The people of the district once petitioned the Amir to make a bridge over the river, and to ensure the free communication which would benefit the people on both sides, a bridge is badly wanted. The Amir, who was averse to making any fixed structure which might benefit some future enemy, decided on having a pontoon bridge made; but the men he put in charge of the work being altogether inexperienced, their efforts were made short work of by the river, and the idea was abandoned.
I once suggested a scheme to the Amir of taking advantage of the river for carrying freight between the Jelalabad district and India, and such a scheme is quite feasible; for, by cutting a deep channel in the wider portions of the river, and blasting away the rocks which cause the whirlpools and other dangers to navigation, the journey down to India could be made easy, and steam tugs could be employed for drawing barges up on the return journey. At present pack-animals are used, and the cost of freight every year is a large item to the Government, and for several months in the year the heat of the lower country between Jelalabad and the Khyber, and consequent high death-rate among the pack-animals, prohibits the carriage of anything but very necessary articles, which must be brought up at all costs. The Amir was at first disposed to have the scheme gone into, but eventually he let the matter drop, as he did all schemes which did not offer immediate reimbursement.
The country between Jelalabad and the Khyber is well cultivated, and there are many villages on both sides of the river; but a good deal of ground is allowed to lie idle which could be made profitable, and the reason for this is, no doubt, that there are no cheap means of carrying produce for sale in India, and the people have no incentive to grow more than is sufficient for their own consumption. The soil is very productive, and most of the cereals, fruits, etc., suitable for a hot climate, grow well. The heat during the summer months is great, though not so much so as in the Peshawar district. It is, however, quite hot enough to render riding over that part of the country a very trying experience; and I remember when travelling up once in June how my mouth became so parched that I dare not let my tongue touch the roof of the mouth, as I was afraid it would stick there and choke me, and I was ready to drink from any of the stinking wells we came to, to get relief. Fortunately there was no cholera about at the time, or I might have fared worse, for no thought of disease would have deterred me from drinking. The temperature is made more trying than it would be because the rocks absorb the heat of the sun and become very hot, and the heat given out by them, together with that of the sun, makes the narrow defiles here and there feel like ovens, and they are so stifling that breathing more resembles gasping, until they are left behind, when the hot wind of the plains comes as a perfect relief after what has been gone through. “Like unto the shadow of a great rock in a dry land” has a fuller meaning to those who travel in such places.
The route from Kabul to Peshawar is the shortest and the recognized one for those who travel to India. There are other roads which might be used to get there; but even if one had the opportunity of using them, there are few who would care to prolong the time spent on the journey by electing to travel that way.
When the last day’s journey through Afghan territory brings one at last to the point where British territory begins, the line of demarcation is readily defined. Up to the point where the Afghan rule extends, one travels over the country as Nature made it, and the way is strewn with rocks and boulders, which are allowed to lie in the path, and necessitate the horses walking round, or in and out between them, and making them traverse thereby a much longer distance than a clear road would give. But from that point where British authority begins, there is a smooth graded road, which leads one high up over the hills and mountains of the Khyber to Lundi Kotal, and thence through the difficult mountain country of the Pass, and on into Peshawar, with gradients so easy that one can take a dog-cart and drive at a sharp trot the whole of the distance, and cover ground in a few hours which, on the Afghan side of the frontier, takes a long day’s tedious riding to get over.
