The greedy book

by Frank Schloesser

According to Walsh, it is not generally known that the use of flesh, meat, eggs, and milk during Lent was forbidden in England, not only by ecclesiastical but also by statute law, even into the time of William III. Any violation of the law was followed by dire penalties. There is the case of the landlady of the Rose Tavern, St. Catherine’s Tower, London, in whose house during the Lent of 1563 was found a quantity of raw and cooked meat. She and four other women who were proved to have partaken of the forbidden viands were put in the stocks all night. In 1570 was passed a statute making the penalties for violating the Lenten laws sixty shillings and three months imprisonment.

Finally, as an apposite curiosity, I will quote a curious dispensation granted two hundred and seventy-six years ago and formally recorded in the parish register of Wakefield.

“To all people to whom these presents shall come, James Lister, Vicar of Wakefield, and preacher of God’s word, sendeth greeting: Whereas Alice Lister wife of Richard Lister Clerke who now soiourneth with her sonne Willm Paulden of Wakefield, by reason of her old age & many years & state, and long-contynued sickness is become so weake, and her stomack so colde, not able to digest colde meates and fish, who by the counsell of Physicions is advised to absteine from and to forbeare the eateng of all manner of fruits, fish and milk meates: Know yee therefoor for the causes aforesaide and for the better strengthening & recovery of her health, I the saide James Lister do hereby give & grant libertie and licence to her the saide Alice Lister att her will and pleasure att all tymes, as well during the tyme of Lent, as upon other fasting daies and fish daies (exhibiting by the laws to eate flesh) to dresse and eate such kind of fleshe as shal be best agreing to her stomach & weake appetite. In witnes hereof I the saide James Lister have hereunto sett my hand the eight day of ffebuary in the sixt year of the Reine of our Soveraigne Lord Charles by the Grace of God King of England Scotland ffrance and Ireland Defender of the Faith &c and in the yeare of our Lord god 1630 James Lister.”

INDEX

• A
• Aberdour oysters, [166]
• Abstinence, [247]
• “Academy” menu, [139]
• “Accomplish’d Housewife,” [84]
• “Accomplish’d Lady Rich’s Closet,” [109]
• “Acetaria,” [64], [257]
• Acrostic dinner, [138]
• Acton, Eliza, [151]
• “Adam’s Luxury and Eve’s Cookery,” [84]
• Addison, [106]
• Ætius, [176]
• Agris of Rhodes, [112]
• “Alarm to all Persons,” [84]
• “Alchemist, The,” [39]
• “Alice in Wonderland” menu, [142]
• “All’s Well That Ends Well,” [86]
• “Almanach des Gourmands,” [44], [225]
• America and snails, [207]
• American dinner, [117]
• „   oysters, [183]
• Amory, Blanche, [23]
• Angel pie, [151]
• Anthony, Saint, [63]
• Apprenticeship of cooks, [239]
• “Archidipno,” [71]
• “Art of Cookery made Plain and Easy,” [85]
• “Art of Dining,” [88]
• Artificial snails, [213]
• Arundel, Earl of, [206], [209]
• Ashburn (or Ashburner), Mrs., [85]
• “Atall, Dr.,” [83]
• Athanasius, Saint, [63]
• Athenæus, [39], [178]
