The following copy of the daily entries in one of my original note-books takes the expedition step by step from Svartevoeg to the Pole and back to land.
As will be seen by those here reproduced, the original notes are mostly abbreviations and suggestions, hasty tabulations and reminders, memoranda to be later elaborated. The hard environment, the scarcity of materials, and cold fingers did not encourage extensive field notes. Most of these field notes were rewritten while in Jones Sound, and some were also copied and elaborated in Greenland.
In planning this expedition, every article of equipment and every phase of effort was made subordinate to the one great need of covering long distances. We deliberately set out for the Pole, with a desperate resolution to succeed, and although appreciating the value of detail scientific work, I realized that such work could not be undertaken in a pioneer project like ours. We therefore did not burden ourselves with cumbersome instruments, nor did we allow ourselves to be side-tracked in attractive scientific pursuits. Elaborate results are not claimed, but the usual data of Arctic expeditions were gathered with fair success.
| | Date. | Miles Covered. | OBSERVATIONS, ETC.
(Exact copy from original Field Papers) |
|---|
| March 1908. | 18 | 26 | Svartevoeg. Made cache here for return. Supporting
party goes back. Noon start; 4 men, 46 dogs, 4 sleds; 26 miles. Ice heavy, wavy; little snow; crystals hard;
land screened by drift. Camp on old field. Night uncomfortable;
air humid, penetrating. Snowhouse of hard snow imperfectly made. (Other notes of this
date so dim that they cannot be read. Compass directions,
unless otherwise noted, are true.) |
| 19 | 21 | Clearer, overland thick; -56° F.; Wind 2 W.; sun
feeble; blue haze. On march, ice smaller; use of axe;
crossings troublesome. Camp lee of big hummock.
Cannot send supply back; must follow for another day. |
| | 20 | 16 | Land more clearly visible; sky overcast; wind W. S. W.
1; ice worse. Small igloo. The last feed men return. |
| | 21 | 29 | Awoke, sun N. E.; orange glow; -63° F.; bar. 30.10,
steady; no clouds; sky pale purple. More snow (on
ice); groaning sledges; mirages, lands, mountains,
volcanoes. Air light; wind sky N.; Grant Land a mere
line; -46°. Torture of light snow; march 14 hours. |
| | 22 | 22 | A. M.; wind E. 3; -59°. Start 12 (noon); sky clearer;
wind 2; water sky N. Grant Land visible P. M.
(Later) Temp. rose to -46°. Wind tolerably high;
pressure lines; the big lead. Camp on old field on
bank; ice noises; search for the crossing. Young,
elastic ice. |
| | 23 | 17 | Cross the big lead. Young ice elastic and dangerous;
western sky again threatening; ice movement east;
fields small; narrow open lanes. Course for 85th on
97th; -40°; march 11 hours; 23 miles, credit 17 miles.
Ice noises; night beautiful; sun sank into pearly haze.
(Later) Orange glow; pack violet and pale purple
blue; sky late—partly cl. appearance of land W. |
| | 24 | 18 | Observations 83.31—96.27; -41°; bar. 29.70.
West bank of fog and haze. Start afternoon; no life; old
seal hole and bear tracks; long march; ice improving.
10 h.; pedometer 21 m.; camp in coming storm; rushing
clouds; signs of land W. 18 m. (credited on
course). |
| | 25 | 18 | Early awakened by dogs. Storm spent soon; sunrise
temp. -26°, later -41°; west again smoky. Back to
the bags; cracking ice; the breaking and separating
ice and the crevasse episode; in a bag and in water;
ice-water and pemmican; masks of ice. Good march
over newly-fractured ice; ice in motion. |
| | 26 | 17 | Still windy; some drift snow; another storm threatening.
