| CHAPTER I. | |
| LARNAKA. | |
| PAGE | |
First View of Larnaka—Arrival—The Haven—The Town—CatholicChurch—Fine Carving—Kissing Relics—Marble Sarcophagi—Tombs—Derivationof Name of Larnaka—Phœnicians—Kiti—Language—ShallowHarbour—An ancient Graveyard—Relics—Nursing Bottles—Schools—Churchof St. Lazarus—A Compromise in EcclesiasticArchitecture—St. Lazarus’s Morning Walk—Ride out to curiousBuilding—Strange Doors—Phaneromene Panagia—Female Superstitions—SaltLake—Marshes Source of Ill-health | [1] |
| CHAPTER II. | |
| ATHIENU. | |
Streets of Larnaka—Game Birds—Mountain of Olympus—Negro Slaves—Nativesof Athienu—Attack on Famagusta—Repulse of the Turks—SixMonths’ Siege—Honourable Terms—Meeting of rival Generals—Treacheryof Mustapha—Butchery of the Garrison—Bragadino flayedalive—Triumphant Return of Mustapha—Dinner with an Athenitan—Dali—Twolargest Rivers—Neglected Land—Character of a Cypriote—Silkworms—Plantingof Mulberry Trees—Silk Factories—Forests—Carob-tree—Cyprusa miniature India—Fruits—Sugar—Cotton—TheGarden of the World—A Guard of Honour—First View of the Capital—Lepers—Visitto the Governor | [9] |
| CHAPTER III. | |
| NIKOSIA. | |
Morning Impressions—Easter Eve—Gardens of Fruit Trees—Society—Costumeof the Ladies—Beauties of Cyprus—Adoption of TurkishCustoms—Language—Cathedral of St. Sophia—Church of St. Nicholas—Archbishop’sChapel—Visit to the Lord Archbishop—A Rising Man—GreekPriests—Church of St. Katherine—Memorials of the Dead—St.Paul in Cyprus—Elymas, the Sorcerer—Prisons—Court of Justice—WantonDestruction—Wealthy Nobles—Enormous Establishments—GreatRiches of Merchants | [21] |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
| CYPRUS IN THE MIDDLE AGES. | |
A German Kingdom—Richard Cœur de Lion—Cyprus sold to Lusignan—KnightsTemplars—Amalrick—Becomes a Vassal to Henry the Sixth ofGermany—From A.D. 1285 to A.D. 1373—Conquest of Smyrna andAlexandria—Commerce—Wealth and Luxury—Death of James theSecond—Origin of Italian Title of Kings of Cyprus and Jerusalem—Turks—Erectionof Fortifications—Selim the Second—Attack onLimasol—Arsenal at Venice burnt—Nikosia besieged—Heroic Defence—Spoiland Captives—Result of Intemperance | [33] |
| CHAPTER V. | |
| DRAWING UP OF THE STATUTES. | |
Social Positions of the various Classes—Vassalage—Form of Government—Marriageof Lady Vassals—Law Courts—Assizes of Jerusalem—Custodyof the Book of the Law—John d’Ibelin—Knightly Law-Makers—Philipof Navarre—Grand Statute Book of Cyprus | [42] |
| CHAPTER VI. | |
| SAN CHRISOSTOMO. | |
Cyprus, European or Asian?—Buffavento—Excursion to inspect Buffavento—CarryingFire-arms prohibited—A quiet Morning Ride—Anold Turk and his Wives—The Northern Range of Mountains—St.Chrisostomo—Monastic Economy—Maria of Molino—Precautionsagainst Fever—Easter Decorations—A Remedy for Leprosy—Fortresseserected to command Passes and Roads—Spirit haunted—Unger andKotschy | [47] |
| CHAPTER VII | |
| BUFFAVENTO. | |
Bee-hives—The Queen’s Castle—Paradise—Take a Guide—Gradual Ruin—EnAvant—The Guides suspect Treasure Hunting—The Fortress—Zaptiehsand their Masters—Plucky Guide—The Highest Tower—Viewfrom the Summit—A German Female Recluse—Peculiar Peoplein Carpasia—The Descent—Fortresses destroyed by Venetians—Saleof Crown Lands—Decline of Old Nobility | [54] |
