A. (1) Drain the water out of the radiator and disconnect the radiator hose. (2) Disconnect the radiator stay rod which holds it to the dash. (3) Take out the two bolts which fasten the radiator to the frame and take radiator off. (4) Disconnect the dash at the two supporting brackets which rest on the frame. (5) Loosen the steering post bracket, fastened to the frame, when the dash and steering gear may be removed as one assembly, the wires first having been disconnected. (6) Take out the bolts holding the front radius rods in the socket underneath the crank case. (7) Remove the four bolts at the universal joint. (8) Remove pans on either side of cylinder casting and turn off gasoline; disconnect feed pipe from carburetor. (9) Disconnect exhaust manifold from exhaust pipe by uncovering large brass pack nut. (10) Take out the two cap screws which hold the crank case to the front frame. (11) Remove the bolts which hold the crank case arms to the frame at the side. Then pass a rope through the opening between the two middle cylinders and tie in a loose knot. Through the rope pass a “2 by 4,” or stout iron pipe about ten feet long, and let a man hold each end; let a third man take hold of the starting crank handle, when the whole power plant can be lifted from the car to the work bench for adjustment.
Q. How are the connecting rod bearings adjusted?
A. Connecting rod bearings may be adjusted, without taking out the engine, by the following method: (1) Drain off the oil; (2) Remove plate on bottom of crank case, exposing connecting rods; (3) Take off the first connecting rod cap, and drawfile the ends a very little at a time; (4) Replace cap, being careful to see that punch marks correspond, and tighten bolts until it fits shaft snugly; (5) Test tightness of bearing by turning engine over with the starting handle. Experienced mechanics usually determine when the bearing is properly fitted by lightly tapping each side of the cap with a hammer; (6) then loosen the bearing and proceed to fit the other bearings in the same manner; (7) after each bearing has been properly fitted and tested, then tighten the cap bolts and the work is finished.
Remember that there is a possibility of getting the bearings too tight, and under such conditions the babbitt is apt to cut out quickly, unless precaution is taken to run the motor slowly at the start. It is a good plan after adjusting the bearings to jack up the rear wheels and let the motor run slowly for about two hours (keeping it well supplied with water and oil) before taking it out on the road. Whenever possible these bearings should be fitted by an expert Ford mechanic.
Worn connecting rods may be returned, prepaid, to the nearest agent or branch house for exchange at a price of 75 cents each to cover the cost of rebabbitting. It is not advisable for any owner or repair shop to attempt the rebabbitting of connecting rods or main bearings, for without a special jig in which to form the bearings, satisfactory results will not be obtained. The constant tapping of a loose connecting rod on the crank shaft will eventually produce crystallization of the steel, resulting in broken crank shaft and possibly other parts of the engine damaged.
Q. How are the crank shaft main bearings adjusted?
A. Should the stationary bearings in which the crank shaft revolves become worn (evidenced by a pounding in the motor) and need replacing or adjustment, proceed as follows: (1) After the engine has been taken out of the car, remove crank case, transmission cover, cylinder head, pistons, connecting rods, transmission and magnetic coils. Take off the three babbitted caps and clean the bearing surfaces with gasoline. Apply Persian blue or red lead to the crank shaft bearing surfaces, which will enable you, in fitting the caps, to determine whether a perfect bearing surface is obtained.
(2) Place the rear cap in position and tighten it up as much as possible without stripping the bolt threads. When the bearing has been properly fitted, the crank will permit moving with one hand. If the crank shaft cannot be turned with one hand, the contact between the bearing surface is evidently too close, and the cap requires ohming up, one or two brass lines usually being sufficient. In case the crank shaft moves too easily with one hand, the shims should be removed and the steel surface of the cap filed off, permitting it to set closer.
(3) After removing the cap, observe whether the blue or red “spottings” indicate a full bearing the length of the cap. If “spottings” do not show a true bearing, the babbitt should be scraped and the cap refitted until the proper results are obtained.
(4) Lay the rear cap aside and proceed to adjust the center bearing in the same manner. Repeat the operation with the front bearing, with the other two bearings laid aside.