• Athenian waiters, [201]
• Atlantus, [112]
• Austen, Jane, [22], [27]
• Austrian snails, [215]
• Autun, Bishop of, [206]
• Avignon, Legate of, [252]
• Ayen, Duc d’, [225]
• Azèma, [227]
• B
• Baba, [226]
• Babiroussa, [233]
• Ball-supper menu, [147]
• “Ballade of Simpson’s,” [53]
• Ballantyne, James, [105]
• Ballotine de Perdreau Souvaroff, [152]
• Banana menu, [142]
• Banks, Sir Joseph, [71]
• Banville, Th. de, [42]
• Barbe de Capucin, [103]
• Barlow on hasty pudding, [43]
• Baskets, Luncheon, [99]
• Bavarian menu, [150]
• “B.C. The First Oyster,” [168]
• Beans as incentive to murder, [245]
• Beaufremont, Prince de, [225]
• Beaumont and Fletcher, [87]
• Béchamel, Marquis de, [223]
• Beckford, [252]
• Beef, Corned, [37]
• Beef Steaks, Society of, [57]
• Béhague, [12], [13]
• Bell, Peter, [32]
• Benger, [156]
• Bennett, Mrs., [27]
• Béranger, [42]
• Berchoux, J., [46], [48]
• Beresford, Rev. Mr., [82]
• Berkeley Hotel, [25]
• Berri, Duchesse de, [222]
• Bertrand, [223]
• Besant, Sir Walter, [104]
• Bibliophile, Jacob le, [231]
• Bill of fare, [139]
• Bingley, [27]
• Birch of Cornhill, [31]
• Black, Professor, [217]
• Blair, Mrs. Hy. W., [118]
• Blake, Wm., [93]
• Blinis, [115], [149]
• Blue Posts, Cork Street, [31]
• “Book of Menus,” [16]
• “Book without a Name,” [3]
• “Book of the Table,” [14]
• Booth, J. L. C., [202]
• Borodino, Battle of, [90]
• Bortsch, [22], [115]
• Boswell, [82]
• Boudin de Poulet à la Richelieu, [225]
• Bouillabaisse, [42]
• Boulanger, [236]
• “Bourgeois Gentilhomme,” [234]
• Bradyphagia, [90]
• Braithwaite, [239]
• Brallaghan, [45]
• Briggs, Richard, [126]
• Brillat-Savarin, [11], [23], [175], [226]
• Bristol Waters, [40]
• “British Birds,” [45], [60], [72]
• British boy cooks, [239]
• British Waiters’ Association, [200]
• Brookfield, Chas., [75], [251]
• “Brookfield, Mrs., and Her Circle,” [251]
• Browne, Sir Thomas, [62]
• Browning, [42]
• Burke, Edmund, [7]
• Burns, [42]
• Byron, Lord, [62], [68]
• C
• Cade, Jack, [63]
• Cadmus, [15]
• Café de la France, [232]
• Cailles à la Mirepoix, [222]
• “Cakes and Ale,” [151]
• Canard à la Rouennaise, [146], [147]
• Capus, Alfred, [147]
• Caraffa, Cardinal, [68]
• Carême, [5], [97], [135], [227], [234]
• Carlingford oysters, [166]
• Carlton Club, [251]
• „   Hotel, [22], [93], [138], [149]
• Carr, [88]
• Carroll, Lewis, [170], [189]
• “Causerie Culinaire,” [228]
• C. C. R., [61]
• Cecil, Hotel, [26]
• Cedd, Saint, [243]
• Celsinius, [224]
• Cervantes, [29]
• Champeaux’ Restaurant, [132]
• Chapelle, Vincent de la, [225]
• Chaptal, [70]
• Chariades, [112]
• Charles V of Spain, [206]
• Chartreuse à la Cardinal, [225]
• Chartreuse à la Mauconseil, [223]
• Chartreux, Prior of, [252]
• Chateaubriand, Origin of, [132]
• Chatillon-Plessis, [47]
• Chaucer, [62]
• Cheese recipe, [52]
• Cheremetoff, Prince, [187]
• “Cheshire Cheese,” Fleet Street, [31], [46]
• Chesterton, G. K., [129]
• Chicorée de Bruxelles, [103]
• Chinese Books on Behaviour, [110]
• „   menu, [119]
• „   restaurant, [118]
• Christmas cookery, [125]
• „   dinner, [128]
• „   menus, [127], [128]
• Cicero, [176]
• Clams, [117]
• Clark, Sir Andrew, [157]
