In the meantime I read all the books I could find which treated of Asia Minor. According to the works of those travellers who have been to Armenia in the winter, the cold would be very great. Indeed Tournefort found the wells in Erzeroum frozen over in July. Milner in his "History of the Turkish Empire," remarks of the mountainous district in Armenia, "Throughout this high region no one thinks, except under most urgent necessity, of travelling for eight months in the year, owing to the snow, ice, and intense cold."
Regimental duty detained me in England during the summer. I could only avail myself of the winter for my journey. I had experienced the cold of the Kirghiz steppes in December and January, 1876, and was of opinion that the clothes which would keep a man alive in the deserts of Tartary, would more than protect him against the climate of Kurdistan. For shooting purposes I determined to take a little single Express rifle, made by Henry, and a No. 12 smooth-bore. A small stock of medicines was put in my saddle-bags in the event of any illness on the road.
My arrangements were completed. I was ready to start.
CONTENTS.
| CHAPTER I. | |
| PAGE | |
| The start—Cartridges and medicine bottles—The obeseEnglishman and the Yankee's cook—The refreshment-roomat Dijon—"Ne vous pressez pas, messieurs"—Fellow-passengers—Thesilk-merchant—Thepretty Greek girl who was a friend of MadameIgnatieff—The doctor—The respective merits ofmedicine and Christianity—The Bay of Smyrna—TheGreek ladies are not shy—Come along andsmoke a Nargileh—A café in Smyrna—The Italianprima donna—The Christians and Turks in Smyrna—Newspapersbelieved to be in Russian pay—ThePacha's seraglio—A comely dame—Five hundredrecruits—A doleful melody—To die for the sake ofIslam—People so silly as to think that Gortschakoffwishes for peace—The fat woman—The eunuch indifficulties | [1] |
| CHAPTER II. | |
| The Bosphorus—The commissionnaires—Nothing like theHôtel de Luxembourg—Perdrix aux truffes—Baksheesh—Officialsin the custom-house—A rickety oldcarriage—A Turkish Café Chantant—A vocalist—SultanAbdul Aziz—His kismet—We are all underthe influence of destiny—"Great Sultan, rest inpeace!"—Did Sultan Abdul Aziz really kill himself?—Thepopular belief—He had agreed to sell the fleetto Russia—A Russian force to garrison Constantinople—Twoof the secret police—The other verse—Theaudience—Too much liberty in Constantinople—Englishnewspapers, hostile to Turkey, sold atevery bookstall—An English army of occupation inConstantinople—No gold; nothing but paper—Tradeparalyzed—In search of a servant—A Mohammedanservant; his costume—A coachman to a Pacha—Buffaloesas a means of locomotion—Mr. Schuyler—Mr.Gallenga—Our consul at Belgrade—Mr. Sala—Thestations along the Russian line crowded withtroops—Mr. McGahan very popular with the Christians—TheTurkish newspapers—A ruse on the partof England—An English officer—A strategic position—Someinfluential Armenians—"We have no wishto become Russian subjects"—The Catholics inPoland—Similar treatment required for all sects—Theword of a Christian in a court of law—An Armenianpriest—From Scutari to Kars—The roadblocked by snow—The dread of being seen speakingto a European | [12] |
| CHAPTER III. | |
| The porter at the hotel—A little persuasive force—Trainsin Turkey are not very punctual—Two Englishmen—Snipe-shooting—Therailroad takes a circuitouscourse—Krupp guns—The Christians are toomuch for the Turks in a bargain—Hadem Kui—Nohorse waiting—The station-master—A lanky, overgrownlad—Buyuk Checkmedge and Kara Bournu—Abranch railway required—A station-master'ssalary—The horse—Attacked by a dog—Thedefence of Constantinople—A song in which theTurks delighted—Good-looking Hungarian girls—Thehandsome Italian—"I am not a barrel"—Thesong about the Turcos—Spontaneous combustion—Aspecial Correspondent—Algeria is not Turkey, butit does not much signify | [27] |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
