Many salads have been mixed on the stage; the most famous perhaps is the Japanese salad which occurs in Alexandre Dumas fils’ “Francillon” (produced at the Théâtre Français, 17 January, 1887). It is not orthodox, and, even when deftly mixed, not particularly nice, the flavours being coarsely blended. Annette de Riverolles, inimitably played by Reichemberg of the smiling teeth, dictates the recipe to Henri de Symeux, originally acted by Laroche. Here is the passage:—
Annette. You must boil your potatoes in broth, then cut them into slices, just as you would for an ordinary salad, and whilst they are still lukewarm, add salt, pepper, very good olive oil, with the flavour of the fruit, vinegar....
Henri. Tarragon?
Annette. Orleans is better, but it is not important. But what is important is half a glass of white wine, Château-Yquem, if possible. Plenty of finely-chopped herbs. Now boil some very large mussels in a small broth (court-bouillon), with a head of celery, drain them well and add them to the dressed potatoes. Mix it all up delicately.
Thérèse. Fewer mussels than potatoes?
Annette. One-third less. The flavour of the mussels must be gradually felt; it must not be anticipated, and it must not assert itself.
Stanislas. Very well put.
Annette. Thank you. When the salad is finished, mixed....
Henri. Lightly....
Annette. Then you cover it with slices of truffles, like professors’ skull-caps.