| CHAPTER VIII | |
| TURKISH GOVERNORS. | |
Visit from the Pacha—One Hundred Years Ago—How Governorsfeathered their Nests—Poll-tax—Expostulation—Report to the Sultan—Arrivalof the Imperial Envoy—Public Reading of the Sultan’sCommands—Fall of the Floor of the State Chamber—Explanation ofthe Trap—The Governor will not be governed—Attacked by thePopulace—Death of the Governor—A New Governor—Intrigues andanother Poll-tax—Popular Refusal—Preparations for Rebellion—TheWater cut off—The Edict withdrawn—Again a Poll-tax—The Nobleshead the Insurrection—Blockade of Nikosia—Again the Tax withdrawn—Arrivalof a New Governor—Disappointed Hopes—Proposals—Orderagain restored—The Poll-tax again demanded—General Revolt—Attackon Famagusta—Siege of Nikosia—Eastern Wiles—Mediationby English Consul—Fighting continued—Arrival of Corsairs—A strongArgument—Arrival of Special Envoy to compel Order—Deserters fromthe Rebel Camp—Rebels retire to Keryneia—The Castle besieged—AnOpen-hearted Turkish Sailor!—Betrayal of Halil Aga—Capitulation—Smiles—TreacherousExecution—Two Hundred salted Heads—Orderrestored | [62] |
| CHAPTER IX. | |
| THE PLAINS OF CYPRUS. | |
Expedition to ascend Olympus—No Information to be obtained—NeglectedDistricts—Game—Prompt Action of my Zaptieh—Faithful obedienceof Mussulman Servants—Akazi—Easter—Fasting extraordinary—Abstinenceof the Greeks—Heat | [77] |
| CHAPTER X. | |
| EVRYCHU. | |
Cool Waters—Evrychu—In Church—Healthy Population—Graceful andinteresting Customs—Greek Houses—Our Host and his Family—AnEaster Dinner—Classic Christian Names—Absence of large Trees—CyprioteClergy | [83] |
| CHAPTER XI. | |
| MOUNT OLYMPUS. | |
A Mountain Pass—Lost our Way—Heroism of the Dragoman!—Sight ofa Glacier—Absence of Large Timber at Base of Mountain—Dragomanagain! who fairly bolts—Horses and Zaptieh left behind—HeavyWork in the Snow—Scene from the Summit—Alone!—No Trace ofRuins | [90] |
| CHAPTER XII. | |
| CYPRUS IN ANCIENT TIMES. | |
Descent of Olympus—A Retrospect—The busy Phœnicians—Shipbuildersfor the Euphrates—The Goddess Astarte—The New Religion—TrojanWar, the first Struggle between East and West—Grecian WarriorColonists—Evidence of Ancient Inscriptions—The Nine Kingdoms ofCyprus—Attacks by Continental Nations—Cyprus appealed to forAssistance—The Cyprian Navy—Philip of Macedon—Alexander theGreat—Cyprian Shipwrights on the Indus—Artisans of Cyprus—Ptolemies—AnEgyptian Ruler—Cyprus a Roman Province—UnderRoman Dominion—Aphroditissa—The Idol Stone—Little Images of theMadonna—Revolution of the Jews—Great Slaughter—A Land ofSaints | [97] |
| CHAPTER XIII. | |
| TROADITISSA. | |
Dangerous Ground—Disappointment—Easter-Eve Festivities—An OfficialMenace—Hear of a Gentleman—Demons and Kobolds—Fini—Arrival—StableAccommodation—The Dragoman again—Hunger—CloisterRations—Wine makes the Heart Glad—A Village Congregation—AfterMass—Hospitality of the Church—Beautiful Girls—Doctors required—Fasting—PreciousRelic—Russian Gift—The Picture endowed withHealing Powers—Gratitude—Mountains and Trees—Heat—Shepherds | [112] |