INDEX
- A
- Abdur Rahman, Amir—
- Admiration for Gladstone, Bismarck, McMahon, and General White, [118-119]
- Afghans in Australia, and, [284]
- Amusements, [105-108]
- Anecdote of, when at war with his family, [117-118]
- Anecdote of, when in Russia, [116]
- Attendants (slave boys), [108-110]
- Attitude towards moullahs, [269]
- Attitude towards working mines, [261], [305]
- Aversion to railways, [305]
- Burial, [130]
- Character, [117], [118]
- Conduct at festivals, [207]
- Customs, [105], [106]
- Death, [126]
- Deserted during earthquake, [256]
- Doctor and medicine, [104]
- Drinking-water, [104]
- Favourites, [124]
- Fled from cholera to Paghman, [162], [200]
- Fond of flowers, [107]
- Food, [103]
- Government, [98 seq.], [102]
- Guard, [105]
- Hat with diamond star, [133]
- Imported Russian spy system, [151]
- Interest in trade and mechanics, [229], [233]
- Method of putting down robbery, [28]
- Offence of writing reports concerning him to the Indian Government, [152]
- On Afridi rising, [110-112]
- On English Parliament, [114]
- Palaces, [51-52], [102]
- Personal appearance, [37]
- Petitions to, [138]
- Plans for his country, [113], [117], [304]
- Policy of getting rid of influential men, [289 seq.]
- Policy towards England, [110], [113 seq.], [123], [208]
- Preparations for fighting or travelling, [104]
- Punishments, [157 seq.], [162 seq.], [170], [300]
- Reads letter from spy in Russia to author, [303]
- Reception of author, [38]
- Reception of Nasrullah Khan, [32]
- Sons, his treatment of them, [120], [121], [293]
- Stays at Nasrullah’s house, [121]
- Story of Moullah and, [15]
- Subjugated the Hazaras and Kafris, [63]
- Sufferings from gout, [108], [125]
- Title, “Light of Religion and Faith,” [123], [133]
- Tomb prepared at Kila Asham Khan, [129]
- Views on Boer War, [115]
- Afghanistan—
- As a buffer state, [298]
- Condition of country for warfare, [226]
- Difficult to enter, [308]
- Afghans—
- Admire fat men, [89]
- Characteristics, [61], [62], [65 seq.], [78], [92], [100], [138], [227], [276]
- Colony in Australia, [283], [284]
- Complexion, [61]
- Discontented, [298]
- Family feuds, [66]
- Fond of children, [184]
- Lost tribes of Israel and, [62]
- Mode of meeting friends, [6]
- Policy of arming, [300]
- Religious fanatics, [288]
- Sympathy with English justice and government, [301]
- Workman, [235]
- Afridi rising, [110]
- Aminoolah, Sirdar, [110], [120]
- Amirs—
- Internal policy, [307]
- Powers and duties, [98]
- Amusements, [68], [205]
- Animals, clean and unclean, [284]
- Apricots, [239]
- Arabic, children taught to read, [65]
- Arak fortified palace, [36]
- Abdur Rahman’s body taken to, [128]
- Described, [51], [52]
- Army, [299]
- As a fighting machine, [225-227]
- Generals have no knowledge of modern warfare, [225]
- Asman Heights, [162], [164]
- Water-marked, [259]
- Astrologers, [84]
- Author—
- Accompanies Shahzada to Kabul, [2]
- Appointment and work as engineer, [231-233]
- Assaying and reporting on minerals, [262]
- Attacked by Ghazis, [181]
- Exhibition of cinematograph, [141]
- First visit to Kabul, 1889, [166]
- Hindustani servant, [187]
- House and garden in Kabul, [177]
- Illness at Kandahar, [19]
- Inspects powder-shop, [183]
- Journey from Kabul to Peshawar, [308 seq.]
- On jury, [208]
- Presents from princes, [196]
- Quarters at Kabul, [33], [41]
- Quarters at Kandahar, [14]
- Received by Amir, [35], [36 seq.]
- Ride from Kabul to Peshawar, [11], [309 seq.]
- Riding and cycling, [176]
- Shooting on chamans, [175]
- Story of servants’ superstition, [78]
- Ayoob Khan, [112], [293]
- B
- Baber, summer palace at, [52]
- Baghibala palace, [52], [107]
- Abdur Rahman dies in, [127]
- Bala Hisar, Kabul, rased to the ground, [303]
- Bala Hisar, well in, [149]
- Barikab, [311], [314]
- Barracks, [219]
- Basawal, [316]
- Bazars, buying in, [190], [192 seq.]