• Cleopatra, [63]
• “Clinker, Humphry,” [6], [40]
• Close, [148]
• Clough, Arthur Henry, [43]
• Cochin, [49]
• Cogan, [67]
• Coigny, Duc de, [225]
• “Cloister and the Hearth,” [245]
• Colchester epitaph, [166]
• „    Oyster Feast, [180]
• Coleridge, S., [42]
• “Colin Clout,” [248]
• Collins, Mortimer, [45], [59], [72]
• Commodus, [224]
• “Compleat Cook,” [84]
• Consommé Sarah Bernhardt, [227]
• “Cook Book, The Poetical,” [43]
• “Cookery, Art of,” [44]
• Cookery and Food Association, [90]
• Cookery of snails, [211]
• „  Roman, [40]
• “Cook-maid’s Garland,” [54]
• “Cook’s Director,” [84]
• Cooper, E. H., [238]
• Cordon Bleu, [3]
• Corks, [193]
• Corned Beef, [37]
• Corneille, [108]
• Cornez le diner, [37]
• Cosmopolitan dining in London, [113], [117]
• Côtelettes de Mouton à la Maintenon, [221]
• Coventry, Lady, [104]
• “Coy Cook Maid, The,” [55]
• Crabbe, [42]
• “Cranford,” [28]
• Crêtes de Coq, [102]
• Criterion Restaurant, [34]
• Croustades à la Coquelin, [227]
• Cruzada, [246]
• Cuisinière Poétique, la, [42]
• “Culina Famulatrix Medicinæ,” [88]
• Culpepper, [258]
• “Cupboard Papers,” [16]
• Curry, [123]
• D
• D’Albignac, [71]
• Dallas, E. S., [11], [14]
• Dampfnudeln, [115]
• Dartmoor mutton, [204]
• D’Aubigné, [71]
• Decoration of dinner-table, [159], [161]
• Defoe, Daniel, [212]
• “Deipnosophists, The,” [45]
• Delaney, Mrs., [206]
• “Délices de la Campagne,” [178]
• Demi-deuil, [23]
• “De Opsoniis,” [224]
• Derby-day dinner, [134]
• „   menu, [134]
• Desvergers, [75]
• “Deutsche Medizinische Wochenschrift,” [201]
• Dickens, Charles, [179], [180]
• Didius Julianus, [224]
• Didsbury, P. Z., [190]
• Dieting, [157]
• Dieudonné’s Restaurant, [114]
• Digestion, [92]
• Dilly, Edward and Charles, [82]
• Diner, Le, [43]
• Dining fads, [157]
• Dining in the open air, [95]
• Dinner, American, [117]
• „    Christmas, [128]
• „    Derby-day, [134]
• „    French, [114]
• „    German, [115]
• „    Indian, [124]
• „    Italian, [114], [123]
• „    Japanese, [141]
• „    King Edward’s, [134]
• „    Parisian, [132]
• „    Queen’s Guard, [130]
• „    Royal Wedding, [136]
• Dionysius, [39]
• Dipsychus, [43]
• “Dr. Salmon’s Cookery,” [84]
• Dodsley on butter, [43]
• Doran, Dr., [71]
• Douillet, Le Père, [224]
• Dresden, Battle of, [90]
• Driver’s oyster house, [171]
• Dryden, [42]
• Dumas, Alex., fils, [74]
• „    „   père, [4], [42], [228]
• E
• Earl’s Court Exhibition, [95]
• Eating songs, [41]
• Echo Pits, Guildford, [209]
• Edgeworth, Miss, [258]
• Edinburgh Oyster Feast, [181]
• Einhorn, Dr. Max, [90]
• Elephants’ feet, [233]
• Elliott, Thos., of Tuzzliehope, [105]
• Elsey, F. H., [208], [209]
• Emigré salad maker, [71]
• “English Art of Cookery,” [126]
• English Menu, [139]
• “English Physician Enlarged,” [258]
• “Englishman, An, in Paris,” [228]
• “Eothen,” [245]
• “Epicure’s Almanack,” [31]
• “Epicure’s Year Book,” [16]
• Epicureanism, [45]
• Epitaph on Colchester man, [166]
• Erasmus, [245]
• Escoffier, [138]
• Escudella, [115]
• Estofado, [115]
• Etude sur la Moutarde, [234]
• Euphagia, [90], [91]
• Euthymus, [112]
• Evans’s, Covent Garden, [34]
• Evelyn, John, [64], [209], [257]
