[A Gate of the Court of the Oranges, Seville Cathedral][12]
[A View in Toledo][34]
[A Street in Toledo]
From an etching by Chas. A. Platt
[46]
[A View in Alcantara][56]
[Charles V.]—1519[78]
[A View in Aranjuez][90]
[On the Darro]
From an etching by Samuel Colman
[100]
[A View of Granada][122]
[A Window in the Alhambra][134]
[The Aqueduct near Granada][144]
[The Garden of the Generalife, Granada][164]
[The Interior of the Mosque, Alhambra][178]
[A View in Segovia]
From the engraving by D. Roberts, after the painting by J. Cousin
[190]
[A View in Granada]
Engraving by James B. Allen from a drawing by D. Roberts
[212]
[Christopher Columbus][222]
[The Port, Quay, and Cathedral, Malaga][230]
[The Gate of Barcelona]
From an etching by Charles A. Platt.
[254]
[Queen Isabella Dictating her Will]
From the painting by E. Rosales in the National Museum, Madrid
[266]
[Fernando the Catholic][278]
[Portrait of Queen Isabel the Catholi]c[300]
[The Town Gate of the Carmen at Zaragoza]
(Left as a permanent memorial of the Siege.)
[310]
[The Harbour of Cadiz][322]
[Tower and Hotel of Siete Suelos, the Alhambra, Granada]
Photo by Valentine
[334]
[General View of Ronda]
Photo by J. Laurent, Madrid
[340]

Old Court Life in Spain

CHAPTER I
Fiesta of the Corpus Domini

HE time is early summer; the sky an unbroken sphere of blue, as deep and smooth as a turquoise, canopying the blanched domes and pinnacles of the cathedral and illuminating with ineffable splendour the elegant galleries of the Giralda tower. No shade anywhere, on plaza, patio, or river bank; nothing but a blazing sun, making golden motes; the thinly leaved palms scarcely leaving a reflection on the hot earth.

It is the Fiesta of the Corpus Domini. The whole city of Seville is astir, the procession is passing, Don Pedro following bareheaded, attended by Don Juan de Mañara, Ferran de Castro, Don Garcia Padilla, and many others, under a gorgeous canopy, and so delicately fair and flaxen-haired does he look, he is more like a young saint than a king.

Behind him walk the archbishop wearing a jewelled mitre, and the chapter in rich copes and robes, followed by the knights of the military orders of Santiago and Calatrava, the cross upon their breasts, armed cap-à-pie, with nodding plumes, each knight with his flag and cognisance borne by page and esquire; a magnificent procession, set off by the sombre background of monks, penitents, choristers, and chanting canons intoning the offices of the Church.

Now all who have seen a religious procession in Spain will understand the splendour of it. The mediæval magnificence of the robes, wrought in plaques of solid gold and incrusted with priceless jewels, the brilliant glow of sacred banners, the sheen of the steel caps and armour; and above all the amazing glitter of the gigantic dolls (or pasos), larger than life, dressed in the most gorgeous robes, representing the Saviour, the Virgin, and saints and martyrs. To the sound of trumpets, drums, and cymbals they advance in a blaze of tapers and torches, carried on platforms of wood, through the narrow streets, over which silken awnings are drawn from house to house, every soul present, from the king down to the last of los pobres, prostrate on the stones.