The leg of mutton has not lacked its devotees from Thackeray’s—

A plain leg of mutton, my Lucy,

I prithee get ready at three,

to Berchoux’ praise of the gigot—

J’aime mieux un tendre gigot

Qui, sans pomp et sans étalage,

Se montre avec un entourage

De laitue ou de haricot.

Sir John Suckling contributes to the poetic garland in his lines:—

The business of the Kitchen’s great