I left Paris, and passing Millersburgh, and one of the first settlements, called the Irish station, four miles further, just before entering the barren country three or four miles on that side of Blue licks, I spurred my horse past Nicholasville court-house and tavern, where I counted above a hundred horses, fastened under trees. I was induced to hasten past this place, as the voters in that sterile part of the country did not appear quite so peaceable and orderly as those I had seen in the morning at Paris, and I was not sure but some of them might have been moved by the spirit of whiskey to challenge me to run a race with them, or to amuse the company with a game of rough and tumble, at both which the backwoods Virginians are very dexterous.
I arrived at May’s-lick about sunset, much fatigued with my ride of fifty-two miles, in one of the hottest days of the season. I was very feverish, yet I forced myself, though without appetite, to take a light supper, after which I bathed my feet in warm water, and retired to bed, where I passed a sleepless night in high fever and excessive thirst, which being no ways abated at the first dawn of day, I arose and called my host to prepare my horse, being determined not to sink under my indisposition, while capable {178} of making the smallest exertion. My flushed countenance, black and parched lips, and frequent nausea, alarmed my host so as to induce him to dissuade me to proceed, but finding me decided he prescribed a strong infusion of tansey in Geneva—the bitterness of which a little relieved my thirst, but did not prevent its return accompanied by nausea and excruciating headache, in which situation I arrived at Washington at seven o’clock, and returned my horse to its hearty old owner with the young fat wife.
I reposed a while on a bed at my friendly host Ebert’s, who as well as Mrs. Ebert, was truly kind and hospitable.
Apropos—That last word just reminds me of a remark I have made in the course of my tour. I had letters of introduction to some very respectable merchants in different parts of this state, which were productive of some general advice and information, but without my being invited further into their houses than their shops, or (as they are called) stores; or without having it in my power to excuse myself from tasting their wine, cider, whiskey, or any thing else. I must except Mr. Hunter of Frankfort, from this general remark, and the polite invitation of general Russel on the road, was a specimen of the hospitality of the country gentlemen, which I have heard much boasted of, as brought with them from Virginia; so that I cannot absolutely tax Kentucky with a total want of that virtue.
After taking a couple of basons of strong coffee without milk, I found myself much relieved, and proceeded on foot to Maysville, where I arrived in something more than an hour. The exercise of walking had restored my perspiration, and after two hours repose at my host January’s, I arose in a state of convalescence, sat down to the dinner table, and forced myself to partake of a chicken—after which I devoted the remainder of the day to quiet and reading {179}—took a cup of coffee, retired early—had a good night’s rest, and felt no more of my fever.
I am the more minute in describing my indisposition, partly to warn other travellers, to avoid excessive fatigue under a hot sun, and partly to shew the good effects to be derived from fortitude and patience under most diseases. I am persuaded that had I obeyed the dictates of my inclination, and my landlord’s advice at May’s lick, I should have experienced a most severe, and probably fatal attack of highly inflammatory and bilious fever—but by bearing up against it—by perseverance in exercise and rest alternately—checking my strong desire for liquids, and using only such as were proper for me, and that moderately, and especially by refraining from every thing which might have the smallest tendency towards keeping up the heat of the blood, with the exception of the tansey bitters at May’s lick, I precluded the necessity of either medicine or professional advice.
FOOTNOTES:
[133] See Durrett, Bryant’s Station (Filson Club Publications, No. 12; Louisville, 1897).—Ed.
CHAPTER XXIX
Hospitality of farmers—Primative dispensation of justice—Ellis’s ferry, and Powers’ tavern—Squire Leadham—West Union—Allen’s—A North Carolina cotton planter—Brush creek—J. Platter’s—A thunder storm—A hunter’s cabin—Old Lashley—Marshon’s.