Lightships and Lighthouses

by Frederick Arthur Ambrose Talbot

The first step is the survey of the site, the determination of the character of the rock and of its general configuration, and the takings of levels and measurements for the foundations. When the rugged hump is only a few feet in diameter little latitude is afforded the engineer for selection, but in instances where the islet is of appreciable area some little time may be occupied in deciding just where the structure shall be placed. It seems a simple enough task to determine; one capable of solution within a few minutes, and so for the most part it is—not from choice, but necessity—when once the surface of the rock is gained. The paramount difficulty is to secure a landing upon the site. The islet is certain to be the centre of madly surging currents, eddies, and surf, demanding wary approach in a small boat, while the search for a suitable point upon which to plant a foot is invariably perplexing. Somehow, the majority of these bleak, wave-swept rocks have only one little place where a landing may be made, and that only at certain infrequent periods, the discovery of which in the first instance often taxes the engineer sorely.

Often weeks will be expended in reconnoitring the position, awaiting a favourable wind and a placid sea. Time to the surveyor must be no object. He is the sport of the elements, and he must curb his impatience. To do otherwise is to court disaster. The actual operations on the rock may only occupy twenty minutes or so, but the task of landing is equalled by that of getting off again—the latter frequently a more hazardous job than the former.

The west coast of Scotland is dreaded, if such a term may be used, by the engineer, because the survey inevitably is associated with bitter disappointments and maddening delays owing to the caprices of the ocean. This is not surprising when it is remembered that this coastline is of a cruel, forbidding character and is exposed to the full reach of the Atlantic, with its puzzling swell and vicious currents. The same applies to the west coast of Ireland and the open parts of the South of England. The Casquets, off the coast of Alderney, are particularly difficult of approach, as they are washed on all sides by wild races of water. There is only one little cove where a landing may be effected by stepping directly from a boat, and this place can be approached only in the calmest weather and when the wind is blowing in a certain direction. On one occasion, when I had received permission to visit the lighthouse, I frittered away three weeks in Alderney awaiting a favourable opportunity to go out, and then gave up the attempt in disgust. As it happened, another month elapsed before the rock was approachable to make the relief.

When the United States Lighthouse Board sanctioned the construction of the Tillamook lighthouse on the rock of that name, off the Oregon coast, the engineer in charge of the survey was compelled to wait six months before he could venture to approach the island. In this instance, however, his time was not wasted entirely, as there were many preparations to be completed on the mainland to facilitate construction when it should be commenced. Early in June, 1879, the weather moderated, and the Pacific assumed an aspect in keeping with its name. Stimulated by the prospect of carrying out his appointed task, the engineer pushed off in a boat, but, to his chagrin, when he drew near the rock he found the prospects of landing to be hopeless. He cruised about, reconnoitring generally from the water, and then returned to shore somewhat disgusted.

A fortnight later he was instructed to take up his position at Astoria, to keep a sharp eye on the weather, to take the first chance that presented itself of gaining the rock, and not to return to headquarters until he had made a landing. He fretted and fumed day after day, and at last pushed off with a gang of men when the sea where it lapped the beach of the mainland was as smooth as a lake; but as they drew near the Tillamook it was the same old story. A treacherous swell was running, the waves were curling wickedly and fussily around the islet; but the engineer had made up his mind that he would be balked no longer, so the boat was pulled in warily, in the face of terrible risk, and two sailors were ordered to get ashore by hook or by crook. The boat swung to and fro in the swell. Time after time it was carried forward to the landing spot by a wave, and then, just as the men were ready to jump, the receding waters would throw it back. At last, as it swung by the spot, the two men gave a leap and landed safely. The next proceeding was to pass instruments ashore, but the swell, as if incensed at the partial success achieved, grew more boisterous, and the boat had to back away from the rock. The men who had landed, and who had not moved a yard from the spot they had gained, became frightened at this manœuvre, and, fearing that they might be marooned, jumped into the sea, and were pulled into the boat by means of their life-lines, without having accomplished a stroke.

By permission of the Lighthouse Literature Mission.

THE SANGANEB REEF LIGHTHOUSE IN THE RED SEA.

It indicates a treacherous coral reef, 703 miles from Suez. It is an iron tower 180 feet high, with a white flashing light having a range of 19 miles.

The engineer chafed under these disappointments, and himself determined to incur the risk of landing at all hazards. With his tape-line in his pocket, he set out once more a few days later, and in a surf-boat pulled steadily into the froth and foam around the rock; while the men sawed to and fro the landing-place, he crouched in the bow, watching his opportunity. Presently, the boat steadying itself for a moment, he made a spring and reached the rock. He could not get his instruments ashore, so without loss of time he ran his line from point to point as rapidly as he could, jotted down hurried notes, and, when the swell was growing restive again, hailed the boat, and at a favourable moment, as it manœuvred round, jumped into it.