| CHAPTER XIV. | |
| CYPRIAN WOODS AND FORESTS. | |
Neglect of Forests—Preservation by former Rulers—Gradual Destruction—Shipbuilding—Exportationof Timber—Wanton Destruction—ForestFires—Resin and Pitch—Process of extracting Resin—SuicidalRevenge—Protection required—British Legislation—The late Governorof Cyprus—Sad Prospect for the Island—Eucalyptus | [121] |
| CHAPTER XV. | |
| PLAGUES OF LOCUSTS. | |
Locusts in olden Times—An Egyptian Plague for Two Years—GradualIncrease—Young Locusts—Devastation—Energy of Turkish Pacha—Troopsare called out—A Remedy is found—M. Mattei—The Locustseffectually stopped | [127] |
| CHAPTER XVI. | |
| CHRYSOROGIATISSA. | |
Rivers of Southern Cyprus—Rippling Waters—View of the Monastery ofKikku—A valuable Picture—Panagia—Wild Fruits—The Monksdisturbed—Fine Figure of the Saviour—Carvings—Breakfast with theAbbot—Deserted State of the Country—Robbers—Alarm of the Servants—Prisons—Executionof Criminals—An interesting Prisoner—ACypriote Robin Hood—Dowries to a Thousand Girls—A romantic Thief—PrisonLife—Stalwart Monks—Turkish Women—Miserable Huts—Approachto Paphos—Ktima—Advent of Venus | [130] |
| CHAPTER XVII. | |
| THE TEMPLE OF VENUS. | |
Bishop of Baffo—View of the Ruins—Gigantic Stones—Old Temple—CuriousHoles in Stones, producing Echo—Mosaics—Sacrificial Rites—TheIdol Stone—Ruins of former City—View from the Temple—AnAdmirer of Sappho—A Turkish Farmer—Queen’s Cave—An inscribedStone Slab—Rock-cut Tombs—Watch-tower—Dinner: Bill-of-Fare—ATurkish Housewife—Nocturnal Reflections—Worship of Venus—HolyCloth for the Caaba—The Cone-shaped Stones—Doves of Venus—MeteoricStones | [139] |
| CHAPTER XVIII. | |
| SUMMER RESIDENCE IN CYPRUS. | |
Donkeys and Mules—Muleteers—Starting on a Journey—Mounted!—Commissariatof Travelling Cypriote—General Cesnola—Village of Dali—Out-doorNights in Summer—A delightful Retreat | [149] |
| CHAPTER XIX. | |
| CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE. | |
Family Affection—Female Influence—Modern Greeks—Bad Qualities—Simony—Flatterers—Luxury—Takinghis Ease—Shameful Effeminacy | [155] |
| CHAPTER XX. | |
| CLIMATE AND TEMPERATURE. | |
Syrian Heat—Cool Mountain Breezes—Fevers—Wine, a Remedy for Ague—Seasons—ExcessiveHeat—Hot Winds—Scarcity—Spring—September—L’Imbat—Snow | [161] |
| CHAPTER XXI. | |
| BAPPO AND KURLIA. | |
Dealer in Curiosities—Ktima—Rock-cut Tombs—Palæo Castro—Graves—Antiquities—Ossuaries—Relicsof Funeral Feasts—Ruins of a Temple—St.Paul—Koloni—Asbestos—Sacred Garden—Bath of Aphrodite—Ieroskipo—Kapatah—AncientHarbour—Ruins of Churches—BuriedTreasures—A Cyprian Dinner—Tombs—Arsinœ—Loadstone Temple—Berenice—Treasuresfor Naturalists—Tax-gatherers | [167] |
| CHAPTER XXII. | |
| EPISKOPI. | |
Coffee-house—Thistle Seeds—Snake—Game—Adimu—Apollo HyladesGuard Houses—Pirates—Lycos—Egyptian Beauties—No Accommodation | [179] |
| CHAPTER XXIII. | |
| KOLOSSIN. | |
A Turkish Farmer—Square Tower—Oxen—Norman Architecture—An oldFortress—Knights Templars—Wine—Beccaficos | [184] |
| CHAPTER XXIV. | |
| SOIL AND MINERAL PRODUCTS. | |
Mountains—Rich Soil—Alluvial Deposits—Gardens—Cooper Mines—Goldand Silver—Salt—Volcanic Eruptions—Precious Stones—Amber—Asbestos—Robesof the Priests | [191] |
