CHAPTER PAGE
I. The Bulgarian Border[ 1]
II. The Road to Rilo[ 15]
III. The Trail of the Missionaries[ 34]
IV. Sofia and the Bulgarians[ 49]
V. Constantinople and the Turks[ 68]
VI. Salonica and the Jews[ 82]
VII. The Dynamiters[ 105]
VIII. Monastir and the Greeks[ 134]
IX. Across Country[ 159]
X. Uskub and the Serbs[ 183]
XI. Metrovitza and the Albanians[ 212]
XII. The Long Trail[ 228]
XIII. The Trail of the Insurgent[ 246]
XIV. On the Track of the Turk[ 262]
XV. The Last Trail[ 277]

ILLUSTRATIONS

‘NOBODY BLUNDERED’ [Frontispiece]
From a drawing by Gilbert Holiday
COUNTING ANIMALS AVAILABLE FOR
MILITARY SERVICE		 To face p.[ 6]
ON A FRONTIER BRIDGE ”[ 10]
THE AMAZON}”[12]
THE MASCOT
THE ROAD TO RILO ”[ 20]
A BULGARIAN BLOCKHOUSE}”[24]
THE BRIDGE OVER THE STRUMA: TURK AND BULGAR
RILO MONASTERY: GRACE BEFORE GRUB ”[ 28]
FATHER COOK AND THE BRIGAND ”[ 32]
BULGARIAN PEASANTS, SAMAKOV ”[ 36]
BULGARIAN INFANTRY ”[ 48]
THE CATHEDRAL, SOFIA}”[54]
THE BRITISH AGENCY, SOFIA: A DEMONSTRATION
A VIEW OF SOFIA, VITOSH IN THE BACKGROUND ”[ 58]
ON THE MARKET PLACE, SOFIA ”[ 60]
DOGS OCCUPY THE PAVEMENT; PEOPLE
WALK IN THE STREETS		}”[70]
THE TURKISH BARBERSHOP
CONSTANTINOPLE: MOSQUE OF YÉNI-DJAMI
ON THE BOSPHORUS		 ”[ 74]
A HAMMAL AND A LOAD OF PETROLEUM TINS ”[ 78]
THE WALL AND BEYOND, SALONICA ”[ 86]
THE ANCIENT ARCH OF CONSTANTINE, SALONICA ”[ 90]
THE TURKISH BUTCHER ”[ 92]
JEWS}”[96]
JEWISH WOMEN
ASIATIC SOLDIERS: ‘REDIFS’}”[106]
WAITING FOR DYNAMITERS, SALONICA
THE WRECK OF THE OTTOMAN BANK}”[116]
ENTERING THE DYNAMITERS’ DEN
EXILES, SHIPPED WEEKLY FROM SALONICA ”[ 126]
ON A MACEDONIAN LAKE ”[ 136]
A GREEK ”[ 142]
A BIT OF OLD MONASTIR ”[ 148]
ORTHODOX PRIESTS ”[ 154]
CAPTIVES ALBANIANS, BULGARIANS ”[ 166]
TURKISH WEDDING FESTIVITIES ”[ 168]
A GYPSY MINSTREL}”[170]
A TURKISH TRUMPETER
OUR ESCORT FORDING A STREAM ”[ 172]
‘8 CHEVAUX OU 48 HOMMES’: ALBANIAN RECRUITS ”[ 184]
GRAVES OF DEAD COMMITTAJIS}”[194]
THE OLD TURKISH SEXTON WHO LIVED IN A GRAVE
THE HORSE MARKET}”[198]
SWEARING TO A BARGAIN
ALBANIAN WOMEN ”[ 210]
THE ALBANIAN AND HIS KULER}”[220]
ALBANIAN
A GROUP OF ALBANIANS ”[ 222]
WAYFARERS AT A ROADSIDE FOUNTAIN: TURKS ”[ 228]
IN A MOUNTAIN VILLAGE: BULGARIAN PEASANTS
DANCING THE HORO		 ”[ 236]
THE TURKISH QUARTER: DJUMA-BALA ”[ 242]
RUINS OF KREMEN ”[ 244]
A TURKISH BAND LEAVING MONASTIR}”[252]
BASHI-BAZOUKS
TURKS ON THE MARCH ”[ 256]
TURKISH TROOPS ”[ 260]
VLACHS ”[ 266]
‘HELL HOLE,’ KRUSHEVO ”[ 274]
THE MACEDONIAN ”[ 280]
COMMITTAJIS OFF DUTY ”[ 292]
MAP OF THE BALKANS ”[ 296]

THE BALKAN TRAIL

CHAPTER I
THE BULGARIAN BORDER