| Osman—Five horses for sale—An industrious man—Acemetery—A wall-eyed Turk—A little black—"Heain't got no shoulders"—A horse with a sore back—Aroarer—The blind beggars hear him coming—ATurkish horseshoe—Provisions for the journey—Aprince belonging to the Russian Embassy in the hospital—Aprince a boot-cleaner—Osman's relatives—TheHôtel Royal—A stirrup-cup—Osman's religiousscruples—The boat for Scutari—Shipping our horses—Jealoushusbands—A Turk's seraglio—Was it aTorpedo?—The panels of the Bey's carriage—An explosionof cartridges—Readjusting the luggage—Atorrent of expletives | [39] |
| CHAPTER V. | |
| Scutari—The resting-place of departed Turks—Afrightened horse—Obadiah—Tea and sugar in themud—A rahvan, or ambler—A runaway steed—Osmanalways praying whenever there is work to bedone—The grave-digger—The Hammall—Radford—Throughthe swamp—The Khan at Moltape—Amungo | [54] |
| CHAPTER VI. | |
| The proprietor of the establishment—Lingua franca—Gold,not paper—Gold a charm to the Greek—Norooms—The Onbashee—His costume—The guard-house—Aqueer place—"At gitdi! the horse hasgone!"—The Pacha at Scutari—The corporal's demeanourwhen offered a tip—A beautiful country—Thebay of Ismid—A goose plump as a Georgianwoman—A Zaptieh—The chief of the telegraphdepartment in Ismid—A grievance—The appearanceof Ismid—Washing-day—The Pacha of Ismid—Mr.Gladstone—"Gladstone is what you call a Liberal,is he not?"—The Turkish debt—Russian agentsbring about the massacres of Christians | [63] |
| CHAPTER VII. | |
| An Armenian Bishop—An economical refreshment—Ramazan—Smokingin the streets—The TurkishGovernment is not so bad—The Koran and a Christianwitness—A telegram from the Pacha at Scutari—Apost-horse to Sabanja—Two Zaptieh—Turkishswords—A horse lost—Four feet of mud—An ox-cartupset in the mud—Woe-begone drivers—Apriest during the Carlist war—Turks and Christianshave an extreme dislike to the dread ordeal—CircassianBashi Bazouks—Women ravished and thenbutchered by the Russians—Sabanja—Scenery—Therewas to have been a railway—A mule underdifficulties | [75] |
| CHAPTER VIII. | |
| Camels—The Sakaria—Geiweh—Yakoob Khan—Kashgar—TheGreeks in league with the Tzar—The KaraSu—A strategic position—Terekli—Bashi Bazouksfiring at a target—The river Goonook—A blackslave—Gondokoro—Abou Saood—How to becomerich—Set a slave to catch a slave—Sharab makesone gay—Mudurlu—Absence of shops—Toujourspoulet—English manufactures in Anatolia—A CircassianZaptieh—A precipice—A baggage-horseupset | [86] |
| CHAPTER IX. | |
| Nalihan—Armenian, Turkish, and Circassian visitors—Thestate of the roads—Will there be war?—TheImaum—The Servians—A bellicose old farmer—TheArmenians friends with the Russians—Sunnitesand Shiites—Scenery near Nalihan—Alatai river—ATurkish counterpane—Turkish beds—Osman's Yorgan—Osman'swife—A girl with eyes like a hare,and plump as a turkey—The farmer's nuptial couch—Anuncultivated district—An old Khan—A refugefor travellers—An invalid soldier—A Christian wouldhave let me die like a dog—The votaries of Christianityin the East | [95] |
| CHAPTER X. | |
| Radford and Osman—The quarrel—Do the Roossians kisseach other?—Bei Bazar—The pig tobacco—Osman'shonesty—Forage for five horses—It is a good sign ina horse to be always hungry—The Tchechmet river—TheMudir at Istanos—The Cadi's mule—Thetradition about Istanos—Caverns formerly inhabitedby marauders—A chasm—The entrance to thecaverns—A levee of the inhabitants—No newspapersin the villages—An Armenian priest—The furnitureof the room—Has the Conference commenced?—Whatis it all about?—Russia is strong and we areweak—The other Powers are afraid of Russia—WillEngland be our ally?—Are the Christians tortured?—Herewe get on very well with the Mussulmans—Thepack-saddle | [104] |
