Canada and Newfoundland

by Frank G. Carpenter

In the publication of this volume on my travels in Canada and Newfoundland, I wish to thank the Secretary of State for letters which have given me the assistance of our official representatives in the countries visited. I thank also the Secretary of Agriculture and our Secretary of Labour for appointing me an Honourary Commissioner of their Departments in foreign lands. Their credentials have been of great value, making accessible sources of information seldom opened to the ordinary traveller.

To the officials of the Dominions of Newfoundland and Canada I desire to express my thanks for exceptional courtesies which greatly aided me in my investigations.

I would also thank Mr. Dudley Harmon, my editor, and Miss Ellen McB. Brown and Miss Josephine Lehmann, my associate editors, for their assistance and coöperation in the revision of notes dictated or penned by me on the ground.

While nearly all of the illustrations in Carpenter’s World Travels are from my own negatives, those in the book have been supplemented by photographs from the official collections of the Canadian government, the Canadian National Lines, the Canadian Pacific Railway, the Publishers’ Photo Service, the Holloway Studios of St. John’s, N. F., and Lomen Bros., of Nome, Alaska.

F. G. C.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER		PAGE
I.	Just a Word Before we Start	[1]
II.	The Key to the St. Lawrence	[3]
III.	Around About St. John’s	[8]
IV.	The Cod Fisheries of Newfoundland	[13]
V.	Iron Mines Under the Sea	[24]
VI.	The Maritime Provinces	[31]
VII.	In French Canada	[42]
VIII.	Ste. Anne de Beaupré and its Miraculous Cures	[52]
IX.	Montreal	[60]
X.	Canada’s Big Banks	[69]
XI.	Ottawa—The Capital of the Dominion	[79]
XII.	The Lumber Yard of an Empire	[88]
XIII.	Toronto—The City of Public Ownership	[97]
XIV.	Waterfalls that Work for the People	[106]
XV.	Niagara’s Giant Power Station	[113]
XVI.	The Silver Mines of Northern Ontario	[119]
XVII.	Nickel for all the World	[127]
XVIII.	Sault Ste. Marie and the Clay Belt	[134]
XIX.	The Twin Lake Ports	[141]
XX.	Winnipeg—Where the Prairies Begin	[148]
XXI.	The Great Transcontinental Railways	[157]
XXII.	The Land of Furs	[166]
XXIII.	Saskatchewan	[175]
XXIV.	The World’s Largest Wheatfield	[181]
XXV.	The Open Door in Canada	[188]
XXVI.	Edmonton—The Gateway to the Northwest	[197]
XXVII.	The Passing of the Cattle Range	[206]
XXVIII.	Over the Great Divide	[213]
XXIX.	Through British Columbia to the Coast	[220]
XXX.	Prince Rupert	[226]
XXXI.	By Motor Car Through the Wilderness	[232]
XXXII.	From White Horse to Dawson	[241]
XXXIII.	The Capital of the Yukon	[250]
XXXIV.	Farming on the Edge of the Arctic	[259]
XXXV.	Mining Wonders of the Far North	[266]
XXXVI.	Romances of the Klondike	[274]
XXXVII.	A Dredge King of the Klondike	[281]
XXXVIII.	The Royal Canadian Mounted Police	[288]
See the World with Frank G. Carpenter		[298]
Index		[301]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Where Man Feels Close to God[Frontispiece]
PAGE
The Untold Wealth of Canada	[2]
Newfoundland’s Rocky Coast	[3]
Icebergs off St John’s Harbour	[6]
The Capital City of Newfoundland	[7]
On the Fish Wharves	[14]
Spreading Codfish out to Dry	[15]
Fishing Villages	[18]
Hunting Seals on the Ice Fields	[19]
Caribou Crossing a River	[19]
Ore Piles at the Wabana Mines	[22]
The Annual Fishermen’s Race	[23]
Halifax Harbour	[30]
