Speaking generally, a Japanese naval officer’s (in England) idea of a holiday appears to be to come to Portsmouth, spend the day going over the dockyard, with a visit to my house to play naval war-game into the small hours as a kind of subsequent dissipation and relaxation! Whatever naval Kriegspiel may or may not be, it takes a Japanese to regard it as a dissipation.
In person, Japanese officers are very short, but the generality of them are far more “physically fit” than popular opinion imagines. The narrow-chested, sloping-shoulder variety is the exception, not the rule. Many are very well proportioned indeed. Height averages about five feet, or an inch or two over. In type of feature there is an immense variety; though black hair, high cheek-bones, and narrow eyes are common to all, general resemblance ends there. Colour varies much. Some have the same pale, yellow complexion that one often meets with in Russians; others have the more olive Italian tint. The former type have the nez retroussé, usually small; the latter have a more or less hooked nose. Features vary much according to the province or island from which the owner hails.[33] Occasionally one encounters a swarthy officer, hailing from the Northern islands, while here and there one meets a face almost typically European.
In character they are all more or less after one model. Taking them in the lump, they are the merriest lot I ever came across. No one enjoys the “At Homes” which Japanese officers invariably give before their ships leave England more than the givers of them; they make the best of hosts for that reason. These “At Homes” are a distinctive Japanese feature; no other foreign visitors in our harbours ever give them. The usual foreigner arrives, official calls are made, one or two of us may perhaps be entertained on board, and there the matter ends. With a Japanese ship, on the other hand, that is about where it begins. As an old waterman on Portsmouth Hard observed, “One Japanee is worth a dozen bloomin’ Rooshians and Eyetalians. Give me a Japper here once a month and I’ll make my bloomin’ fortune,” the fact being that the civil population, who never dare venture near a Russian, crowd on board a Japanese ship in season and out, sure that, even if they are not wanted, their invasion will be forgiven. I suppose the Japanese derive some pleasure from watching the enjoyment of these self-invited guests, though their good nature must be a trifle strained at times.
When the Shikishima was docked at Portsmouth, I happened to call, with an officer of ours in uniform. In company with several of the Shikishima’s officers, we were doing the round of the upper deck, when a tripper of the regulation type suddenly confronted us, and addressed my companion.
“One moment, sir!” he cried. “I want to see over the ship.”
My companion indicated the Japanese officers, telling the man to apply to them.
THE SHIKISHIMA ENTERING
PORTSMOUTH DOCKYARD.
“Bother the foreigners!” returned the man. “I was told that if I went on board the officials would show me round. Can’t you send one of ’em? You can tell ’em I ain’t a spy. I don’t mind showing ’em my card—at least, no; I find I haven’t any about me. But here’s my return ticket from London; they can see that if they want to. I assure you I’m not a spy, or connected with the Press in any way.”