Black and Blue.--First bath, Naphthol Black, as given above. Second bath, Diamine Sky Blue, as given above.
Black and Yellow.--Add first 1 lb. Wool Black 6 B and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then when the wool has been dyed add 2 lb. Curcumine S to dye the cotton in the same bath.
Green and Red.--Dye the wool by using 3 lb. Guinea Green B, 1/4 lb. Curcumine extra, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then add to the bath 3/4 lb. Erika B N and 3/4 lb. Congo Corinth G.
Orange and Blue.--Dye the wool first with 1-1/4 lb. Mandarine G, 2 oz. Wool Black 6 B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; then the cotton with 2 lb. Columbia Blue G.
Blue and Orange.--Dye the wool first with 3/4 lb. Guinea Violet B, 3/4 lb. Guinea Green B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; then dye the cotton with 2 lb. Mikado Orange 4 R O.
Green and Orange.--Dye the wool with 3 lb. Guinea Green B, 1/4 lb. Curcumine extra and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then dye the cotton in the same bath with 1-1/2 lb. Mikado Orange 4 R O.
CHAPTER VI.
DYEING OF GLORIA.
Gloria is a material which during the last few years has become of considerable importance as furnishing a fine lustrous fabric at a comparatively low price. The perfection to which the art of dyeing has attained and the facilities now available to the dyer, enable this to be produced more beautiful than ever, and naturally an increased demand for it as a dress fabric has developed.
Gloria is woven from the two fibres, wool and silk, of a fine texture to enable it to be used in the place of a silk fabric. Formerly it was usually woven with the wool and silk yarns already dyed, especially when a "shot" effect was to be produced, this being done by a twill weave of the fabric and by the use of yarns of two very different colours in the case of "shot" fabrics. By the introduction of dye-stuffs derived from coal tar the cloth is now dyed after being woven, care being taken to choose those which will dye the two fibres equally well when self-shades are wanted, or those which will dye one fibre better than the other, and thus allow a woven piece of gloria to be dyed of two different colours. As most dyers know, the most brilliant effects are obtained when the finished woven piece can be dyed. Then all the grease and dirt which has become attached to it during the operations of spinning the yarns and weaving the pieces can be removed before dyeing, thus leaving the fabric in a perfectly clean condition. Thus no after cleansing is required, whereas when the fibres are dyed in the yarn the goods must be cleansed after weaving to free them from dirt, and such cleaning has a somewhat deleterious effect upon the brilliancy of the colour of the finished fabric, more especially in the case of light colours.