How we need rest! Strong wind during the
night. Position D. R. 84.24—96.53. |
| 27 | 16 | In camp until noon. Strong winds all night; eased at
noon; clearing some; sun; weather unsettled. Short
run; squally en route; made early camp. Bar. 29.05. |
| | 28 | 0 | Weather still unsettled. Temp. -41°; Bar. 29.15; west
ugly. No progress. The drift. In camp. Anxious
about stability of igloo. The collapsed camp. Midnight;
north cloudy, but ice bright; many hummocks. |
| | 29 | 9 | Start early P. M. A little blue in the west; sun bursts;
pack disturbed; hard traveling, due to fresh crevasses.
Camp midnight; only 9 miles. |
| | 30 | 10 | Land, 9 A. M., cleared; land was seen; westerly clouds
settled over it. Observations 84.50, 95.36; bearing of
land, southern group, West by South to West by North true. Other bearings taken later place a coast line
along the 102 meridian from lat. 84° 20´ to 85° 10´. There
must be much open water about the land, for banks of vapor persistently hide part. A low fog persistent;
cannot see shore; for days we have expected to see something W., but never a clear horizon. Probably two
island S. like Heiberg, 1,800 ft. high, valleys, mountains,
snow N., table 1,000, thin ice sheet, bright nights.
From observation paper: Bar. 30.10, had risen from
29.50 in 2 hours; wind 2-3 mag. S.; clouds mist, East,
water-bands W.; shadow (of 6 ft. pole) 39 ft. |
| | 31 | 10 | Land screened by mist; wind W. 2-0. Ice fracture; no
sign of life—none since 83. |
| April 1908. | 1 | 26 | (Time of traveling) 9 to 6; ice better; fields larger;
crevasses less troublesome; temp. -32°. There is no
more darkness at night. |
| | 2 | 12 | (Start) 9.30; (stop) 8. Smooth ice; hard snow; ice 28
ft. and 32. Night bright but cloudy. Temp. -35°;
bar. 30.10; leads difficult. |
| | 3 | 10 | 8.30 to 6.30. Temp. -39°; bar. 30.12; sky clearing at
noon, but low clouds and frosty haze persist in the W.
and N. Night bright; sun at midnight under cloud and
haze. |
| | 4 | 14 | 8.45 to 6.10. Snow softer; used snowshoes; have
crossed 11 crevasses; much chopping; brash and small
hummocks. |
| | 5 | 14 | 9 (A. M.) to 5.45 (P. M.). Snow better. Ice larger.
Oh, so tired! Snowshoes. |
| | 6 | 14 | 8.10 (A. M.) to 6.15 (P. M.). Snow hard. Ice flat.
Few hummocks. Less wavy. Snow (shoes). Sun
faces. |
| 7 | 14 | 11 to 10. Beautiful clear weather; even the night sky
clear. Midnight sun first seen. Ice 36 ft. (thick).
(Another measurement gave 21 feet.) |
| | 8 | 9 | Observation before starting, 86.36, 94.2. In spite of
what seemed like long marches we made only 106 miles
in 9 days. Much distance lost in crossings. (From
field paper) bar. 29.50, rising; temp. -37°; wind mag.
N. E., 2; clouds St. 3; shadow (6 ft. pole), 32 feet. |
| | 9 | 14 | 9 A. M. to 5.30 P. M.; snow hard; ice about the same;
wind cutting; frost bites. Clothes humid. |
| | 10 | 16 | 10 P. M. to 7 A. M. Working hours changed; big
marches and long hours no longer possible; snow good;
ice steadily improving; bodily fatigue much felt; wind
1-28 W. |
| | 11 | 15 | 10.30 to 8 A. M. Observation end of March, 87.20, 95.19;
the pack disturbance of B. Ld. lost; farthest north;
little crushed ice; old floes less irregular; anxious
about food; wind 3 W. (true); 300 miles in 24 days; work
intermittent; too tired to read instruments. (From
other field notes, Temp. -39°; bar. 29.90°.) |
| | 12 | 21 | 11 P. M. to 7 A. M. Thoughts of return. Food
supply reduced. Hope to economize in warmer weather.
Very heavy ice. Much like land ice. Wind 2 W. S. W.
The awful monotony! |
| | 13 | 17 | 12 P. M. to 7 A. M. The same heavy glacier-like ice....
The occasional soup.