| CHAPTER XI. | |
| One lives and learns even from Turks—The Mudir'stwo sons—They like your nation—They rememberthe Crimean War—Suleiman Effendi—The Vice-Consul—Thetown of Angora was to be illuminated—Thetelegram about the Constitution—What doesthe Constitution mean?—Suleiman Effendi on education,and on religious matters—So many roads toheaven—American missionaries—The massacres inBulgaria—The intrigues of Russia—The Circassianshate the Russians—Circassian women butchered andravished by the Russians—An English priest—Theimpalement story—The Vice-Consul's wife—A pianoin Angora—Turkish ladies—A visit to the Pacha—Theaudience-room—The Pacha's son—Only onecannon in Angora—Twenty-five thousand men goneto the war—The clerk—The Bey's library—The newConstitution—The Bey's opinion about it—Turkeyrequires roads and railways—The only carriage inAngora | [116] |
| CHAPTER XII. | |
| The Pacha's carriage—The coachman an Irishman—Christmasday in Angora—The celebrities of the town—Asociety of thieves—Fire in Sivrisa—The Turksand the Armenians—So-called fanaticism—TenPachas in Angora in four years—Cases of litigation—Arrears—Thefirman of November, 1875—The faminein Angora—Deaths during the famine—The goats died—AMohammedan divine—The Russian Ambassadorand the secret societies—The English newspapersand the Bulgarian atrocities—A Turk values his nosequite as much as a Christian—Suleiman Effendi'swife—The Turkish law about property—A dinnerwith a Turkish gentleman—A mixture of nationalities—Myhost and his digestion—Spirits refreshthe stomach—The Prophet and the old woman inMecca—There are no old women in heaven | [129] |
| CHAPTER XIII. | |
| The band—Turkish melodies—Turkish music like a Turkishdinner; it is a series of surprises—Turkish etiquetteat dinner—The pack-horse is lame—The peopleask for many liras—The Postmaster is in bed—Thechief of the police—Horse-copers in Aleppo—Thefair sex in that city—A test for lovers—Weburn our fingers soon enough after marriage—Domesticlife in the harems in Angora—The immoralityin Yuzgat—Mr. Gasparini—Turkish hospitality—Armeniansdress like Turks—Christian women—Greatharmony between Turks and Christians—Armeniantestimony doubtful—The prison at Sivas—Hearsayevidence—A Turkish veterinary surgeon—Horse-dealers—Twopounds offered for the horse—Historyof the Ottoman Empire—The Bey's present—Generosityof the Turks—The devil is not so blackas he is painted | [139] |
| CHAPTER XIV. | |
| Leave Angora—The Effendi wants a turkey—A very oldcock—The cooking-pot—An Armenian woman onhorseback—Baggage upset in the river—Cartridgesin the water—Osman castigating the delinquent—Delayedon the road—Asra Yuzgat—How the inhabitantsbuild their houses—The Caimacan—Hishouse—His servants undress him—He goes to bed—Allthe cartridges spoiled | [153] |
| CHAPTER XV. | |
| The Kizil Ermak—No bridge in the neighbourhood—Howto cross the river—The triangular-shaped barge—Thecurrent—Can my brother swim?—How to embarkthe horses—Osman's expostulation—Bandagingthe horse's eyes—Yakshagan—Fresh post-horses—Anuncivil official—Madeh—Silver-mines—Water in thepits—Proper machinery wanted—Engineers required—Kowakoli—Vines—Howto preserve grapes—Sugarvery dear—A farmer—The Angora famine—Thelate Sultan—Russian assessors—We do not wishto be tortured to change our religion—Allah isalways on the side of justice—Sekili—The pace of aRahvan—Marble hovels—Hospitality—Foreign settlers—AKurdish encampment—The tax-collectors—Thewealth of the Kurdish Sheiks—The DelidscheErmak—Fording the river—A district abounding insalt—Turkoman girls—The many languages spokenin Anatolia—A lunch under difficulties | [163] |
| CHAPTER XVI. | |
| A victim to the famine—Daili—A conversation withsome Turkomans—The massacre of the Teke Turkomansby the Russians—Women violated—Littleboys and girls abused and murdered—The Muscoviteis a beast—Should not you like to cut the throats ofall the Russians?—What is the best way to get ridof a wasp's nest?—A war of extermination—Yuzgat—Acavalcade of horsemen—Mr. Vankovitch—Thetelegram—Our reception—Old friends of the Crimea—Somevisitors—Things have altered for the better—TheChristians at Yuzgat—Armenians and Turksdine together—Mr. Vankovitch's experiences—ThePolish insurrection—General Muravieff—Brutalityto the women at Vilna | [177] |
| CHAPTER XVII. | |
| M. Perrot—Armenian customs—Man and wife—Wekeep our wives for ourselves—My host's niece—Lawabout divorce—Shutting up the wives—Turkish husbands—Howto get a divorce—Marrying a divorcedwoman—Population of Yuzgat—Crime—Mines inneighbourhood—Tax paid in lieu of military service—TheCircassians—Their promise to the TurkishGovernment—Tax on land; on house-property; oncorn—Cattle—Collectors of taxes—Jealousy aboutreligious matters—Dissensions amongst Christians—AmericanMissionaries—A loyal address—Themarket—A bazaar two stories high—Awalk through the town—Gipsy women—An elderlydame—Obstreperous young ladies—The old womandances | [187] |
| CHAPTER XVIII. | |
| The Mosque—The interior of the building—The lampsof different-coloured crystal—The Turks engaged inprayer—Comparison between Christians and Mussulmans—DaravishBey—A wonderful shot—Djerrid—Astrange request—The chase—A Bosnian lady—Hercostume—A side-saddle—Even their women goout hunting—Daravish Bey dressed for the chase—Along shot—The price of a horse's forage—Mostservants rob their masters—A Russian officer—TheArmenian schools—The girls' school—Perhaps youwould like to ask the boys some questions?—Anamateur setter of questions—Mr. Marillier of Harrowschool—A sum—The schoolboys of Yuzgat—Ahalf-holiday | [199] |
| CHAPTER XIX. | |
| A visit to some Greeks—The Turkish administration—Theimpalement story—The law equally bad forTurks and Christians—Peculiarity about the Armeniansand Greeks in Yuzgat—The outskirts of thetown—An immense crowd—Women clad in longwhite sheets—Throwing the Djerrid—The game—Werode better in our time—A marriage procession—Womenriding donkeys—The head of the Mohammedanreligion at Yuzgat—The respective merits ofthe Turkish and Christian faith—Allah is very kindto all true believers—What is the good of insuring?—AnArmenian church—A raised platform enclosedby trellis work—The occupants of the gallery—Thewomen will stare at the men—Ladies distract theattention of the congregation—The Pole's house—Acheap servant | [211] |
| CHAPTER XX. | |
| The gipsies—A fearful instrument—The musicians—Thedancers—The chief of the gipsy women—Her attire—Vankovitch'swife—A glass of raki—The fatwoman—The man with the bagpipes—The dance—Thetwo girls—The old lady accompanies them—Thecastanets—What is the good of dancing?—TheLord Chamberlain, who is he?—The marriage festivalsin a harem—The old woman dances a pas seul—Osman'sinterview with Vankovitch—Oh, Osman!thou descendant of a line of thieves!—What is themeaning of this?—The Effendi's horses—The peopleat the Khans—An undulating country—Mostaphas—Unwillingnessto fight their country's battles—Severalinhabitants killed in Servia—Industriousinsects—A country like the Saxon Switzerland—Adistrict abounding with pine forests—The telegraphwire to Sivas—Saw-mills—Gogderi Soo—A housewith two rooms—The stable—The fire—The harem—Myhost and his wives—Two shots in the air—Theladies—Their legs—The discomfort of theproprietor | [220] |
