"But hundreds of years ago our women knew quite as much as the Frank women," observed my host.

"Yes," replied his companion, "and then we could hold our own against the Franks. But the Frank women have been educated since those times; the Effendi thinks that we ought to educate our wives in the same way."

"It would be difficult to do so," said the Turk coldly. "Their women uncover their faces; I have heard that some of them declare that they are the equals of their husbands. What ridiculous creatures they must be," he continued, "not at once to accept that inferior position which Allah in His wisdom has awarded to them!"

The following day I walked to the citadel, accompanied by my host. The building had been erected 600 years ago, as a defence against the Persians, who at that time frequently made encroachments into this part of Turkey. The solid masonry, which in many places had been allowed to go to ruin, showed that the walls had been originally built with great care. Two thousand men could have been quartered in the citadel, which now, uninhabited save by dogs and lizards, is rapidly succumbing to the elements. Convenient embrasures had been left on that side of the rampart which was easiest to assault; through them the defenders could pour down the celebrated Greek fire so much used in the middle ages.

The river, which ran below the citadel, separated us from the tower which was used as a final place of retreat should the citadel be stormed. On my asking how the garrison could cross the water, there being no bridge in the vicinity, I was informed that a subterranean passage led beneath the stream to the other bank, and, then entering the side of the rock, a winding staircase gave access to the tower. The defenders were thus able to retreat from the citadel without their movements being seen by the enemy.

It was a glorious afternoon. The view of Divriki, of its numerous minarets and domes, lying as it were in miniature below us, was very lovely. Lofty mountains, in winter garb, surrounded the suburbs on every side; and the silvery river, threading its way through the more distant quarters of the town, bubbled and splashed against the rocks and boulders. The murmur of the waters was blended with the hum of the population. The cries of the herdsmen mingled ever and anon with the report of a fire-arm in the distance.

"Is there much game in the neighbourhood?" I inquired of my companion, who, leaning against one of the battlements in the tower, was straining his eyes in the direction of the shot.

"No. A few wild goats are sometimes to be seen on the rocks. The sportsman, whoever he is, has probably managed to come upon some of them unawares. I have a beautiful gun," he continued; "I will show it you afterwards."

"Is it for partridges or for big game?" I asked.

"For big game. It is rifled," he replied, "but I often load it with shot, and shoot at partridges, that is when they are all huddled together on the ground. Do you shoot much in your country with ball?"