Hummocks 15-20 ft. Ahwelah in tears at start. W.
black. Sun under rushing vapors. Ice changes. Leads. |
| | 14 | 23 | 11 P. M. to 7.10 A. M. 88.21, 95.52. Wind light but
penetrating. Off the big field, ice smaller. Some open
leads. Little sign of pressure. Snow soft, but less
precipitation. Dogs get up better speed. 100 miles
from Pole. (From other observation papers: Bar. 29.90,
falling; temp., -44°; shadow (6 ft. pole) 30½ feet.) |
| | 15 | 14 | 10 P. M. to 7 A. M. Ice same. Wind -1, S. W. Working
to the limit of muscle capacity. So tired and weary
of the never ceasing tread! |
| | 16 | 15 | 10.30 to 8 A. M. Ice passed. Several heavy old floes.
Made 6 crossings. Wind 1-3, W. S. W. |
| 17 | 13 | 10.15 to 8 A. M. Ice same. Crevasses new. 7 crossings
Saw several big hummocks. Ice less troublesome.
Temp., -40°; bar., 30.00. Sled friction less. |
| | 18 | 14 | 9 P. M. to 6. Ice, though broken, smooth. The horizon
line not so irregular as that of more S. ice. Sky and
ice of a dark purple blue. (Bar. 30.02.) |
| | 19 | 16 | 11 P. M. to 8 A. M. (Position) 89.31. D. R. 94.03.
Camp on an old field—the only one on the horizon with
big hummocks. Ice in very large fields; surface less
irregular, but in other respects not different from
farther S. Eskimos told that in two average marches Pole
would be reached. Extra rations served. Camp in tent.
(Bar., 29.98; Temp., -46°.) |
| | 20 | 15½ | 8 P. M. to 4 A. M. An exciting run; ice aglow in
purple and gold; Eskimos chanting. Wind, S. 1 89; 46.45.
(D. R.) 94.52. New enthusiasm; good march. Temp.,
-36°; bar. (not legible on notes); course set for 97th. |
| | 21 | 13½ | 1 A. M. to 9 A. M. Observations noon: 89; 59.45; ped.
14. Camp; sleep in tent short time; after observations
advance; pitch tent; (also) made camp—snow—prepared
for two rounds of observations. Temp., 37.7°;
bar., 29.83. Nothing wonderful; no Pole; a sea of
unknown depth; ice more active; new cracks; open
leads; but surface like farther south. Overjoyed but
find no words to express pleasure. So tired and weary!
How we need a rest! 12, night. Sun seems as high as
at noon, but in reality is a little higher, owing to its
spiral ascent. The mental elation—the drying of furs,
and (making) photos—Eskimos' ideas and disappointment
of no Pole—thoughts of home and its cheer. But
oh, such monotony of sky, wind and ice! The dangers
of getting back. (From other observation papers:
Temp, ranged from -36° by mercury thermometer to
-39° by spirit thermometer; clouds Alt. St., 1; wind
mag. S., 1; ice blink E.; water sky, W.; shadow (of 6
ft. pole) 28 feet.) |
| | 22 | 0 | Moved camp 4 m. magnetic S. Made 4 observations for
altitude; S. at noon, W. at 6, N. at 12M, E. at 6 A. M.
Ice same; more open water; wind 2-3; temp., -41°;
(from field paper) W. S. W., 1 to 2. There are only
two big hummocks in sight. (Made a series of observations
for the sun's altitude, 2 on the 21st at the first
camp, 4 on the 22nd at W. M. camp, and another midnight
22-23. Before we left deposited tube.) |
| 23 | 20 | Start for home. 12.30 to noon. Fairly clear—ice
smooth, but many new crevasses. Temp., -41°. Course
for 100 mer. |
| | 24 | 16 | 11 P. M. to 9 A. M. These records, being made at the
end of the day's journey, give the doings of the day
previous—this note for the 24th is in reality written
on the morning of the 25th, when comfortable in camp.
Wind 1-2 W. Temp., -36°. Ice smooth—fields larger;
5 crossings; the pleasure of facing home. |
| | 25 | 15 | 8-8. Temp., -37°; Wind 1-2 W. S. W.; ice same. The
worry of ice breaking up for me, signs of joy for the
Eskimo. |
| | 26 | 14 | 9 to 7. Still much worried about return; possibility of
ice disruption and open water near land; wind light;
ice shows new cracks, but few have opened; seems to
be little pressure; few hummocks; snow hard and
traveling all that could be desired. |
| | 27 | 14 | 9.30 to 8. Ice same; wind S. E. 1; good going; crossings
not troublesome; dogs in good spirits; Eskimos
happy; but all very tired. Temp., -40°. |
| | 28 | 14 | 9.15 to 7.45. Ice same; wind 1 W.; snow moderately
hard; few hummocks and no pressure lines. |
| | 29 | 13 | Midnight to 8.45 A. M. Ice more active; fresh cracks;
some open cracks but no leads. Wind 1 S. |
| | 30 | 15 | Midnight to 8 A. M. Ped. registered 121 m. from Pole;
camp by D. R., 87.59-100; observations 88.01, 97.42.
Course half point more W. Temp., -34°. Start more
westerly. |
| May 1908. | 1 | 18 | 12.30 to 9 A. M. Much color to the sunbursts, but the
air humid; the temperature persistently near -40°, but
considerable range with the direction of the light winds
and mists when they come over leads. Much very heavy
smooth ice—undulating, not hummocky like S. |
| | 2 | 12 | 2 A. M. to 11 A. M. Fog, clouds and wet air. Temp.,
-15°. Hard to strike a course. |
| | 3 | 13 | 1 A. M. to 10 A. M. Thick weather; wind E. 2; ice
friction less; occasional light snow fall. |
| | 4 | 14 | 3 to 11 A. M. Air clear but sky obscured; ice very
good, but hummocks appearing on the horizon. |
| 5 | 11 | 11 P. M. to 6 A. M. Strong wind; occasional breathing
spell behind hummocks; squally with drifts. |
| | 6 | 0 | In camp. Stopped by signs of storm; tried to build
igloo but wind prevented; in a collapsed tent for 24
hours; eat only half ration of pemmican. |
| | 7 | 10 | 8 A. M. to 3 P. M. Wind detestable; ice bad; life a
torture; sky persistently obscured; no observations;
pedometer out of order, only time to gauge our distance. |
| | 8 | 12 | 2 A. M. to 10. Weather bad; windy, S. W.; some
drift; heavy going. |
| | 9 | 13 | 1 to 8 A. M. (Weather) thick; wind easier; ice in big
fields; snow a little harder, snowshoes steady. |
| | 10 | 13 | 11 P. M. of the 9th to 6 A. M. Heavy going but little
friction on sled; some drift; see more hummocks. |
| | 11 | 0 | May 11. In camp. Strong wind; heavy drift; encircle
tent with snow blocks. |
| | 12 | 11 | 12.30 to 8.30 A. M. Wind still strong; cestrugi troublesome,
but temperature moderate; sled loads getting
light. |
| | 13 | 12 | 11 P. M. of 12th, to 7.30 A. M. of 13th. Wind easier,
S. S. W.; snow harder; ice very thick and very large
fields; fog. |
| | 14 | 9 | 3 A. M. to 9 A. M. No sky; strong wind compelled to
camp early. |
| | 15 | 13 | 1 A. M. to 10. Fog; ice much crevassed; passed over
several cracks—some opening. |
| | 16 | 14 | May 16. 11 P. M. of the 15th to 6 A. M. Cl. 10; wind
again troublesome; light diffused, making it difficult to
find footing. |
| | 17 | 11 | 2 A. M. to 10. Thick; ice more and more broken;
smaller and more cracked—cracks give much trouble. |
| | 18 | 11 | 1 A. M. to 9.30. Wind more southerly and strong; ice
separating; some open water in leads. |
| | 19 | 12 | 11 P. M. to 7.30. Wind veering east; fog thicker;
ice very much broken, but snow surface good. |
| 20 | 6 | Midnight to 9 A. M. Open water; active pack; almost impossible. |
| | 21 | 8 | 11 P. M. to 9. Conditions the same; our return seems
almost hopeless; no observations—cannot even guess at
the drift. |
| | 22 | 0 | In camp. Gale N. E.; temp, high; air wet; ice breaking
and grinding; worried about the ultimate return; food
low. |
| | 23 | 5 | 3 A. M. to 7 A. M. Still squally, but forced a short
march. |
| | 24 | 12 | 12 noon to 8 A. M. Short clearing at noon; the first clear
mid-day sky for a long time; west still in haze. Water
sky W. and S. W.; no land in sight—though the boys
saw the land later when I was asleep; ice much broken.