| CHAPTER XXV. | |
| NATURAL PRODUCTS. | |
Under the Lusignans—Wine, Oil, &c.—Carob-tree—Cyprian Dyes—GraspingPolicy of Venice—Olive-trees—Government of Cyprus—A valuableFarm—Sultan of Egypt—Tribute—Turks—Flowers—Tobacco—Corn—Timber—Flowers—Fertilityof Soil—Jujube-tree—Distilled Oils—Cotton—Silk—Game—Wine—Taxes—Declineof Cultivation—Poorfare—Potatoes—Spiders—Beef and Mutton | [194] |
| CHAPTER XXVI. | |
| ST. NICHOLAS AND LIMASOL. | |
News of Marble Relics—Off to search—Heavy Weather—Church of St.Nicholas—Ancient Temple—Monastery Garden—Salt Marsh—BuildingHouses—Turkish Women, Coquetry—Franciscan Convent—MonasticGraveyard—A new Church—A smart Man—Manufacture of Antiquities—AParade round the Town—Hospitable Priests—Schools—DomesticEconomy of Cyprian Family—A Cyprian Lady—Chinese Nobility—Prospectsof Trade—Population—Revenue—Bribery | [202] |
| CHAPTER XXVII. | |
| AMATHUS. | |
A Morning Ride—A sudden Change—The devouring Lion—Heat—FavouredTracts—Site of Amathus—Export of Stone—A natural Fortress—Hamath—FrenchAntiquarians—A precious Relic—Vandalismby French Officers—Gigantic Vases—Adonis—Anemones—Feasts—Pygmalion—Paphos,Son of Pygmalion—Under the Ptolemies—Remainsof the City—Excavations—Amathus, the City—Mania for Destruction—Capodelle Gatte—Cats | [211] |
| CHAPTER XXVIII. | |
| KARUBIEH AND MAZOTOS. | |
Cape Karubieh—Deserted Village—Fruit Ships—Fruit—Carob-trees—ACyprian Farm-house—Our worthy hostess—Light soil—Farm Labourers—Costof living—Priests—Hospitality—Kiti—Mount of the Holy Cross—St.Helena—Sacred Relic—Game—Wine | [220] |
| CHAPTER XXIX. | |
| LAST DAYS OF LARNAKA. | |
Dancing Girls—Aphrodite—St. George the Martyr—Patron Saint ofEngland—Legend of St. George—Tenets of the Greek Church—Clergy—Churches—Servia—Panagia—SundayTrading—Handsome Girls—CyprioteHusbands—Turkish Houses—Departure from the Island | [226] |
| CHAPTER XXX. | |
| EFFORTS OF THE GERMANS TO OBTAIN CYPRUS | |
Frederick the Second—An imperial Marriage—Cyprian Opinions—Barons—Knights—Importanceof Cyprus as a Military Position—Regency—Quarrels—Promisesof Amendment—Form of Government—Departureof the Emperor—The Emperor denounced—Sedition—Terms of Peace—TheEmperor is crowned—State of Cyprus—Civil Wars—Rebellion—TheVerse-maker—Success of Ibelin | [234] |
| CHAPTER XXXI. | |
| MARSHAL FELINGHER. | |
Cyprus lost—A Fleet sent—Ibelin at Beyrut—Internal Disaffection—Defeatof Ibelin—Strenuous Efforts to raise Money—Bank Notes—TheGenoese Rise—Defeat of the Imperialists—Death of Queen Alice—PeacefulProposals—Renewed Hostilities—Papal Interference—Thelast of German Influence | [256] |
| CHAPTER XXXII. | |
| CYPRUS AND THE EUPHRATES VALLEY RAILWAY. | |
The Projected Railway—Cyprus a Terminal Station—Sir F. Goldsmid—Positionof Cyprus—Ports—Commerce—Harbours—Different Routesfor Line—Mr. W.P. Andrew—Political Importance of Line—Fertilityof adjacent Country—Re-opening a neglected Country—India nearer Home | [269] |
| Appendix. | [283] |
A MAP SHOWING THE RELATION OF CYPRUS TO THE ADJACENT COASTS.
CYPRUS,
HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE.