"The muffler is commonly placed in the stern with the outlet directly outboard. It may, however, be in any convenient position, like under the seats in the standing room, and the piping led outboard. In any case, the piping for the exhaust should be as direct and as free from sharp bends as possible.

"When the motor is near the middle of the boat, a good practice is to lead the exhaust pipe out through the bottom, and along it to a point near the stern, where it again enters the boat and connects with the muffler. The outlet from the muffler then leads directly outboard as before. This method, especially on a large cabin boat, avoids much loss of space and the disagreeable heat of the exhaust pipe. The surrounding water quickly cools the exhaust, reduces the pressure and makes the exhaust almost noiseless.

"The particular function of the muffler is to afford a comparatively large space into which the exhaust may pass and expand, greatly reducing the pressure. The gas, under the reduced pressure, then passes out with little disturbance. The muffler need be of no particular shape, as long as the volume is sufficient. It is usually made of cast iron in the smaller sizes and of sheet iron in the larger. In many cases a long piece of rather large pipe will answer the same purpose.

"The muffler may be dispensed with and much space saved by carrying the exhaust directly through the bottom of the boat and exhausting under water. Although this is a very convenient and many times satisfactory way, great care must be used or poor results will be obtained. When the exhaust leads directly out, a certain amount of pressure is used in displacing the water. This pressure is, of course, supplied by the piston and is a 'back pressure,' retarding the piston and decreasing its power.

"A small expansion chamber or muffler should be provided between the engine and the outlet, in order to break up the violent pulsations and make the flow fairly constant. Some form of shield should be fitted over the outer end of the exhaust pipe to guide the stream of the exhaust aft and prevent the water being forced into it by the movement of the boat. Several forms of these are on the market in the shape of brass castings which bolt on to the outside of the hull and have a thread on the inside to take the exhaust pipe.

"When the under water exhaust is fitted, a pet cock should be put in the exhaust pipe near the engine. This is opened when the engine is stopped, thus preventing the water from being drawn up into the cylinders by the vacuum caused by the cooling of the gases in the pipe and cylinders.

"The under water exhaust is a very neat and simple method, when correctly installed, as all noise and heat from the exhaust pipe are avoided. The exhaust may be considerably cooled and the noise reduced by dispersion.

"With regard to stationary engines, used for domestic or other purposes, any old place is considered good enough to put them in. Now, this is one of the biggest and most expensive mistakes one can make, for as soon as some small screw gets loose in the far corner, the engine, salesman and manufacturer are unjustly blamed, simply because the present owner has not left enough room to make the small adjustments necessary in every engine and piece of machinery. Therefore, it pays always to install the engine in a light, dry place, easy of access and with sufficient space all round to enable all parts to be reached and to give plenty of room for turning the fly wheels in starting. Whenever possible, place the engine on the ground floor. On an upper floor, the necessary provision should be made to avoid vibration; if installed in the basement, place it in the best light.

"Without a good foundation, an engine may be expected to give more or less trouble from vibration, since it is subjected to forces, suddenly and repeatedly exerted, which produce violent reactions. Care should be taken to excavate down to good soil and to line the bottom with a substantial thickness of concrete in order to form a single mass of artificial stone. The foundations may then be built up of either concrete, brick, or stone. Anchor plates should be extended to the bottom of the masonry and fastened so as to prevent turning while the nuts are being screwed up. Place gas pipes or tubes with an inside diameter twice the diameter of the bolts around them, while the foundation is being built; this allows the bolts to be adjusted, and any variations between the tubes may be filled with thin cement after the engine is set.

"The top of the foundation should be finished perfectly flat and level with a dressing of cement, and after this is thoroughly dry the engine may be placed in position. When bolting down the engine, it is better to draw each bolt down a little at a time until all are tight and thus avoid straining the engine crank. After the nuts are drawn tight, if the crank turns unreasonably hard without loosening the main bearing caps, it may indicate an uneven foundation, which is a strain in the engine bed casting.