For shading the silk all acid dye-stuffs can be used which have been mentioned in the foregoing tables.
If in shot effects the cotton is to be dyed bright and full shades, this is best achieved by dyeing with direct colours first, and then topping with basic colours as follows:—
Bottom the cotton first with the suitable direct colours, then dye the silk and then treat the pieces for about two hours in a cold tannin bath (about 8 oz. tannin per 10 gallons of water), then rinse once and pass through a tartar emetic bath (about 3 oz. per 10 gallons), rinse thoroughly and dye the cotton to shade with basic colours in a cold bath to which some acetic acid has been added.
Should the silk become a little dull after this process, this may be remedied by a slight soaping. After dyeing rinse well and raise with acetic acid.
Shot Effects with Black Cotton Warp.—Effects much in favour are designs composed of black cotton and light or
coloured silk. The most suitable black dye for this purpose is Diamine black B H, diazotised and developed.
Dye in as concentrated a bath as possible at about 160° F. with about 6 lb. Diamine black B H, 1 lb. Diamine sky blue, pat., per 100 lb. of dry goods, ½ lb. Diamine orange D C, pat., with an addition of 6½ oz. soap, 4 to 5 dr. soda per 10 gallons liquor, 16 oz. Glauber's salt. After dyeing rinse well in a bath containing 6 dr. soda and 3 oz. soap per 10 gallons water, diazotised in a fresh bath with 4 lb. nitrite of soda and 12 lb. hydrochloric acid (per 100 lb. of dry goods), rinse thoroughly and develop with 3 to 16 oz. phenylene diamine (93 per cent.), with addition of 1 to 2 lb. soda. These two operations should follow each other as quickly as possible, also care has to be taken that the diazotised goods are not exposed to direct sunlight or heat, which causes unlevel dyeings. The silk is then cleaned as far as possible by hot soaping, and dyed at about 120° to 140° F., with acid dye-stuffs and the addition of sulphuric acid. After dyeing rinse as usual and brighten.
Yellow and Violet,—Dye the cotton with 2 lb. Diamine fast yellow A, the silk with 1 lb. Cyanole extra, and 1 lb. Forinyl violet S 4 B.
Black and Blue.—Dye the cotton with 5 lb. Diamine black B H, 1 lb. Diamine sky blue, and ¼ lb. Diamine orange D C. After dyeing, diazotise and develop with phenylene diamine as described above. Then dye the silk with ½ lb. Pure soluble blue and 1 lb. Cyanole extra.
Black and Crimson.—Dye the black as in the previous recipe, then dye the silk with 2 lb. Brilliant croceine 3 B and ½ lb. Rhodamine S.