- Bazars, lawlessness in, [192]
- Beating with sticks, [160]
- Blizzard, [312]
- Blue pigeon, [174], [176]
- Boer war, [115]
- Boistan serai palace, [36], [52]
- Abdul Rahman, buried in, [130]
- Audience chamber in, [38]
- Bribery, [100]
- British Agent in Kabul, [301]
- Brown, General Sir J., meets Shahzada at Chaman, [1]
- Budkhark, [311]
- Burial of household treasure, [129]
- Buying in bazar, [190], [192 seq.]
- C
- Camel meat, [88]
- Camels, ill-adapted for travelling over snow, [24]
- Camps, description of, [8]
- Caravans, [242]
- Carpets, [240]
- Carriers for hire, [195]
- Cattle-breeding, [240]
- Cavagnari massacred, [303]
- Chaman railway terminus near Afghan frontier, [1]
- Chamans, [174]
- Character of people, [64 seq.]
- Children, method of naming, [286]
- Children singing prayers on roof to avert calamity, [86]
- Chillum described, [89]
- Cholera epidemics, [45], [55], [87], [137], [162], [199], [200]
- Climate of Kabul, [53 seq.]
- Cloth manufactured, [240]
- Coal, [260], [263-264]
- Coinage and mint, [251]
- Cold and snow, [23], [25], [54]
- Copper ores, [260]
- Court jester, [108], [207]
- Courtship and marriage, [92 seq.]
- Cows, [194]
- Curios, Hindoo dealers and, [206]
- Curzon, Lord, requests Amir to visit him in Peshawar, [296]
- D
- Daka, Afghan frontier post, [316]
- Daly, Mrs., lady doctor, [130], [182], [185]
- Not allowed to visit the Queen Sultana, [295]
- Treating cholera cases, [200]
- Dances, [72]
- Dancing-girls, [71]
- Darwaza Ghazni pass, [29]
- Death penalty, [98]
- Debt collecting, [250]
- Deh Afghanan, [35], [177]
- Dogs, [27], [46], [285]
- Donkeys, small size of, [14]
- Dress of men, [58]
- Drills, [214]
- Duck-shooting, [108], [175]
- Durbars, [99], [100], [105], [123]
- On festivals, [206]
- Durrah-i-Yusef, coal at, [263]
- Dust storms, [54]
- E
- Earthquakes, [255 seq.]
- Elephant, story of mad, [139]
- Englishmen dining with Amir, [103]
- Europeans in Kabul, [123], [130], [173 seq.]
- Attend durbar on festivals, [206]
- Laws and, [208]
- Women and children, [184]
- Evil eye, the, [86]
- Execution, methods of, [168]
- Exports, [239]
- F
- Fairies, [80]
- Fakirs, [271], [273]
- False reporting, [153]
- Famine of 1903, [197]
- “Fanah” (wedge) torture, [153-155], [248]
- Fanatics (ghazis), [181]
- Fat men, [89]
- Fatehabad, [311]
- Festivals, [279-281]
- Firman, [185]
- Fish in Kabul river, [175]
- Fishing in rivers, method of, [17]
- Fleischer family, [130]
- Fleischer, Mr., murdered, [175]
- Fleischer, Mrs., her German nurse, [185]
- Flour, price of, [194]
- Food, [87-89], [194-195]
- Lawful and unlawful, [284]
- Fowls, duck, geese, etc., raising, [194]
- Freight-carrying, [242]
- Fruit, dried, [239]
- Fuel in Government workshops, [230], [234], [263], [264]
- Funerals, [96-97]
- G
- Games, [76]
- Gandamak, [311]
- Geology of country, [254 seq.]