| CHAPTER XXI. | |
| Sileh Zela—Its position—The old citadel—The soil in theneighbourhood—A battalion of infantry—The Caimacan—Theaudience-chamber—The Cadi—The battaliongoing to Samsoun—The local authorities—TheColonel—England would be neutral—What,desert her old friend of the Crimea?—An ally inAustria—Andrassy—An Imaum—Propensity forfighting—A Christian Bishop—The most welcomemembers of society—Yakoob Khan of Kashgar—TheRussians and the Chinese—The Khivans, Bokharians,and Turkomans—A rising of the Poles—TheArmenians in Sileh—The ancient city—A secretpassage—My tea and sugar—Osman had a sweettooth—My lord's liberality praised—Osman to kneelon his own coat—Tartars—Lazy husbands—A plainplanted with tobacco—Mountains covered with vines—Many-colouredsand-hills—A wonderful phenomenon—Bazar—PachaWilliams—Teesdale—Kars—IsPacha Williams still alive? | [231] |
| CHAPTER XXII. | |
| Tokat—The Caimacan of the town—The battalion is tomarch to Samsoun—A naturalized Englishman—Theroad from Tokat to Sivas—The population ofTokat—The rich inhabitants bribe the gendarmes—Thewant of funds—The officials' salaries in arrear—Armenianschools in Tokat—The Greeks; notmuch reliance to be placed upon them—Khiva—Tashkent—Samarcand—Mussulmansin India—TheBlack Sea and the Russian Fleet—Old soldiers inTokat—The Armenians and Greeks to be suppliedwith fire-arms—Good governors—Osman Bey— ACircassian on Russian atrocities—A statement bythe Russian authorities—Seven hundred familiesnear Labinsky—Men, women, and children at thebreast butchered—English sympathizers with Russia—TheRussians sow the seeds of dissension amongstthe Circassians—Yonn Bek—Many gold imperialsoffered to him | [242] |
| CHAPTER XXIII. | |
| The servant of the house—The Onbashee—Five piastres—Osmandetected—The guilty man—Vankovitch'sremarks—The sentence—May I put Osman inprison?—The barracks—Two old Khans—Thewomen weeping—Immense enthusiasm—Numbersof volunteers—Parading for the march—Men crying—Weshall eat the Russians—The Sergeant—TheMajor of the battalion—The Dervish—A Circassian—TheImaum of the regiment—The Muleteer—Baggageanimals required for the regiment—Abitter cry—The women's wail—The old Major—Thesoldiers' hymn—The standard of the battalion—Goin safety—God be with you! | [253] |
| CHAPTER XXIV. | |
| Osman Bey—A Circassian feud—Will there be a risingin the Caucasus?—If England were to help us—Awonderful servant—Mohammed—His Captain—AnArmenian doctor—Business is flat—The Christianpopulation to be armed—Visitors asking favours—Yourreward will be in heaven—A subscription—Promotionthrough favouritism—A sad story—Acruel father—A servant arrested for debt—Failureof justice | [264] |
| CHAPTER XXV. | |
| Mohammed's horse—The Effendi's barley—The road fromTokat to Sivas—A very pretty girl—Tchiflik—Complaintsmade against the Circassians—Highly cultivatedsoil—The Tchamlay Bel mountain—A Turkkilled—A wonderful gun—Yenihan—The YeldezErmak—The Kizil Ermak—Sivas—A ruined citadel—Theimportance of Sivas from a military point ofview—My entry into Sivas—The guard—An Italianengineer—Three American missionaries—A housepillaged | [275] |
| CHAPTER XXVI. | |
| The prison in Sivas—Christian prisoners—The gaoler—Kurdsand Circassians—A few Armenians—Falsestatement made to me by Christians—The old murderer—Thefirman for his execution—Kept in suspense—OurGovernor dislikes shedding blood—IssekPacha—He may die—His residence—The law inTurkey about murder—Mercenary dealings—Laxjustice | [284] |
| CHAPTER XXVII. | |