Cape Breton Island	[31]
Evangeline’s Well	[38]
Low Tide in the Bay of Fundy	[38]
A Quebec Farm House	[39]
French Canadian Woman Spinning	[39]
The Gibraltar of America	[46]
The St Louis Gate at Quebec	[47]
A Plank-paved Street	[50]
Ribbon-like Farms along the St Lawrence	[51]
A Wayside Shrine	[54]
The Church of Notre Dame	[55]
Grain Elevators of Montreal	[62]
Montreal from Mount Royal	[63]
In the Old French Market	[66]
Toboggan Slide Down Mount Royal	[67]
“Shooting” the Rapids	[70]
Through the La Chine Canal	[70]
Along the Rideau Canal	[71]
The Heights Above the Ottawa River	[78]
The Library of Parliament	[79]
A Giant of the Forest	[86]
Food for a Pulp Mill	[87]
A Forest Patrol Airplane	[87]
Log Jam on a Canadian River	[94]
Toronto’s Municipal Playground	[95]
Farm Scene in Ontario	[95]
Toronto, City of Sky-scrapers	[102]
Flax Raising in Ontario	[103]
Orchards of the Niagara Peninsula	[110]
The Big Ditch at Niagara	[111]
Ontario’s Giant Power Station	[111]
Potential Power for Canadian Industries	[118]
The Mining Town of Cobalt	[119]
Where One Walks on Silver	[126]
Erecting a “Discovery Post”	[127]
The World’s Greatest Freight Canal	[134]
Bascule Bridge at Sault Ste. Marie	[134]
Moose Feeding	[135]
Ontario Lake Country	[135]
Calling Moose	[138]
A Fishermen’s Mecca	[139]
The Mighty Elevators of Port Arthur	[142]
The Falls of Kakabeka	[143]
A Six-hundred-foot Lake Freighter	[143]
The Gateway to the Prairies	[150]
Cutting Corn by Machinery	[151]
Stacking Wheat	[151]
Over the Transcontinental Route	[158]
“Selling the Scenery”	[159]
Bargaining with the Eskimos	[166]
A Hudson’s Bay Trading Post	[167]
A Foster Mother for Foxes	[167]
Valuable Furs as Every-day Garments	[174]
The Capital of Saskatchewan	[175]
Grain Lands of the Prairies	[178]
American Windmills in Saskatchewan	[179]
Threshing Wheat	[179]
In Canada’s Great Wheat Province	[182]
Farming on a Large Scale	[183]
Future Citizens of the Dominion	[190]
A Modern Ranch	[191]
Raising Corn in Alberta	[194]
Railroads as Colonizers	[195]
Giving the Settler a Start	[195]
Digging Coal from a “Country Bank”	[198]
Milking Machines in an Alberta Dairy	[199]
Water for Three Million Acres	[206]
Passing of the “Wild West”	[207]
A Royal Ranch Owner	[207]
Calgary’s Business Section	[210]
Mounted Police Headquarters at Macleod	[211]
Lake of the Hanging Glaciers	[214]
The Monarch of the Herd	[215]
Mountain Climbing in the Canadian Alps	[222]
At the Foot of Mount Robson	[223]
The Land of the Kootenays	[226]
Apple Orchards of the Pacific Slope	[227]
Canada’s Most English City	[227]
Street in Prince Rupert	[230]
The World’s Greatest Halibut Port	[230]
Totem Poles at Kitwanga	[231]
Over the White Pass Railway	[238]
On the Overland Trail	[239]
Roadhouse on the Tahkeena River	[239]
The Head of Navigation on the Yukon	[242]
A Klondike Heating Plant	[243]
Islands in the Upper Yukon	[246]
Through the Five Finger Rapids	[247]
A Summer Residence in the Klondike	[254]
The White House of the Yukon	[254]
In the Land of the Midnight Sun	[255]
Redtop Grass Inside the Arctic Circle	[258]
A Ten-thousand-dollar Potato Patch	[259]
Dredging the Golden Gravel	[274]
Washing Down the Hills	[275]
Old-time Mining Methods	[278]
From Gold Seeker to Settler	[279]
The Prospector on the Trail	[279]
A Dredge King of the Klondike	[286]
Hydraulic Mining	[287]
The Guardian of the Northwest	[290]
An Eskimo of Ellesmere Island	[291]

CANADA
AND
NEWFOUNDLAND