- Ghazni, [23], [29];
- described, [24]
- Ghulam Hyder, [289]
- Girdi Kutch, [316]
- Girls become “purdah” about eight, [77]
- Gold, [260]
- Gold mine, an abandoned, [20]
- Government, [98], [101]
- Government stores, [102]
- Governors of Kandahar, [13]
- Grapes, [239]
- Gravestones, [96-97]
- Guards given to European servants of Government, [181]
- Gulistan serai, Queen Sultana’s palace, [36], [52], [128]
- H
- Habibullah Khan, Amir, [30], [31], [120]
- Acknowledged Amir, [127]
- Amusements, [139-141]
- Attendants, [109]
- Attitude towards fakirs, [273]
- Attitude towards moullahs, [270]
- Characteristics, [141], [207]
- Conduct on Abdur Rahman’s death, [127 seq.], [294]
- Coronation, [132-134]
- Desires seaboard, [306]
- Disallowed petitions, [138]
- Forms a parliament, [124]
- In Arak, [137], [294]
- Interest in machinery, [230]
- Nominal head of army, [121]
- Position difficult, [298]
- Precautions regarding his food and drink, [104]
- Promises of reform, [137]
- Remains in Arak during cholera epidemic, [201]
- Speech at coronation, [133-134]
- Story of his cruelty, [161]
- Haddah moullah, [110-112]
- Hafiz, [273]
- Haj, pilgrimages to Mecca, [281]
- Hamams (Turkish baths) described, [34]
- Hamilton, Lieutenant, [225]
- Hazaras, [63]
- Coolies, [186]
- Mulberry diet, [87]
- Servants, [190]
- Heat during summer months, [320]
- Hindeki, summer palace at, [52]
- Amir Habibullah at, [297]
- Hindu dealers and curios, [206]
- Money-lenders in Kabul, [251]
- Hindustani servants and swindling, [187 seq.]
- Holidays, how spent, [69]
- Horse raising, [240]
- Houses of Kabul described, [50]
- I
- Ignorance of numbers and telling the time, [92]
- Imports, [244]
- Insurrection expected on death of Abdur Rahman, [128], [131], [135], [295]
- Interpreters, [211]
- Irrigation, [13], [42], [241]
- J
- Jagdalak, [311]
- Jelalabad, [311]—
- Described, [315], [317]
- District, tropical fruits in, [239]
- Governor of, [112]
- To Khyber, country between, [320]
- To Peshawar, five days’ journey, [316]
- Jidrani knife-dancers, [72]
- Jihad (religious war), [112], [203], [226], [267], [269], [299]
- “Jubah,” account of, [73 seq.]
- Jumrood fort, [316]
- K
- Kabob, [88], [103]
- Kabul—
- Bazar shops, [49]
- British agent in, [301]
- Climate, [53 seq.]
- Adapted for fruit-growing, [239]
- Description of city and country round, [42 seq.]
- Houses described, [50]
- Kotwali and soldier guards, [145]
- Kotwali office, [143]
- Mihman Khana, or guest-house, [33]
- Palaces, [51]
- People met in streets, [36]
- Prisons in, [146 seq.]
- Robberies in, [47], [144]
- Russian influence in, [297]
- To Peshawar, eight days’ journey, [309]
- “Wardi” sounded, [49]
- Workshops, [234]
- Kabul river, [42]
- At Jelalabad, [316], [319]
- Kabul valley, crater of ancient volcano, [254]
- Once a lake, [258]
- Kabulis, characteristics, [61], [62], [66], [78]
- Kabulis, consume large quantities of tea, [89]
- Kafris, [63]
- Boys punished for deserting, [167]
- Kandahar—
- Described, [13], [14]
- District tropical fruits in, [239]
- Nasrullah Khan’s stay at, [12 seq.]
