A. First, jack up the wheel clear of the road. The valve cap should be unscrewed, the lock nut removed and the valve stem pushed into the tire until its bead is flush with the rim. This done, loosen up the head of the shoe in the clinch of the rim by working and pushing with the hands, then insert one of the tire irons or levers under the beads. The tire iron should be pushed in just enough to get a good hold on the under side of the bead, but not so far as to pinch the inner tube between the rim and the tool. A second iron should be inserted in the same fashion some seven or eight inches from the first, and a third tool the same distance from the second. As a cylinder tire must be pried over the clinch, three or four levers will come in handy in a case of a “one man job,” and the knee of the driver can be used to good advantage to hold down one lever while the other two are being manipulated in working the shoe clear of the rim. After freeing a length of the bead from the clinch, the entire outer edge of the casing may be readily detached with the hand, and the damaged inner tube removed and “patched” or a spare tube inserted. Always use plenty of soapstone in replacing an inner tube.
Q. How are casings repaired?
A. Should the casing be cut so there is danger of the inner tube being blown through it, a temporary repair can be made by cementing a canvas patch on the inside of the casing. Before applying the patch the part of the casing affected should be cleaned with gasoline and when dry, rubber cement applied to both casing and patch. This will answer as an emergency repair, but the casing should be vulcanized at the first opportunity.
To prolong the life of the tire casings, any small cuts in the tread should be filled with patching cement and a specially prepared “plastic” sold by tire companies.
Q. How may tire expense be reduced?
A. Tire cost constitutes one of the most important items in the running expenses of an automobile. To get the most service at the least expense, the tire should be inspected frequently and all small cuts or holes properly sealed or repaired,—thus preventing dirt and water working in between the rubber tread and the fabric, causing blisters or sand boils.
Tires should never be run partially deflated, as the side walls are unduly bent and the fabric is subject to stress, which is known as rim cutting. The chances of getting a puncture will be greatly reduced by keeping your tires properly inflated, as a hard tire exposes much less surface to the road than a soft tire, and also deflects sharp objects that would penetrate a soft tire.
Running a flat tire, even for a short distance, is sure to be costly. Better run on the rim, very slowly and carefully, rather than on a flat tire.
Remember that fast driving and skidding shorten the life of the tires. Avoid locking the wheels with the brakes,—no tire will stand the strain of being dragged over the pavement in this fashion.
Avoid running in street car tracks, in ruts, or bumping the side of the tire against the curbing.