84° 02ʹ-97° 03ʹ. |
| | 25 | 14 | 10 P. M. to 6 A. M. Ice better; no wind; thick fog;
snow hard. Temp., -10°. |
| | 26 | 12 | 11 P. M. to 7.45 A. M. Ice in fields of about 1 M.
somewhat hummocky; crossings hard; no wind. |
| | 27 | 11 | 11.30 P. M. to 9.30 A. M. Ice same; thick fog. |
| | 28 | 13 | 12 m. night to 10 A. M. Ice still same; fog; wind 3,
shifting E. S. E. and S. W. |
| | 29 | 11 | 11.30 P. M. to 9.30 A. M. As we came here the water
sky in the southwest to which we had aimed, gradually
working west, led to a wide open lead, extending from
north to south, and almost before knowing it, in the
general plan of the ice arrangement, we found ourselves
to the east of this lead. Temp. rose to zero. Ice much
broken; air thick; light vague; impossible to see irregularities.
Food 3/4 rations; and straight course for Nansen
Sound. |
| | 30 | 10 | 12 to 11 A. M. Ice in heaps; open water; brash the
worst trouble; little fog. |
| | 31 | 11 | 11.15 P. M. to 9 A. M. Ice little better; snow hard;
sleds go easy; much helping required (over pressure
lines). |
| June 1908. | 1 | 12 | 10.45 to 8. Ice in large fields; many hummocks; few heavy fields. |
| 2 | 12 | 10 P. M. to 9 A. M. Ice steadily improving. |
| | 3 | 11 | 10 P. M. to 8 A. M. Ice begins to show action of sun.
Temperature occasionally above freezing. |
| | 4 | 10 | 9.30 P. M. to 7.30 A. M. Fog; ice offering much trouble,
but friction little and load light. |
| | 5 | 11 | 9.45 P. M. to 7 A. M. Hummocks exposed to sun have
icicles. |
| | 6 | 0 | In camp. Strong N. W. gale. |
| | 7 | 0 | In camp. Gale continues, with much snow; the ice
about breaks up; anxious about map. (Not knowing
either drift or position, were puzzled as to proper
course to set.) |
| | 8 | 14 | 1 A. M. to noon. Ice bad, but snow hard, and after
rest progress good; wind still blowing west. |
| | 9 | 10 | 11 P. M. to 9 A. M. With thick ice and this kind of
traveling it is hard to guess at distances. |
| | 10 | 0 | 10.30 P. M. to 8. Bad ice; open leads; still no sun.
|
| | 11 | 14 | 10 P. M. to 8 A. M. Large smooth ice; little snow;
wind S. W., 1; no fog, but sky still of lead. |
| | 12 | 15 | 10.30 to 5. Small fields but good going; sky black
to the east. |
| | 13 | 14 | 10 to 8 A. M. Fog cleared first time since last observation.
Land in sight south and east. Heiberg and
Ringnes Land; water sky; small ice; brash and drift
eastward. We have been carried adrift far to the south
and west, and examination of ice eastward proves that
all is small ice and open water. Heiberg Island is impossible
to us. What is our fate? Food and fuel is
about exhausted, though we still have 10 bony dogs.
Upon these and our little pemmican we can possibly
survive for 20 days. In the meantime we must go
somewhere. To the south is our only hope. |