• F
• Faddism, [156]
• “Family Cook,” [84]
• Fasts: different kinds, [247]
• Feast of Shells, Edinburgh, [181]
• „   Oysters, Colchester, [180]
• Fernie, Dr. W. T., [207]
• Filets de Lapereau à la Berri, [222]
• Filets de Sole à la Belle Otèro, [227]
• Filets de Sole en Goujon, [145]
• Filets de Volaille à la Bellevue, [222]
• Fillets of kangaroo, [233]
• Fin Bec, [16]
• First oyster, [168], [169]
• Fleisch Brühe, [115]
• Fletcher, Horace, [156]
• Flowers, Japanese grammar of, [160]
• Food and Cookery Association, [241]
• “Fool’s Year, A,” [238]
• Fortnum and Mason, [153]
• Fourcroy, [70]
• Francatelli, [212]
• “Francillon,” [74]
• Francis of Assisi, St., [243]
• “Frazer’s Magazine,” [253]
• French dinner, [114]
• Fronto, Julius, [224]
• Fulvius Hirpinus, [177]
• G
• Galen, [65]
• Galeazzo’s Lent, [261]
• Galitzine, Prince Léon, [143]
• Gallienne, R. de, [41]
• Gambrinus Restaurant, [115]
• Gardeton, César, [173]
• Garum, [40]
• Gascoign Powder, [78]
• Gaskell, Mrs., [28]
• Gaspacho, [115]
• “Gastronome, La,” [48]
• Gastronomes, Réunion des, [17]
• “Gastronomie pour rire,” [173]
• Gaudet, [71]
• Gautier, Th., [42]
• Gay, [42], [184]
• Ged, Wm., [255], [256]
• “Génie, Le, du Christianisme,” [133]
• Graham, Cunninghame, [29]
• Grammar of flowers, Japanese, [160]
• Grand International Hotel, Chicago, [53]
• “Grand Dictionnaire de la Cuisine,” [232]
• Gravelot, [49]
• Green peas from Algiers, [101]
• Greville Memoirs, [38]
• Grignon, [234]
• Gubbins, Mr., [151]
• Guildford, [209]
• Gunter’s, [31]
• “Gentlewoman’s Delight,” [67]
• George III, [10]
• „   IV, [57], [135]
• Gerard’s Herbal, [257]
• German dinner, [115]
• „    snails, [214]
• Gigot à la Mailly, [223]
• Gigot à la Richelieu, [225]
• Gilly-flowers, [66]
• Gipsies and snails, [207]
• Gladstone, Mr., [89]
• Globe Tavern, [126]
• Gloucestershire snails, [208]
• Godwin-Austen, Lt.-Col., [209]
• Goethe, [42], [106]
• Golden Cross Hotel, [31]
• Gorse, De la, [225]
• Gourmands, Almanach des, [44], [225]
• Gourmets, Female, [23]
• Goutant, Duc de, [225]
• H
• Halcyons’ nests, [234]
• Hall, Herbert Byng, [167]
• Hampshire snails, [208]
• Hampton’s oyster house, [171]
• Hardy, Thomas, [170]
• Hare, W. R., [174]
• Haricots verts gris, [102]
• Harrison, Wm., [108]
• Hatchett’s Restaurant, [31]
• Havana, [141]
• “Haven of Health,” [67]
• Hayward, Abraham, q.c., [88]
• Hearn, Lafcadio, [57]
• Heine, [42]
• Helford natives, [166]
• Helicin, [207]
• Helix caperata, [204]
• „ pomatia, [208]
• Héloise and Abélard, [175]
• Henry VIII, [244]
• Heraldic fish, [254]
• Herbs, [256]
• Herb shops, [259]
• Hertford, Lord, [104]
• Herrick, Robert, [213]
• Hetzel, P. J., [80]
• Hieronymus, Saint, [63]
• Hill, Dr. John, [82]
• „  Miss, [9]
• Hirst, Francis W., [217]
• Hocco, [234]
• Hoffmann, [90]
• Holborn Restaurant, [34]
• Holbrook, Mr., [28]
• Holmes, Oliver Wendell, [183]
• Homard à l’Americaine, [53]
• Honours, Musical, [36]
• Hood, Tom, [182]
• Horace, [176]
• Horsley, Canon, [209]
• Hôtel Chapeau Rouge, Dunkirk, [248]
• Hôtel de la Cloche et de la Bouteille, [233]
• Hotels, British, [98]
• Hot-weather dining, [77], [163], [164]
