With these impressions, we have the honour to remain,
My Lords,
Your Lordships’ grateful and obedient Servants,
HENRY W. BEECHEY,
FREDERIC W. BEECHEY.
Harley-Street, June, 1827.
CONTENTS.
| Introduction | [xix] |
| CHAPTER I. | |
| Arrival of the Expedition at Tripoly;pleasing appearance of the Town from the Sea — Friendly Receptionof the Party by the Consul — Interview with the Bashaw, whopromises his protection and assistance — Appointment of the Escort— Visits to some of the Mahometan Residents in Tripoly — SidiMahommed d’Ghies — Preparations for the Journey — Adoption of theCostume of the Country — This precaution recommended on theexperience of the Party — Visit from the Arab Escort — Descriptionof their principal, Shekh Mahommed el Dúbbah — Sketch of theShekh’s former Life — Friendly attentions of the European Residentsof Tripoly — Arrival of Dr. Oudney and Lieutenant Clapperton | [Page 1] |
| CHAPTER II. | |
| General Description of Tripoly; itsCastle and Port — The Buildings of Tripoly commended by LeoAfricanus — Present Condition of the City — Its existing ancientremains — Burial-ground of the Ancient City — Sepulchral urns ofglass discovered there by Mr. Consul Warrington — Remarks of LeoAfricanus on the soil and level of Tripoly in the fifteenth andsixteenth Centuries — Accumulation of soil since that period —Advance of the Sea, mentioned by Leo Africanus, still observable onthe Coast of Northern Africa — These appearances adduced inconfirmation of Major Rennell’s remarks on the Lake Tritonis andthe Lesser Syrtis — Historical Sketch of Tripoly — Its actual stateand improved condition under the present Bashaw — Abolition ofPiracy, and partial discontinuance of the Slave Trade | [12] |
| CHAPTER III. | |
| Departure of the Expedition from Tripoly— Passage through Tagiura — Fertile appearance of the latter — ItsMosque, and actual remains — Tagiura considered as the site ofAbrotonum — Existence of a Salt-water Lake at Tagiura, consistentwith Strabo’s account of Abrotonum — Present tranquil condition ofthe Country in this Neighbourhood contrasted with its dangerousstate in the time of Consul Tully — Sand-heaps to the eastward ofTagiura — Remarkson their formation, and on the accumulation of Sand in other places— Dangers of the Sand-storm considered — Passage over the SandyTract to the eastward of Tagiura — Arrive at Wady Ramleh — Stormyweather at that place — Take leave of our European friends who hadaccompanied us from Tripoly — Continuance of the gale — Arrive atWady’m’Seyd — Attempt to pass, without success, across theSand-hills to the Coast — Arrive at Guadigmata — Position ofGraphara, as laid down by Scylax, considered — Ancient remainsdiscovered by Captain Smyth in the neighbourhood of Wady’m’Seyd andAbdellata — Remarks on these, considered as the remains of Graphara— Scuffle with the Arabs at Sidy Abdellati — Remains at that placeindicative of an ancient military station — Cross the range ofSelem — Extensive view from its summit over the fertile plains ofLebida and Jumarr — Rains still continue — Distress of the Camels —Meet with the English Consul on his return from an Excursion toLebida — Report of a troop of marauding Arabs lying in wait for ourParty | [33] |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