- Kandaharis, characteristics, [63]
- Khilat, [22], [29]
- “Khilat,” robes of honour, [134]
- Khuskh, Russian railway to, [114]
- Khyber Pass closed, [196]
- Khyber Pass, opened twice a week for travellers, [314]
- Kila Durani, [29]
- Kila Asham Khan, summer palace of Queen Sultana at, [52]
- Abdur Rahman’s tomb prepared at, [129]
- Kila Kazee, [30]
- Knife-dancers, [72]
- Kohistan, earthquakes in, [257]
- Koochee people, [88]
- As carriers, [242]
- Women, [243]
- Koran, account of, [268]
- Kotwal (magistrate), [138], [142 seq.]
- At Chaman terminus, story of, [6]
- Duties of, [47]
- Kotwali sepoys (policemen), [48], [143 seq.]
- Thieving propensities, [178-180]
- Kotwali stations, [145]
- “Kro,” the unit of distance, [10], [245]
- Kuzilbash people, [266]
- L
- Ladysmith, defence of, [119]
- Languages of Afghanistan, [63-64]
- Latabund Pass, [310], [314]
- Letter-writers in bazars, [50]
- Letters, [209]
- How carried, [210]
- Postage, [211]
- Loneliness of life in Kabul, [173]
- Lunatics, [271]
- Lundi Kotal, British frontier post, [316], [322]
- M
- Mahomed Ali, Sirdar, [120]
- Mahomed Omar, Sirdar, [30], [110], [120], [126], [133], [294]
- Acknowledges Habibullah as Amir, [127]
- Mahomedzai family, allowance from Government, [122]
- Mohammedan belief on true religions, [202]
- Marches, length of, [10], [25]
- Marriage customs, [94-95]
- Maulavi Najmudeen Aghondzada, Haddah moullah, [110-112]
- Melons, [317]
- Mills for grinding corn, [241]
- Mines, not worked, [261], [305]
- Mines, outcropping, [260]
- Mirzas (clerks), [245 seq.]
- Moullahs—
- Influence and practices, [135], [267], [274]
- Preaching a new religion, [202]
- Story of Amir and, [15]
- Mukur, [22], [23]
- Mulberry diet, [87]
- Munzil Bagh, [19]
- Musak, for carrying water and crossing rivers described, [318]
- Musical instruments, [70]
- At Kandahar, [22]
- Musjids, [277]
- Mussulman year, how reckoned, [279]
- N
- Nasrullah Khan, Shahzada, [40], [120]
- Builds house like Dorchester House, [121]
- Conduct on Abdur Rahman’s death, [126], [128], [133]
- Entry into Kabul, [31]
- Favourite wife dies of cholera, [201]
- Head of offices and mirzas, [121]
- Inspecting troops, [136]
- Journey from Chaman to Kabul, [2 seq.]
- Knowledge of his religion, [203]
- Mission to England, its object, [110]
- Routes from and to Kabul, [12]
- Stay in Kandahar, [12], [21]
- Visit to England, 1895, [1]
- Welcomed at villages and cities, [5], [11], [24]
- O
- Officers, titles, and promotion, [223]
- Officials, [99], [101], [103], [109]
- Power over Abdur Rahman, [125]
- Princes and, [121]
- Salaries, [122]
- Titles, [123]
- Treatment of English residents, [123]
- Workmen and, [236]
- Old uniforms, [60]
- ʾOud Khels, thief tribe, [221-223]
- Oxus river, gold in, [260]
- P
- Pack animals, [4], [242], [320]
- Paghman, summer palace at, [52]
- Abdur Rahman at, [162]
- Palaces in Kabul, [51]
- Parliament, [124]
- Persian, the Court language, [64]
- Petitions to Amir, [138]
- Pilau, [88], [103]
- Plots to get Abdur Rahman’s body, [129]
- Political situation, [289 seq.]
- Postage on letters and magazines, [211]
- Powder-making, accidents in, [237]
- Prayers, [276]
- Princes, Royal, their position and treatment, [120-122]
- Prisons, [302]
- In Kabul, [146 seq.]
