I have just fallen in with a dozen of the Life Guards, with their brass helmets, &c. I think before they have lived to October they will have a very philosophical idea of a vacuum—one pound of bony, lean beef will occupy but a little of their long stomachs. I suspect our good allies, the Spaniards, will think that we have sent them a regiment of Don Quixotes, and the horses from present appearances may in a little time make no bad Rosinantes. Five or six of these tall, six feet high men were mounted on mules going to Almedia, to get iron; I pitied them to-day as they were bargaining for a bit of dear cheese and some dried chestnuts in the market. They have some spirit, however, and will not enter the staff mounted corps, a new thing, considering it to be a sort of police, and declaring that they would rather be police at home as before than here, if they are to be police at all. This corps of staff horse is to be two hundred, and to be composed of volunteers from all regiments. Officers do not hitherto take to it, but very good-looking men have volunteered in general; none from the hussars, I hear.
Monday Evening, 17th.—The dinner yesterday went off famously, very well managed in the tent, and very comfortable. Lord Wellington was supported by Marshal Beresford and General Sir Lowry Cole on one side, and by General Castanos and Sir T. Graham on the other; and then all the staff of the three Generals, Wimpfen, O’Lalor, Alava, &c., with the aides-de-camp; the Portuguese Quarter-Master-general, and other staff, Lord Aylmer, Lord F. Somerset, Marquis of Worcester, Lord March, and all the heads of departments. Almost all were with stars, medals, Portuguese orders, or something distinguishing. If I were in the American General Harrison’s army, perhaps I might get an honourable mention, like his good friend Charles Walker, the Judge Advocate-general, who was of such use in the corps of spies. Then we had Mr. Joe Kelly, of the Life Guards a famous singer, whom I recognised as having heard at Shrewsbury races, and he gave us some good songs; and we “hip! hip! hipped!” &c., to the grandees. I was much entertained at the etiquette observed between the Marshal and General Castanos, who should go into the tent first: at last they went in side by side, as other great men have before determined that knotty point. Castanos seems very easy and good-humoured, and willing to give way, and even to have a little fun, but he is very old. All the fashionables were at the review this morning near Espeja, and a very fine sight it was. Between five and six thousand of the élite of ours, and of the Portuguese troops; the line near three-quarters of a mile long, two deep, and they marched in line near half a mile over rough and smooth, and then changed their front three times, and at last passed in review admirably. The German hussars, commanded by Colonel Arentsfchild, were on the right, in excellent style, and beyond them a brigade of artillery: the day was beautiful, and the scene upon the whole very striking. Lord Wellington is indefatigable. He goes six leagues to-morrow another way to Friexada, to review the English hussars, the 10th, &c. He looks, I think, a little fagged and anxious.
Guinaldo, May 18th.—On my arrival here at eleven o’clock to attend the Court-martial, I found the President, General Vandeleur, had stayed with Lord Wellington to go over to the review, and had sent an order for the Court to assemble to-morrow, the 19th, instead of to-day, of which he had forgotten to give me any notice. If we march on Thursday I shall be at my wit’s end, and it is so provoking to lose a whole day thus, just at such a moment. He is so hospitable, civil, and good-humoured, that, though very much inconvenienced, I cannot be angry.
The fourth division march from Escuao to-day. The light will, I suppose, move with us. The second division are now moving along the Sierras de Francia, the mountains in sight of us here. This air must be aguish; five of the officers and a great number of the men of the 52nd, though such fine-looking fellows, are attacked by the ague when doing no work, and in fine weather. At Frenada most of the sickness was among the natives.
