Fig. 10. End of boat house frame
The end ([Fig. 10]) shows how Fred and Nick, with George's help, built that portion, the collar beam, O O, and the rafter being seen, while the details in [Fig. 8] give larger sketches of the manner of doing the work. The stone-work, as built by Nick, for foundation walls, is shown in both Figs. [9] and [10].
All the clapboards having been taken off the barn and old sheds, the better portions were selected for covering the outside of the new frame, and a lot of old boards were used for lining the inside of the walls and nailing on to the rafters. The next thing was to lay on the shingles. These had been provided some days before by Mr. Gregg, who had figured out the number required. He found the roof would measure 24 feet in length, including the projections over the ends of gables, and that the length of the rafters was 17 feet each, including the overhanging eaves or cornice. This made the whole stretch of length on both sides of the roof 34 feet. Multiplied by 24 feet, the length of the roof, this was 816 feet. To cover an area of 816 feet about 8,000 shingles would be required, as 100 surface feet require nearly 1,000 shingles, laid 4 inches to the weather, according to the usual custom. Mr. Gregg explained to Fred what is meant by the term "weathering," applied to shingles, clapboards, slates, or anything similar. The "weathering" part of a shingle is that portion of it exposed to the weather, when in place on the roof. It makes no difference how wide or how narrow a shingle may be, it is that portion showing from the lower end of one shingle to the lower end of the next one above it, that is the "weathering." This is generally four inches wide and it runs from end to end of the roof. Another thing Mr. Gregg explained—the term, "a square of shingling." "In this case, as in flooring, clapboarding or similar work, a square is an area 10 × 10 feet; or 100 superficial feet. In nailing down shingles," went on Mr. Gregg, "the nails should be driven so that the next course or layer will cover up the nail heads, thus protecting them from rain and damp, and preventing them from rusting. When laying the shingles, after the first courses are on, which should be laid double at the eaves, a string or chalk line must be stretched from one end of the roof to the other, four inches up from the ends of the first courses. This string or chalk line may first be rubbed over with chalk or soft charcoal, and when drawn tight from each end, it may be 'struck' or 'snapped' by raising it up in the middle and letting it strike the roof suddenly so that a mark will be left on the shingles from end to end. This will be the guide for the thick ends of the shingles to be laid against when nailing on the next course, and the process must be continued until the ridge, or top of the roof, is reached. When you paint your boat house, don't forget the roof, for a good coat of paint on the shingles will lengthen the life of the roof fully five years."
Fred, to whom these instructions were more particularly given, told his father he understood the whole matter, and he was directed to go on with the work. In the meantime the father ordered the shingle-nails required; five pounds for each thousand shingles, or forty pounds altogether.
The building being small, the whole work was soon completed, windows put in, doors hung, and floors laid; and Mr. Gregg was greatly pleased with the manner in which Fred had managed the job.
Photograph by Frank H. Taylor