| The Governor calls—A great honour—The Khedive'streasurer—The Pacha's carriage—The Turks andChristians—The Russian Government—The Armeniansubjects of the Porte—The seeds of disaffection—GeneralIgnatieff—The treasurer—The Italianlady—Erzingan—The Governor's invitation—Thecold in the country—The Pacha was nearly frozento death—His march from Kars to Erzeroum—Deepchasms along the track—The Conference is over—TheMissionaries' home—American hospitality—Theladies—A Turkish woman in the streets of NewYork—A Chinese lad—New Orleans—The Anglo-Indiantelegraph—The Franco-German War—Thepotato plant—The Armenians more deceitful thanthe Turks—The converts to Protestantism—TheTzar's Government does not tolerate any religionsave its own—The superstitions attached to theGreek faith | [295] |
| CHAPTER XXVIII. | |
| An Armenian Monastery—A large garden—Farms belongingto the Monks—The Bishop—A fast day—TheTurkish finance—The Armenian merchants inSivas—The telegraph employed by them—The riseand fall in caime—The breath of scandal—A formerGovernor of Sivas—A suspicious case—His Eminencecannot marry—Are Protestant Bishops allowedto marry?—The chapels belonging to the Monastery—Acurious altar—A strange tradition—Themartyrs of Sivas—A picture of one of the Kings ofArmenia—The Kings and the Church—Things arevery different now—Privileges of the Monks—TheRussian war with Persia—An Armenian General—Hassan,Khan of Persia—Sugar—How to make alarge fortune | [307] |
| CHAPTER XXIX. | |
| The principal mosque—An ostrich egg—Curious custom—Thedancing dervishes—A regiment of cavalryleaves Sivas—The arms of the men—Appearance ofthe horses—A short route to Erzeroum—Dudusa—TheKizil Ermak—Scenery—Glass replaced by alabaster—Araid on an Armenian village—The robberscaught—Women said to have been outraged—Kotnu—Anaccident—The Zaptiehs out of temper—Mohammed'sappetite—A comparison between Mohammedand Osman | [316] |
| CHAPTER XXX. | |
| Snow—The path covered by it—The scenery—Upset ina snowdrift—Nearly down a chasm—Probing theground—A consultation—Teaching my followersmanners—May he die of the plague—A baggage-horseknocked up—Yarbasan—A dirty village—Thefarmer committing himself to Providence—Visitinghis friends—The Zaptiehs—Their remarks—TheGiaour threatened to beat us—The Inglis giaour isdifferent to the Armenian giaour | [325] |
| CHAPTER XXXI. | |
| The river Dumrudja—How to cross the river?—A waterfallin the neighbourhood—Thanksgivings—Crossingthe mountain—A house of refuge—Divriki—Itsappearance—The number of houses—Theriver Tchalt Tchai—The Captain—His evolutions—Lor!what a cropper—Serve him right, sir—AAstley's performance—My host—Mines in the neighbourhood—Peoplewith brains—Houses formerlybuilt of hewn stone—Cause of the decline of theTurkish power—Wives chosen for their looks—Howto breed a good foal—A Turk's opinion of Europeanwomen—They uncover their faces—What ridiculouscreatures they must be—The Citadel—The Persians—TheGreek fire—The view of Divriki—Sport—Arifle used as a shot gun—One of your best shots—TheKurds—Gunpowder—It is manufactured by theKurds—All Powder is sent from Constantinople—Costto the Government of cartridges—The Pachaof Sivas—His astrologer—Christians who are usurers—Turkishfamilies ruined | [333] |
| CHAPTER XXXII. | |
| Usury laws in Turkey—An Armenian in prison for debt—TheCaimacan—The Turkish creditor—HanistanEreek's father—A Government cannot be imprisonedfor debt—The redif soldiers—Their unwillingness toserve—The Armenians not to be trusted—Yanoot—Apicture of desolation—A Jordan road—Turkish soldiersdo not grumble—Arabkir—A silk-merchant—Myhost—His library—Pretty covers—A Russianservant—He was taken prisoner during the Crimeanwar | [344] |
A MAP OF CAPT. BURNABY'S ROUTE
Stanford's Geogl. Estabt., Charing Cross.
London: Sampson Low, Marston, Searle & Rivington.
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