| Arrival at Lebida — Remarks on itsposition and resources as compared with those of Tripoly — Shortaccount of the City and its remains — Allusion to the African TribeLevatæ (or Levata) by Procopius — The same Tribe mentioned by LeoAfricanus — Suggestions of Major Rennell on the resemblance betweenthe terms Levata and Libya — Former position of this Tribe near theCoast confirmed by Procopius — Remarks on the term Lybia — Visitfrom the Shekh of Lebida — Violent Storm at that place retards theadvance of the party — Intrusion upon the premises of a celebratedMarábūt — Dangerous consequences of this intrusion predicted by ourescort — Departure from Lebida — Remains of the Aqueduct, and ofthe Causeway mentioned by Strabo — Arrive at the River Cinyphus,now Wad’ el Kháhan — Remarks on the River and the Morass in itsimmediate Neighbourhood — Observations on the faulty position ofthe Cinyphus in the Maps of Cellarius — This position probablysuggested by some remarks of Pliny, Ptolemy, and Mela — Extremefertility of the region of the Cinyphus — Remarks on this district,and that of Byzacium — Suggestions of Signor Della Cella withrespect to them — Present appearance of the region of the Cinyphusconsistent with the description of Herodotus — Neglected conditionof the district under the Arabs — Account of Lebida and its remainsby Captain Smyth | [50] |
| CHAPTER V. | |
| Arrival at Zelīten — Description of theVillage and District of that name — Harbour of Zelīten — Remains inits Neighbourhood probably those of the Cisternæ Oppidum of Ptolemy— Tomb of the Marábūt Sidy Abd el Salám — Respect shewn to it byour party in passing before it — General appearance of theseStructures — Arab credulity and superstition — Leave Zelīten —Remains between it and Selīn — Arrive at Selīn, the Orir,apparently, of Signor Della Cella — Proceed to Zoúia — Ports called by theArabs Mersa Gusser and Mersa Zoraig — Arrive at Mesurata, theWestern Boundary of the Greater Syrtis — Description of the Townand District of Mesurata — Account of them by Leo Africanus — Visitfrom the Shekh of Mesurata — Splendid Costume and Equipage of theShekh compared with that of our Bedouin Guide, Shekh Mahommed elDúbbah — Allusion to the report mentioned at the end of the ThirdChapter — Great demand for Medicine at Mesurata — Considerateconduct of Mr. Campbell — Speedy success of his treatment in manydifficult cases — Miraculous cure of a young Arab woman by anitinerant Sherif and Marábut — Detention of the party at Mesurata —Observations on Cape Mesurata, considered as the CephalusPromontorium of Strabo — Remarks of Signor Della Cella on thissubject — Alterations proposed by that gentleman in the punctuationof a passage in Strabo descriptive of the Promontory — Actualappearance of the Promontory sufficiently consistent with theaccount of Strabo — Well-founded Remarks of Signor Della Cella onthe extension of the Gharian Chain, &c. — Extensive View fromthe Sand-hills at the back of Mesurata — Singular contrastpresented by the view over the dreary wastes of the Syrtis comparedwith that over the plain of Mesurata — Hot wind, and swarm ofLocusts accompanying it — Alarm of the Arabs of Mesurata —Precautions adopted by them on the occasion — Destructiveconsequences (mentioned by Shaw) resulting from the visit of aflight of Locusts which he witnessed — Remarks of Pliny on the samesubject — Arrival of the Camels, and departure from Mesurata | [81] |
| CHAPTER VI. | |
| Entrance of the Syrtis — Extensive Lake,or Marsh, described by Strabo — Remarks of Strabo compared with theactual appearance and extent of the Marsh — Remains considered asthose of the ancient Naval Station, described by Strabo, at theMouth of the Lake — Appearance of another Station more to thenorthward — Gulf of Zuca — Remarks of Signor Della Cella connectedwith it — Resemblance of the names Zuchis and Zuca — Non-existenceof the Gulf of Zuca in the Greater Syrtis — Error of D’Anville andmodern Geographers on this point — Remarks of Signor Della Cella onthe terms Marsh and Lake, as applied to the bodyof water mentioned by Strabo — Dimensions of the existing Marsh —Alleged danger of crossing it — Insulated spots in several parts ofthe Marsh, corresponding with the accounts of Strabo — Arrival atSooleb — Appearance of Pasturage in this Neighbourhood — Liberalityof Shekh Mahommed — Cause