on my tour, crossing Alexander’s creek, an inconsiderable stream, and having a good road to the eastward, through a forest abounding with that beautiful and majestick evergreen, the magnolia or American laurel, six or seven miles to Mr. Perrie’s. He was {308} absent until supper time, previous to which I amused myself with walking about his fine plantation, and the best garden I had yet seen in this country. A letter from doctor Flowers insured me a friendly reception, and I passed the night here.
Mr. Perrie is a native of Fifeshire in Scotland, was a millwright, by which profession, aided by an advantageous matrimonial connexion, he now possesses a hundred negroes, and is alcalde of the quarter—yet he would gladly remove to the land of his nativity, if he could do it conveniently.
Tuesday 6th, a good road through open woods brought me in six miles to Doyle’s, from whence, fording Thompson’s creek, (a fine little river sixty yards wide) I stopped at Horton’s tavern, on the opposite side. Mr. Murdoch, the proprietor, from whom Horton rents the house and adjoining plantation, but who reserves a room for himself, having seen me at Mr. O’Connor’s, politely asked me to stay breakfast, after which I proceeded.
All the tract of country from Pinckneyville to near Thompson’s creek, being watered by Bayau Sarah, or some of its tributary streams, is most generally known by the name of the Bayau Sarah settlements, and is part in the United States and part in the Spanish territory. It is esteemed as the finest soil, the best cultivated, and inhabited by the most wealthy settlers, of any part of the Mississippi territory or West Florida, but the land appeared to be liable to have its soil washed away, so as to lose it entirely in a few years after clearing it, on all the declivities. It is on the whole however, a charming country.