been made the basis for the production of the "Willesden" waterproof cloths. Cotton cloths or paper are passed through these solutions of various degrees of strength according to requirements, they are then passed through rollers which causes the surface to become more compact. There is formed on the surface of the goods a deposit of a gelatinous nature which makes the surface more compact, and the fabric becomes waterproof in character while the copper imparts to them a green colour and acts as a preservative. The "Willesden" fabrics have been found very useful for a variety of purposes.
CHAPTER II.
SCOURING AND BLEACHING OF COTTON.
Preparatory to the actual dyeing operations, it is necessary to treat cotton in any condition—loose cotton, yarn, or piece—so that the dyeing shall be properly done. Raw cotton contains many impurities, mechanical and otherwise; cotton yarns accumulate dirt and impurities of various kinds during the various spinning operations, while in weaving a piece of cotton cloth it is practically impossible to keep it clean and free from dirt, etc. Before the cotton can be dyed a perfectly level and uniform shade, free from dark spots or light patches, these impurities must be removed, and therefore the cotton is subjected to various scouring or cleansing operations with the object of effecting this end. Then again cotton naturally, especially Egyptian cotton, contains a small quantity of a brown colouring matter, and this would interfere with the purity of any pale tints of blue, rose, yellow, green, etc., which may be dyed on the cotton, and so it becomes necessary to remove this colour and render the cotton quite bright. This is commonly called "bleaching". It is these preparatory processes that will be dealt with in this chapter.
Scouring Cotton.—When dark shades—blacks, browns, olives, sages, greens, etc., are to be dyed it is not needful to subject the cotton to a bleaching operation, but simply to a scouring by boiling it with soda or caustic soda. This is very often-carried out in the same machine as the goods will
be dyed in; thus, for instance, in the case of pieces, they would be charged in a jigger, this would be filled with a liquor made from soda or from caustic soda, and the pieces run from end to end, while the liquor is being heated to the boil—usually half to three-quarters of an hour is sufficient. Then the alkali liquor is run out, clean water run into the jigger and the pieces washed, after which the dyes, etc., are run into the jigger and the dyeing done. There is usually used 2 lb. to 3 lb. of caustic soda, or 3 lb. to 4 lb. of soda for each 100 lb. of goods so treated.
If the ordinary dyeing machines are not used for this purpose, then the ordinary bleachers' kiers may be used. These will be described presently.
Bleaching of Cotton.—Cotton is bleached in the form of yarn, or in the finished pieces. In the latter case the method depends very largely on the nature of the fabric; it is obvious that fine fabrics, like muslins or lace curtains, cannot stand the same rough treatment as a piece of twilled calico will. Then, again, the bleaching process is varied according to what is going to be done with the goods after they are bleached; sometimes they are sent out as they leave the bleach-house; again, they may have to be dyed or printed. In the first case the bleach need not be of such a perfect character as in the last case, which again must be more perfect than the second class of bleach. There may be recognised:—