B has not seen to proper lubrication and has allowed his motor to overheat. The cylinders and pistons are scored and worn, and the valves are warped and do not seat properly. He drove into deep ruts and chuck-holes, and bumped into curbs and posts while turning around. His axles and wheels are out of line; the frame and all the running parts which it supports are out of alignment. Overhauling will not put this car in A-1 condition, and it is not worth more than 30 per cent. of the original cost price. It would be a poor investment at any price to an owner who is buying it for his own use.
Selecting and Testing a Used Car.—First.—If you are buying from a dealer who trades in cars, judge his statement of the condition of a car according to his ability as a mechanic and according to his reputation for accuracy. If you are buying from a reputable used car dealer his word can usually be taken as a correct statement of conditions as his business depends upon the accuracy of his statements and he knows the condition of a car before he buys it.
Second.—See the former owner. Get his statement of the condition of the car and the care it has had, and judge it by his appearance, and the general appearance of his home and property.
Third.—If the car is listed as Rebuilt or Overhauled, see if the oil-pan, differential, and transmission covers have been removed. If this has been done the old grease will either have been cleaned off or show marks of the removal. If these marks are found the proper adjustments and replacements have probably been made.
Fourth.—Don’t judge the mechanical condition of a car by its outward appearance.
Fifth.—Examine the tires and figure the cost of replacement if any are found in poor condition.
Sixth.—Jack up the front axle and test the wheels for loose or worn bearings.
Seventh.—Grasp the wheel at the top and bottom and wiggle it to determine whether the spindle bolts or steering device connections are worn.
Eighth.—Jack up the rear axle, set the gear shift-lever into high-speed, move the wheel in and out from the bottom to discover worn bearings, and move the wheel, forward and backward, to determine the amount of back-lash in the differential and universal joints.
Ninth.—Test the compression of the cylinders while the engine is cold using the hand crank. If one cylinder is found weak, a leak exists and the escaping compression can be heard.