Next morning (the 11th) at four o’clock, we proceeded to Orthes to breakfast, and got there, six leagues, by eleven o’clock. There we sat down to a déjeuner à la fourchette. We then, at one, started again, and before six got to Hugemont, where we dined again, and slept four leagues further.
On the 12th, at seven, we set out for this place, through the heavy sand in some places, and over a ruinous bridge; we did not arrive until twelve. All along the road we found everything in a state of the greatest activity for the supplies of the army—everything in requisition. I longed to have some of the Spaniards with me, to teach them what was to be done in this way. The love of coffee is much diminished, and the lower classes are excluded from it by the high price of that and of sugar. Other things are cheap, and we got our dinner, beds, and all for five francs a-head each night. Our mules were very fine, and each had a name, which we soon learnt, by the constant dialogues of the old driver and his boy, one of the two latter always running by the mule’s side, as there were no reins to the other four in front.
We met with every attention and civility here, were in time to stop the other five officers, and we are now all in officers’ billets, the same as the French officers themselves, and have received for our days of march the same as they do on the march,—a captain three francs, a colonel five, a lieutenant two and a half, &c. I am at the house of the principal engineer (from Paris) of some works going on here, Monsieur de Beaudre. Great improvements are nearly completed in this little departmental capital: a new wide stone bridge of easy access, instead of an old narrow Gothic one, and an open space cleared around it; a new Prefect’s palace, with departmental offices, &c. A new chapel, new official houses, and much private repairs, are in progress: this is very unlike Spain. I breakfast alone in my billet on my tea, which I have discovered here, as the others have only meat and wine. I dine with the rest—and to please them, but against my will—at six; we have a good cheap dinner at four francs each. The poor officers do not know what to do with themselves. I immediately applied to my patron for books, and he gave me the range of several. After a play or two of Racine’s, and a few of the Contes Moraux, I have attacked La Harpe’s Cours de Littérature at the Lycée, and am as yet well pleased; I walk as much as my rheumatism permits. Thus goes time; but I suffer much—I feel as if I had been broken on the wheel.
Poor Henry is more bewildered than ever, but flatters himself that he shall soon learn French. If he could copy the activity around him, he would be wonderfully improved. We are here full of the Moniteur’s victories, and the little check the French appear to have sustained latterly under Vandamme, in Bohemia.
Before I go to bed I get my cup of coffee, a small one indeed, for my ten sous, at the café, read the news, and then retire home. This place is very full, from the wounded being in part here; from the exertions making as to supplies, for we have two hundred cars here in a day; from some artillery drivers being here, and from the constant passage of everything to and from the army. The Commandant has been particularly obliging. We have a mile round the town to walk in, and are never troubled by any one.
20th September, Mont de Marsan.—Alas, poor Seymour!—[Hiatus.]
On the 21st, at Mont de Marsan, arrived my mules, pony, and baggage: no letter. I gave up all prospect of exchange, and was stupidly ill and tranquil. The lady where I was quartered, was very attentive and good-natured, and I had begun my literary course, and had made up my mind to my fate. On the 22nd, however, at nine, came an order for us all to set out at eleven for Bayonne again. We did so, had some little misfortunes, overturns, &c., but got to the Chateau Vieux, at Bayonne, on the 25th September, and had the honour of being confined in the same room where Palafox had been for three months, and all the great Spanish prisoners—the Duke of Gravina, Prince of Castel Franco, &c. We staid there, seven of us, until the 1st, in anxious suspense—the room too noisy for reading, and I too ill for it, so we played whist, and killed time in that way quietly. At five o’clock on the 1st, when at dinner, came an order for Mr. Jesse and myself only to set out at six for St. Jean de Luz, in the dark. We got a coach at six, the only vehicle to be had; and I packed all my baggage, and mounting Henry and my Portuguese on the mules, we arrived all at eleven at night, at the Police at St. Jean de Luz. We were sent to an inn for the night, then the next morning (the 2nd) taken to Count de Gazan, at ten. I found him very civil, had much conversation with him for an hour, breakfasted with him, and at twelve we were all packed off with an escort for Endaye, to be sent over here.
The gens-d’armes took us first to Count Reille, whose quarters were half a league on from St. Jean de Luz. He sent us on to General Maucale, who was half a league further. He gave us a fresh escort, and sent us round the end of the lines, down to the water side at Endaye. All very civil in every way. At Endaye, about four, we were with some danger sent across, mules and all, in a little flat-bottomed boat to Fontarabia to the Spanish outpost. There also much civility, but much delay. At five we got to Irun with a Spanish escort, were taken to General Frere, found him at dinner—very civil. I then went to General Stopford; he was at dinner. No quarters to be had, so I sent my baggage on here, but got some dinner. At eight, came on in the rain here: found General Graham; very kind. He gave me a bed in his quarters, and some tea. Breakfasted here this morning; baggage gone to Lezaca; I am to go there in half an hour. I have grown very thin, and am in very crazy condition, but must get patched up at head-quarters, and go to work again. This last month has been like a dream. I hear there has been much difficulty about my exchange; but it is now over, I am happy to say, and Lord Wellington has been very kind. I hope to do something for my fellow prisoners when I see him.
Count Gazan asked me to get for him the following print or caricature to complete a collection he has. Will you do your best to find it, and send it out if possible. The Count’s description:—
“Une caricature qui a paru il y a douze ou quinze ans à Londres, au sujet d’un voyage que fit dans cette capitale Le Grand Rabbin Juif d’Hollande, dans l’intention de reformer la manière de vivre des Juifs de Londres dans ce temps là.”