• Hot-weather menus, [163], [164]
• “Household of Sir Thomas More,” [93]
• “Housekeeper’s Oracle,” [6]
• Huîtres de Marennes, [171]
• „  d’Ostende, [171]
• Hunter, Dr., [88]
• Hutton, Professor, [217]
• Huxley, Professor, [168]
• I
• “Illustrated Index of British Shells,” [208]
• “Impressions de Voyage,” [228]
• Indian dinner, [124]
• „  restaurant, [123]
• Isouard, Nicolo, [186]
• Italian dinner, [114]
• „   menu, [123]
• „   snails, [209]
• “Italie et la France,” [138]
• J
• Jackanapes-on-horseback, [258]
• Japanese dinner, [141]
• „   grammar of flowers, [160]
• „   menu, [120], [141]
• „   salad, [74]
• Jaucourt, M. de, [9]
• Jenner, Dr., [52]
• Jerome K. Jerome, [200]
• Jerrold, Blanchard, [16]
• Jersey oysters, [166]
• John XXII, Pope, [244]
• Johnson, Dr., [82], [162]
• Jongmanns, Herr, [34]
• Joseph, [18], [38]
• “Jubber’s,” Bond Street, [31]
• June, Sonnet to, [60]
• Juniper Hall, [9]
• Juvenal, [176]
• K
• Kabobs, [115]
• Kalbskotlette, [115]
• Kangaroo fillets, [233]
• Karpfe in Bier, [115]
• Keech, G., [51]
• Kenealy, Dr., [45]
• Kenelm, Sir Digby, [206]
• Kentish snails, [208]
• “Kettner’s Book of the Table,” [14]
• Kettner’s Restaurant, [114]
• “Kidder’s Receipts,” [84]
• “Killmansegg, Miss, and Her Golden Leg,” [182]
• King, Dr. Wm., [43], [68]
• King Edward’s dinner, [134]
• Kinglake, [245]
• King of snails, [217]
• Kitchen, Language of, [14]
• Kitchiner, Dr., [6], [81], [167]
• Kokoro, [57]
• Koulbiac, [115]
• Kron, Professor, [201]
• L
• Lacroix, [231]
• Lacticinia, [247]
• Lady Honeywood’s snail water, [212]
• “Lady’s Companion,” [78]
• Lampriadas, [112]
• “Lancet, The,” [210]
• Landor, W. S., [42]
• Laperte, M., [175]
• Laroche, [74]
• Latin de Cuisine, [150]
• Latin menu, [150]
• Laughing at dinner, [92], [93]
• Laurens, [10]
• Lauris asparagus, [101]
• “Lawyer’s Fortune, The,” [68]
• Leczinska, Marian, [222]
• Leczinski, King Stanislas, [225]
• Leighton, Lord, [168]
• Leipzig, Battle of, [90]
• “Lemery on Food,” [84]
• Lent menus, [249], [250]
• „ Galeazzo’s, [261]
• „ murders, [245]
• Lentillus, [112]
• Lettuce, [65]
• “Life is but a Melancholy Flower,” [50]
• Ligne, Prince de, [7]
• Lister, Dr., [44]
• Littré, [70]
• “Londoner’s Logbook,” [164]
• “London Gazette,” [212]
• London Tavern, [31]
• Long’s Hotel, Bond Street, [31]
• Louis XIV, [220]
• „   XV, [220]
• „   XVIII, [223]
• “Love’s Pilgrimage,” [87]
• Luce, [254]
• Luncheon baskets, [99]
• Lytton, Bulwer, [108]
• M
• Macaroncello, [228]
• Macarius, Saint, [242]
• Mâche, [103]
• “Magistrate, The,” [192]
• Magny, [234]
• Maigre menus, [249], [250]
• Maintenon, Madame de, [221]
• Mammon, Sir Epicure, [39]
• “Man and Superman,” [237]
• “Mappemonde Papistique,” [261]
• Maréchal Saxe, [148]
• Marie, [3]
• Markham, Gervase, [66]
• Marr, M. de la, [207]
• Martial, [176]
• Massonio, Salvatore, [70]
• Mathieu, [148]
• Matius, Julius, [224]
• Maupassant, Guy de, [237]
• Mayo, [82]
• Mayonnaise, [55]
• “Meals Medicinal,” [207]
• Melford, Miss Lydia, [40]
• Ménager, M., [5]
• Menon, [97], [224]
• Menu, “Academy,” [139]
• „  Acrostic, [138]
• „  “Alice in Wonderland,” 142
• „  Ball-supper, [147]
• „  Banana, [142]