Lord Wellington, at the review yesterday, was on one of his new purchases from General L. C. Stewart. He gave four hundred guineas for the two, and for this two hundred and fifty—a gentleman who has gained some plates in England, and has a name. It is a very pretty animal, but is as troublesome in regard to neighing as my black. They were answering each other all the morning. Indeed this neighing gives quite a character to a Spanish review—it is heard more than the trumpets. I met in my way here about twenty Spanish grenadiers, who, I understand, were part of a treasure escort. They were very fine men, and were well clothed. Individually they greatly surpass the Portuguese in appearance: tall, straight, well-limbed, and with good young countenances. As to their discipline, or how they will stand, I cannot say; but such men can only want good officers to do anything. In the review yesterday, besides the two regiments of Caçadores Portuguese, there was the 17th of the line Portuguese: they really marched and went through the evolutions very nearly as well as our own men. The men, however, are naturally mean, shabby men in general, like the pictures of the Queen’s family at Frogmore, which you must remember. The officers look much better than those of the Spaniards, and seem most of them to know more of their duty. The Spanish men, as men, independent of discipline, are wonderfully superior to the Portuguese; and yet we have seen, from want of that knowledge of acting in a mass, and total mistrust of their leaders, how inferior they have hitherto been.
The Portuguese people, though they do not talk so well as the Spaniards, or look so well, have shown much more practical spirit. When the French passed through the Spanish towns or villages, the alcalde went to meet them, the people remained quiet, submitted to the exactions, and the French in general treated them tolerably well in consequence, for they thus got food and forage. In the Portuguese villages, on the contrary, when the French last entered Portugal, almost every inhabitant sacrificed his house and property, and fled, according to orders; and thus it was that the French were so plagued and puzzled for food, and provoked to destroy the houses as they did.
May 19th, Six o’clock, evening, Head-Quarters, Frenada.—Just returned from Guinaldo in time for the post. My Court met at twelve. We tried the man by one o’clock. I wrote the proceedings fair, got them signed, and here I am, very hungry, and find that every one has dined, for Lord Wellington began to-day to dine at three o’clock, instead of eight. We do not march to-morrow, perhaps not till Saturday.
Frenada, May 21st, 1813, Friday.—At last, to-morrow morning we all break up for the march. I go, as a civil department, by the route enclosed; I shall, therefore, see nothing of the greater part of head-quarters for a fortnight. Dr. M’Gregor goes my way; but who else I know not. Indeed Dr. M’Gregor wishes to go to Oporto, and perhaps I may have the whole road nearly to myself. I am told that the road is pleasant; at least it is new all beyond Almeida. The light division is to march to-day. The second are not far from Tamames by this time. Tamames is, I believe, the military head-quarters on the second day’s march, the 23rd. The fourth division passed the Douro, I believe, yesterday; the others have already done so, and in two or three days the main body of the army will be at Braganza, Outeiro, and Miranda de Duero; and the light and second divisions and head-quarters on this side of the Douro.
Some of Hamilton’s Portuguese in the second division are so ill supplied, that Lord Wellington has, it is said, threatened the Marshal to send them in the rear if they be not better clothed and fed. He says he would rather be without two or three battalions, than have them in such a state as these are. Indeed, he seems either not quite to trust the Portuguese, or they cannot be supplied; for he leaves a full battalion, I hear, at Abrantes, and one or two elsewhere, saying he has Portuguese enough in proportion. He seems in good spirits, but looks worn and anxious. The pontoons have crossed the Douro, so now I do not know where they are to be laid down, unless to let the second and light divisions and head-quarters pass over, whenever necessary, or to bring over the others, if the French should collect.
The French have hitherto always judged of the situation of the main body of the army by that of head-quarters: they were thus twice taken in last year. Before the siege of Badajoz, Lord Wellington had moved away nearly the whole of the army before he stirred, and the whole of the head-quarters were not protected against two thousand men. This deceived the French then, and I hope will now, but they are on the alert; at Salamanca constantly on the qui vive, and ready for a run, &c. The Commissary here has already trusted a man with money to go and collect forage, &c., at Salamanca, before the French are gone. Everything is now alive. General Graham, I believe, commands at Miranda de Duero, or at least will very soon. General Picton has the ague, and is too ill to take the command of this division yet, but remains with it. I thought him looking very well; but there is something in this climate which does not suit the English at all, even when quiet and living well. The natives have their annual ague fit, and seem to think it a part of their existence: they are rather unhappy when it does not come as usual. Lord Wellington’s cars with the heavy baggage are off.