- Well in Bala Hisar, [149]
- Prisoners: food and treatment, [148-150]
- Prisoners, revolt of, [147]
- Provisions from India, [194]
- Pul-i-Bagrami, Amir’s shooting-box at, [139]
- Punishments, [149 seq.], [157 seq.]
- Pushtoo, [63]
- Q
- Quail-shooting, [174], [176]
- Queen Sultana, [30]
- Influence, [126]
- Lived at Gulistan serai, [294]
- R
- Racing, [75]
- Rafts for crossing river, [317]
- Railways, why not wanted, [305]
- Railways would be easy to make in Afghanistan, [29]
- Ramazan fast, [277]
- Regimental bands, [223], [224]
- Regiments, how named, [220]
- Religion, [266 seq.]
- Crimes and offences, [274]
- Revenue of country, [296]
- Road from Chaman to Kandahar, [29]
- Robberies—
- And murders on roads, [27]
- By collectors of revenue, [123]
- In Kabul, [47], [144]
- Roberts, Lord, march to Kandahar, [113], [114]
- Roberts, Lord, rased Bala Hisar, [303]
- Roofs of houses used for exercise and sleeping, [205]
- Route to Kabul through Khilat, Mukur, and Ghazni, [22]
- Routes from India to Afghanistan, [12]
- Rupees, [252]
- Russian encroachments on frontier, [297]
- Russian influence in Kabul, [297]
- Russian railway to Khuskh, [114]
- S
- “Sandalee,” for warming rooms, described, [90]
- Sayids, [272]
- Schools, [64]
- Seaboard desired, [306]
- Serais, [312]
- Servants in Kabul, [186]
- Shahrara palace, [52]
- Shaitans (demons), stories of, [81 seq.]
- Sheep raising, [194]
- Shere Ali, Amir, story of chief of ʾOud Khels and, [221]
- Shiah sect, [266]
- Shinwari tribe, [112]
- Shooting near Kabul, [174]
- Silk, where produced, [240]
- Singing, [70]
- Sirdar, title conferred only on Amir’s sons, [30]
- Smoking, [89]
- Snipe-shooting, [175]
- Snuff-taking, [90]
- Soldiers—
- And arms, [213 seq.]
- Dress, [59], [213]
- Field-cooking utensils, [219]
- Guards, [3], [145]
- Length of service, [219]
- Medals, [218]
- Mode of life, [220]
- Pay, [218],
- increased, [136]
- Qualities, [225]
- Ready to revolt on Abdur Rahman’s death, [131], [135-137], [295]
- Uniforms, [216]
- Spies, favourite accusation of, [152]
- Spies in foreign countries, [303], [306]
- Sponges, legend about, [84]
- Spy system, [99], [151]
- Abolished, [134]
- Stealing, punishment for, [166]
- Story-tellers, [75]
- Sundials, [91]
- Suni sect, [266]
- Superstition, stories of, [78 seq.]
- Swordstick combats, [73]
- T
- Tea imported, [244]
- Timber, [240], [317]
- Time, how kept, [91-92]
- Tirah campaign, [300]
- Its effect on traffic, [196]
- Tobacco, [89]
- Tortures, [153 seq.], [302]
- Trade and commerce, [229 seq.]
- Treasury, public and private, [101]
- Turkestanis, [63]
- U
- Usbeg game of “Buz-bazee,” [315]
- Usbeg Lancers, [3]
- Usbegs, [63]
- W
- Warming rooms, method of, [90]
- Weddings of different classes, [94-95]
- Weights and measures, [245]
- White, General, defence of Ladysmith, [119]
- Wives, plurality of, [287]
- Working hours, [205]
- Workmen, foreman and, [236]
- Pay of, [238]
- Workshops, [229 seq.], [234]
- Women, laws of “purdah” suspended in time of war, [227]
- Women, not valued in Kabul, [198]
- Wrestling matches, [74]
- Y
- Yakoob Khan, [112], [293]
THE END
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