The Holy Land and Syria

by Frank G. Carpenter

I asked about the life of the priests and whether he thought it was as pious as that of the hermits who lived in the second and third centuries after Christ. He replied that he doubted whether man was as good now as then, but that the Church was doing what it could to bring him back to the faith. He said he believed that the time would come when all mankind would be Christian, although that time would probably be far in the future. I was surprised to hear him speak well of the Protestants and say that all Christian sects would eventually unite and work together as one for the salvation of man.

His Beatitude was much interested in America and at my request gave me the blessing which he gives to all true believers, saying that I must transmit it to the American people, each of whom could regard it as being made especially for him. This blessing was given to me in a golden frame. The words are printed in Greek in letters of gold. Literally translated, it reads:

Almighty God, the Father of Mercy and God of Prayer, bless, purify, and strengthen these Thy disciples who now bow before Thee.

From every wicked work withdraw them, and in every right action give them Thy aid.

Make all things smooth to each according to his wants. Be with those travelling upon the water and upon the land. Comfort the poor and heal the sick.

We praise Thee, Our Father, the Father, Son and Holy Spirit, the source of all graciousness and glory.

And now may the grace of our Lord Jesus Christ, the love of God the Father, and the communion of the Holy Spirit be with you. Amen.

Then there was a little more talk about the Greek Church and a second servant came in with another tray more elaborate than was the first one. Upon this were wine glasses filled with a liquor the colour of the dark moss rose. It was flavoured with peppermint and had the rich, oily strength of age. Though scarcely more than three thimblefuls, it brought a pleasant warmth to the whole frame five minutes after it was drunk, and the discussion of the doctrines of the Greek Church fell on my ear like the poetry of Moore.

This refreshment was followed a few moments later by a third servant who brought in Turkish coffee served in little cups of fine china, each the size of the smallest egg cup. The coffee was as thick as Vermont molasses. It was sweet and delicious and was served without cream. After coffee is served in Jerusalem the caller can politely terminate his visit. We sipped the aromatic liquid and then arose to say good-bye. This we said in American style, shaking hands with “His Blessedness” and receiving from him a present of a Bethlehem egg. My egg lies before me as I write. Its ground is the same red as the coloured eggs of the American Easter, but this red is covered with etchings and on one side there is a rude picture of Christ ascending to heaven, with the cross in the background and with the Virgin Mary holding up her hands in adoration. On the other side in a wreath of olive branches is the date.

There is room in Palestine for the Patriarch’s hope that some day the Christian sects will get along better together than is now the case. The Holy Land often boils and seethes with the quarrels of the religious fanatics. Almost every sacred place in the country is claimed at the same time by the Greeks, Latins, Armenians, and Copts. Some of the holiest spots are divided up, and lines are drawn here and there indicating the sect to which each part belongs. The various denominations are frequently divided among themselves as to who shall control the monasteries, convents, and other institutions belonging to them, and quarrelling even goes on over the very spot where Christ was born and upon that where it is supposed the Crucifixion took place.