• „  Bavarian, [150]
• „  Carlton Hotel, [149]
• „  Chinese, [119]
• „  Christmas, [127], [128]
• „  Derby-day, [134]
• „  English, [139], [140]
• „  Galitzine, Prince, [144]
• „  Hot-weather, [163], [164]
• „  Indian, [124]
• „  Italian, [123]
• „  Japanese, [120], [141]
• „  Latin, [150]
• „  literal translation, [139]
• „  Parisian, [132]
• „  Picnic, [153]
• „  Prince’s Restaurant, [154]
• „  Queen’s Guard, [130]
• „  Royal Society of St. George, [140]
• „  Savoy Hotel, [145], [155]
• „  Spanish, [122]
• „  Swedish, [121]
• „  Windsor Castle, [136]
• Menus, [16], [17], [24]
• “Menus, Book of,” [16]
• “Menus for Lent,” [249], [250]
• „  maigres, [249], [250]
• Méry, [42]
• Meyerbeer, Œufs à la, [27]
• Millais, Sir J. E., [168]
• Minestrone, [114]
• “Minora Carmina,” [60]
• Mirabolant, [23]
• “Miscellanies: a Variety,” [1]
• “Modern Cook,” V. la Chapelle, [84], [212]
• Molière, [58], [91], [234]
• Monselet, Charles, [42]
• Monsiau, [49]
• Montaigne, [67]
• “Monte Cristo,” [233]
• Moore, Thomas, [42]
• Morgan, Lady, [3]
• Morris, Captain Charles, [57]
• Motor luncheons, [99]
• Mouret, Pierre, [136]
• Moustier, [225]
• Murders in Lent, [245]
• Murphy, Serjeant, [253]
• Murray, Grenville, [71]
• Music at restaurants, [31]
• Mutton, Boiled, [27]
• „   Dartmoor, [204]
• „   South Down, [204]
• “My Cookery Books,” [89]
• N
• Napoleon, [89], [135], [226]
• “Nearly Seven,” [75]
• Nereus of Corinth, [112]
• Nesle, Marquis de, [223]
• Newcastle Snail Feast, [208]
• New England Indian pudding, [118]
• Nicolo, Isouard, [186]
• “Noctes Ambrosianæ,” [167]
• Norfolk, Duke of, [254]
• “North British Review,” [168]
• North, Christopher, [167]
• “Nunc est Cœnandum,” [61]
• O
• Oddenino, [115]
• Okra, [117]
• “On the Search for a Dinner,” [174]
• Open-air dining, [95]
• Oribasius, [176]
• Onions, [112]
• Ow, Baron von, [150]
• Owenson, Sidney, [3]
• Oysters, American, [183]
• „  appropriate drinks, [172]
• „  Boiled, [174]
• „  Feast, Colchester, [180]
• „     „   Edinburgh, [181]
• „  Poor man’s, [209]
• „  whistling, [181]
• P
• Pagani’s Restaurant, [114]
• Pain à la d’Orléans, [222]
• Palais Royal, [75]
• Parkinson, John, [257]
• Parisian menu, [132]
• Pâté de Foie Gras, [148]
• Pauillac lamb, [101]
• Pearls, [185]
• Pêche Melba, [227]
• “Pelham,” [108]
• Pennell, Mrs. Joseph, [89]
• Perche à la Gaubert, [227]
• Père-la-Chaise, [175]
• Petites Bouchées à la Reine, [222]
• Petrarch, [261]
• Philip, John, [179]
• “Pickwick Papers,” [179], [180]
• Picnic menu, [153]
• Picnics, [151]
• Pike, [254]
• Pinero, A. W., [192]
• Pinna marina, [185]
• “Plebeian Polished, The,” [6]
• Pliny, [176], [205]
• Plum pudding, [126]
• “Poems of Good Cheer,” [48]
• “Poetical Cook Book,” [43]
• Polignac, Marquis de, [225]
• Pollio alla Contrabandista, [114]
• Pompadour, [222]
• Poor man’s oyster, [209]
• Potage à la Camerani, [225]
• „   „  Dumesnil, [227]
• Poularde à la Georges Sand, [227]
• „    „  Basilic, [225]
• „    de Bresse, [102]
• Poularde à la Montmorency, [222]
• Poule-au-pot Henri IV, [145]
• Poulet du Mans, [102]
• „   à la Marengo, [226]
• „    „  Villeroy, [222]
• Powldoodies, [166]
