CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE
I. Just a Word Before We Start [1]
II. The Gateway to Egypt [3]
III. King Cotton on the Nile [13]
IV. Through Old Egypt to Cairo [22]
V. Fellaheen on Their Farms [29]
VI. The Prophet’s Birthday [41]
VII. In the Bazaars of Cairo [49]
VIII. Intimate Talks with Two Khedives [58]
IX. El-Azhar and Its Ten Thousand Moslem Students [70]
X. Climbing the Great Pyramid [79]
XI. The Pyramids Revisited [87]
XII. Face to Face with the Pharaohs [96]
XIII. The American College at Asyut [106]
XIV. The Christian Copts [112]
XV. Old Thebes and the Valley of the Kings [117]
XVI. The Nile in Harness [128]
XVII. Steaming through the Land of Cush [140]
XVIII. From the Mediterranean to the Sudan [149]
XIX. Across Africa by Air and Rail [160]
XX. Khartum [167]
XXI. Empire Building in the Sudan [175]
XXII. Why General Gordon Had No Fear [181]
XXIII. Omdurman, Stronghold of the Mahdi [187]
XXIV. Gordon College and the Wellcome Laboratories [200]
XXV. Through the Suez Canal [208]
XXVI. Down the Red Sea [218]
XXVII. Along the African Coast [224]
XXVIII. Aden [229]
XXIX. In Mombasa [236]
XXX. The Uganda Railway [243]
XXXI. The Capital of Kenya Colony [252]
XXXII. John Bull in East Africa [261]
XXXIII. With the Big-Game Hunters [269]
XXXIV. Among the Kikuyus and the Nandi [277]
XXXV. The Great Rift Valley and the Masai [285]
XXXVI. Where Men Go Naked and Women Wear Tails [293]
See the World with Carpenter [303]
Bibliography [305]
Index [309]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

On the great Aswan Dam [Frontispiece]
FACING PAGE
The bead sellers of Cairo [2]
The veiled women [3]
On the cotton docks of Alexandria [6]
Nubian girls selling fruit [7]
Woman making woollen yarn [14]
Fresh-cut sugar cane [15]
One of the mill bridges [18]
The ancient sakieh [19]
The native ox [19]
Water peddlers at the river [22]
Women burden bearers [23]
Threshing wheat with norag [30]
A corn field in the delta [30]
The pigeon towers [31]
In the sugar market [38]
Flat roofs and mosque towers of Cairo [39]
Tent of the sacred carpet [46]
The Alabaster Mosque [47]
“Buy my lemonade!” [54]
A street in old Cairo [55]
Gates of the Abdin Palace [62]
The essential kavass [63]
In the palace conservatory [66]
The famous Shepheard’s Hotel [67]
Learning the Koran [67]
Approaching El-Azhar [70]
In the porticos of El-Azhar [71]
The Pyramids [78]
Mr. Carpenter climbing the Pyramids [79]
Standing on the Sphinx’s neck [82]
Taking it easy at Helouan [83]
View of the Pyramids [86]
Uncovering tombs of ancient kings [87]
The alabaster Sphinx [94]
The great museum at Cairo [95]
Students at Asyut College [102]
American College at Asyut [103]
Between classes at the college [103]
In the bazaars [110]
A native school in an illiterate land [111]
The greatest egoist of Egypt [118]
The temple tomb of Hatshepsut [119]
Sacred lake before the temple [119]
The avenue of sphinxes [126]
The dam is over a mile long [127]
Lifting water from level to level [134]
Where the fellaheen live [135]
A Nubian pilot guides our ship [142]
Pharaoh’s Bed half submerged [143]
An aged warrior of the Bisharin [150]
A mud village on the Nile [151]
Where the Bisharin live [151]
A safe place for babies [158]
Mother and child [159]
A bad landing place for aviators [162]
Over the native villages [162]
The first king of free Egypt [163]
Soldiers guard the mails [166]
An American locomotive in the Sudan [167]
Light railways still are used [167]
Along the river in Khartum [174]
Where the Blue and the White Nile meet [175]
The modern city of Khartum [175]
A white negro of the Sudan [178]
Where worshippers stand barefooted for hours [179]
Grain awaiting shipment down river [182]
“Backsheesh!” is the cry of the children [182]
Cotton culture in the Sudan [183]
The Sirdar’s palace [183]
The bride and her husband [190]
Omdurman, city of mud [191]
Huts of the natives [191]
A Shilouk warrior [198]
In Gordon College [199]
Teaching the boys manual arts [206]
View of Gordon College [207]
On the docks at Port Said [207]
Fresh water in the desert [210]
The entrance to the Suez Canal [211]
A street in dreary Suez [226]
Ships passing in the canal [227]
Pilgrims at Mecca [230]
Camel market in Aden [231]
Harbour of Mombasa [238]
Where the Hindus sell cotton prints [239]
The merchants are mostly East Indians [239]
A Swahili beauty [242]
Passengers on the Uganda Railroad [243]
An American bridge in East Africa [246]
Native workers on the railway [246]
Why the natives steal telephone wire [247]
In Nairobi [254]
The hotel [255]
Jinrikisha boys [255]
A native servant [258]
Naivasha [259]
The court for white and black [259]
Motor trucks are coming in [262]
How the natives live [263]
Native taste in dress goods [266]
The Kikuyus [266]
Wealth is measured in cattle [267]
Zebras are frequently seen [270]
Even the lions are protected [271]
Giraffes are plentiful [271]
Elephant tusks for the ivory market [278]
How the mothers carry babies [279]
Mr. Carpenter in the elephant grass [286]
Nandi warriors [287]
Woman wearing a tail [290]
How they stretch their ears [291]
The witch doctor [298]
Home of an official [299]
The mud huts of the Masai [299]
MAPS
Africa [34]
From Cairo to Kisumu [50]

CAIRO TO KISUMU
EGYPT—THE SUDAN—KENYA COLONY

CHAPTER I
JUST A WORD BEFORE WE START

This volume on Egypt, Nubia, the Sudan, and Kenya Colony is based upon notes made during my several trips to this part of the world. At times the notes are published just as they came hot from my pen, taking you back, as it were, to the occasion on which they were written. Again they are modified somewhat to accord with present conditions.