For silk and similar materials, best results can be obtained if fine cottons are used. Numbers 60, 70, or 80 would be preferable to No. 40. A good quality of fine silk is even better. It must be remembered that when working on thin silk, say two thicknesses, a coarse cotton cannot be locked centrally. Fine cotton will need a fine needle, which necessitates a fine hole needle plate.
Fig. 80. Action of shuttle in the race
If, after the foregoing points have been attended to, the machine runs easily, the parts fit properly, there is no end play to the upper shaft and the cottons pull evenly, yet the tensions are erratic, attention should be given to the loop as it draws off the shuttle heel. In machines of the C. B., O. S., and especially the V. S. class, there is a tendency for the loop to hang on the heel of the carrier, or to become trapped between the shuttle and the carrier heel. In the two former types of machines, the heel of the carrier should be rounded so as to induce the cotton to pass off as freely as possible. Sometimes it is necessary to time the shuttle a little later, that is, put the carrier back a little to allow the loop to draw off more in a line with the hole in the needle plate.
In V. S. machines the carrier is already rounded off at the heel. By referring to [Fig. 80], the action of the shuttle in the raceway can be seen, which is from A to B. The shuttle, having just entered the loop, is about to move to B. This movement can be regulated by an eccentric screw and nut ([Fig. 80]). When a machine has been taken to pieces and cleaned, this screw is not always replaced to the best advantage. If the shuttle moves too much toward B, the loop is carried by the heel of the carrier, and, at the same time, the shuttle cotton, by bearing tightly on the needle plate, pulls the shuttle toward the carrier heel, thus making it difficult for the loop to release itself. More tension is applied, perhaps more pressure is put on the take-up spring, yet the uneven tension is not overcome, and owing to the softness of the fabric, it is drawn up or puckered. The remedy is to turn the screw C ([Fig. 80]), until the carrier is in a position to allow the loop a free exit.
For such soft materials as mentioned it may be necessary to slacken both tensions. It should be remembered that the upper tension is generally somewhat tighter than the under one, and this should be a guide to the adjustment of the latter, according to the fabrics to be stitched.
To prevent puckering when the tensions are correct, reduce the pressure of the foot by loosening the thumbscrew D ([Fig. 79]). Use a small size stitch—set the feed so that the teeth are just above the needle plate. Do not have the teeth too sharp, and if necessary, rub off the knife edge with F emery-cloth. Make the foot to bear squarely on the needle plate, and the feed square to the presser foot. Round off all sharp edges from the under side of the foot, especially the back edge. Special feeders are made for silk goods in machines used for factory work, which overcome the difficulty of puckering.
By attention to the foregoing instructions, a machine should work easily, especially if the fabric is slightly pulled from behind the pressure foot.
In C. B. machines, attention should also be given to the loop as it passes over the bobbin case and off the stop pin, it being necessary sometimes to round off the latter. If the tension spring screw projects too high or is rough, it may occasionally catch the cotton.