• Pré Salé, [101]
• Primeurs, [101], [103]
• Prince’s Restaurant, [24], [154], [227]
• Prinz Pückler, [124]
• “Propos d’Art et de Cuisine,” [228]
• Prunier’s Restaurant, [211]
• Pryor, [42]
• Purée Buffon, [227]
• “Putting the change to bed,” [191]
• Q
• “Quadragesimal Spirituel, Le,” [63]
• “Quarterly Review,” [88]
• Queen’s Guard dinner, [130]
• Queen Victoria, [136]
• Quixote, Don, [29]
• R
• Rabelais, [70]
• Rabisha, Will, [178]
• Radunski, [197]
• Reade, Charles, [245]
• “Redgauntlet,” [256]
• Reform Club, [49]
• Reichemberg, [74]
• “Religio Medici,” [62]
• Restaurant, Chinese, [118]
• „    Indian, [123]
• „    manners, [29]
• „    music, [31]
• „    Origin of, [236]
• “Return of the Native,” [170]
• Réunion des Gastronomes, [17]
• Reynière, Grimod de la, [11], [44], [129], [225], [234]
• Rhys, C. C., [61]
• Richard II, [66]
• Richelieu, Cardinal, [225]
• Ris d’Agneau à l’Amiral, [152]
• Roche, M., [102]
• Rocher du Cancale, [174]
• Rogers, S., [42]
• Rohan, Cardinal, [148]
• Romaine, [103]
• Roman cookery, [40]
• Roqueplan, Nestor, [20]
• Rossini, [37]
• Rousseau, [70]
• Roxburghe Ballads, [54], [84], [257]
• Royal Society of St. George, [140]
• „  Wedding dinner, [136]
• “Rudder Grange,” [112]
• “Rules and Orders for Government,” [239]
• Rule’s oyster house, [171]
• Russell, G. W. E., [164]
• S
• Saint Anthony, [63]
• „ Athanasius, [63]
• „ Cedd, [243]
• „ Francis of Assisi, [243]
• „ Hieronymus, [63]
• „ Macarius, [242]
• Sala, G. A., [11], [33], [86], [87], [177]
• “Salade d’Oranges,” [75]
• Salade Rachel, [227]
• Salad, [153]
• „   Laureateship, [72]
• „   to keep fresh, [100]
• „   de la Grande Jeanne, [79]
• „   Japonaise, [74]
• „   Thompson, Sir Henry, [79]
• „   “Vanity Fair,” 77
• Sallets, [64], [67], [258]
• Sauce mayonnaise, [55]
• „  à la Soubise, [223]
• Savoy Hotel, [18], [145], [155]
• Saxe, Maréchal, [148]
• Scholl, Aurélien, [42]
• “Schoole of Vertue,” [110]
• Schools for waiters, [197]
• Schütze, Dr. J. F., [69]
• Scott, Sir Walter, [105], [256]
• Scott’s oyster house, [171]
• Seager, [110]
• Seiden, John, [260]
• “Select Conversations with an Uncle,” [10]
• Seneca, [176]
• Seven Sages of the Kitchen, [112]
• Seward, Miss, [82]
• Shakespeare, [42], [63], [86]
• Shaw, G. Bernard, [237]
• Ship Tavern, Charing Cross, [31]
• Shortreed, Mr., [105]
• Sidon, King of, [15]
• Simeon Stylites, [242]
• “Simple Susan,” [258]
• Sims, Geo. R., [53]
• Sixtus the Fifth, Pope, [69]
• Sjalouschine, [187]
• Skelton, [248]
• Smallage, [258]
• Smith, Adam, [217]
• Smith, Sydney, [43], [45]
• “Smith’s Cookery,” [84]
• Smorgasbord, [115]
• Snail Feast at Newcastle, [208]
• „ spirals, [217]
• Snails, [203]
• „  Artificial, [213]
• „  for America, [207]
• „  in Austria, [215]
• „  Close time for, [204]
• „  Cooking of, [211]
• „  first brought to England, [206]
• „  French, [203]
• „  in Germany, [214]
• „  in Gloucestershire, [208]
• „  from Italy, [209]
• „  in Hampshire, [208]
• „  in Kent, [208]
• „  King of, [217]
• „  Paris consumption, [203]
• „  à la Provençale, [233]
• „  in Surrey, [206]
• „  in Sussex, [206]
• „  as window-cleaners, [218]
• Société des Amis des Livres, [127]
• Société Scientifique d’Hygiène, La, [146]
• Society of Beef Steaks, [57]
• Society of St. George, [140]
• Sole à la Pagani, [114]
• Sonnet sequence, [60]
• “Sophie,” [4], [229]
• Sot (Le) l’y laisse, [129]
• Soubise, Prince de, [223]
• Soupe à la Condé, [223]
• „   „  Lamartine, [227]
• „   „  Victor Hugo, [227]
• “Soupers de la Cour, Les,” [96], [224]
• South Down mutton, [204]
• Sowerby, [208]
• Soyer, Alexis, [40], [49]
• Spanish menu, [122]
• Spenser, Edmund, [209]
• Spirals on snails, [217]
• “Splendid Shilling, The,” [179]
• Stahl, P. J., [80]
• Stella, [173]
• Stephens, Mrs. Joanna, [212]
• Stockton, Frank, [112]
• Strasburg, [148]
• Stschi, [115], [149]
• Stylites, Simeon, [242]
• Sublime Society of Beef Steaks, [57]
• “Sufferings of the Clergy,” [110]
• Suckling, Sir John, [46], [213]
• Sullivan, Œufs à la, [38]
• Surrey Archæological Museum, [209]
• Surrey Archæological Society, [208]
• Surrey snails, [206]
• Sussex snails, [206]
• Swan, to roast, [51]
• Swan Hotel, Weymouth, [51]
• Swedish menu, [121]
• Sweeting’s oyster house, [171]
• „   Rents, [31]
• Swift, Dean, [173]
• Sybarites, [110]
• T
• “Tabella Cibaria,” [177]
• Table decoration, [159]
• “Table Talk,” [260]
• “Table Traits,” [71]
• Tachyphagia, [90]
• Talleyrand, [134]
• “Tatler, The,” [106], [179]
• Temple Coffee House, [126]
• Terrapin, [117]
• Thackeray, W. M., [23], [42], [46], [184]
• Théâtre Français, [74]
• Thompson, Sir Henry, [2], [38], [79], [128]
• Thudichum, Dr., [88]
• Toledo Council, [246]
• “Transmigration,” [88]
• “Triall of Feasting,” [93]
• “Trouble in the Balkans,” [202]
• Tschi, [149]
• Tsiganes, [35]
• “Turner’s Herbal,” [257]
• Turkey, Cookery of, [45]
• U
• “Use and Abuse of Salads,” [69]
• Uzanne, Achille, [47]
• V
• Vacchi, Allessandro, [5]
• Vaerst, Baron von, [63]
• Vallière, Duc de la, [225]
• “Vanity Fair” salad, [77]
• Varin, [75]
• Varro, [224]
• Vathek, [252]
• Véfour, [234]
• Vegetarians, [158]
• Véron, Dr., [4], [229]
• Villeroy, Duchesse de, [222]
• Villon, [42]
• Visconti, Galeazzo, [261]
• Vitellius, [224]
• Vol-au-vent à la Nesle, [223]
• Voltaire, [244]
• Vuillemot, D. J., [232]
• W
• Wadsworth, J. H., [46]
• Wagner, Œufs à la, [37]
• Waiters, Athenian, [201]
• „   British Association of, [200]
• Waiters’ Schools, [197]
• Walker, Thomas, [11]
• „   Dr., [110]
• Waller, W. F., [82], [86]
• Walpole, Horace, [104]
• “Walrus and the Carpenter,” [170]
• Waring, Henry, [1]
• Washington, George, [183]
• Watts, G. F. (R.A.), [168]
• Weever, [255]
• Weller, Sam, [180]
• „   Mr., senior, [180]
• Wellington, Duke of, [162]
• Wells, H. G., [10]
• Westminster Chapter House, [255]
• Whipping a pig to death, [106]
• Whispered Pandores, [166]
• Whistling oyster, [181]
• White Hart Tavern, [126]
• Windsor Castle, [136]
• Window-cleaning snails, [218]
• Women at dinner, [20]
• Woodhouse, Emma, [28]
• Wordsworth, [32]
• Workmen’s Compensation Act, [213]
• Y
• Yates, Edmund, [17]
• Yeo, Dr., [209]
• Z
• Zacharias, Pope, [244]
• Zakuska, [115]

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BY THE SAME AUTHOR

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