of it ascertained — Sooleb occupies theplace assigned in modern Charts to the Gulf of Zuca — Continuanceof the Marsh — Remains near Mahada called Kusser el Jébbah — Storyconnected with them related by the Dúbbah — Unwillingness of ourArab Guides to cross the Marsh — Cause of this ascertained — Narrowescape of two of our party — Nature of the Soil in thisNeighbourhood — French Inscription left by the Boats of theChevrette — Another left by the Barge of the Adventure — Arrive atMahàd Hassàn, probably the Turriss Hassàn of Edrisi — Remains atMahàd Hassàn — Arrive at Giraff, where the Marsh terminatesaltogether — Refractory conduct of our Camel-drivers —Improvement in theappearance of the country — Arrival at Zaffrān — Grateful verdureof its Pasturage — Remains at Zaffrān considered as those of Aspis— Their nature and appearance described — Port called Mersa Zaffrānconsidered as that of Aspis — Difficulties attending this position— Remains on the Beach — Supposed Date of the Buildings at Zaffrān— Remarks connected with them — Castles mentioned by Leo Africanus— Construction of the Forts at Zaffrān | [113] |
| CHAPTER VII. | |
| Remarks on the City of Sort, or Sert, ofEdrisi and other Arab Geographers — Description of it by LeoAfricanus — Position of Sert, on the authority of Abulfeda —Zaffrān considered as Asna — Remarks of Major Rennell on thesePlaces — Remains at Medīnét Sultàn considered as those of Sort —Columns and other Remains described by Signor Della Cella, in theNeighbourhood of Zaffrān — Train of Argument adopted by the Doctoron this occasion — Remarks of the same Writer on the Tower ofEuphrantas, and the Town of Charax, as laid down by Strabo — Natureof the Inscriptions on the Columns alluded to by Signor Della Cella— Formidable Appearance of the Coast at Zaffrān — GeneralAppearance of the Country in its Neighbourhood — Species of Crocusabounding there — Obliging Treatment of our Party by the Arabs ofZaffrān — Arrival at Medīnét Sultàn — Description of its Remains —Further Remarks on the Tower of Euphrantas — Arrival at Nehīm —Aukward Situation of Shekh Mahommed el Dúbbah — Visit of the Dúbbahto our Tent — Object of it discovered — Departure of ShekhMahommed, well pleased with the result of his Visit | [150] |
| CHAPTER VIII. | |
| Leave Nehīm — Arrive at Boosaida — ShekhHamed Shakshak — Return of Shekh Mahommed — Revival of the Reportabove mentioned — Motive for renewing it — Discharge our MesurataCamel-drivers — Treaty with the Dúbbah for others — Interestedconduct of Shekh Mahommed — Commencement of another Salt-Lake atSharfa — Easy mode of shifting Quarters practised by the Arabs —Their manner of travelling — Termination of the Lake — Arrive atShegga — Remains of Forts observed there — Other Remains in itsneighbourhood — Abundant Pasturage at Shegga — Fortress ofBengerwàd — Peculiarities of its Position — Bengerwàd considered asthe Castle of Euphrantas — Objections to this supposition — Reasonsin favour of it — Leave Wady Shegga — Cross a Tract of Red Sand —Spacious Bay at Ras Howeijah — Good Anchorage probably found there— Remains of an ancient Town near Ras Howeijah considered as thoseof Charax — Trade of Charax alluded to, as mentioned by Strabo —Further reasons for placing the Tower of Euphrantas at Bengerwàd —Allusion to the barter of Silphium at Charax — Emendations ofStrabo’s Text proposed by Signor Della Cella — Arrive at Hudīa —Alleged Origin of this Name as applied to the place in question —Hudīa lately infested by a formidable Band of Robbers — Precautionsof our Arab Escort to prevent any Attack — Rigorous Measures ofMahommed Bey apparently very necessary — RemarkableHill of Gypsum atHudīa — Celebration of Christmas-day by our Party at Hudīa —Fortress at Mahirīga — Arrival of a party of Pilgrims from theWestward — Disturbance at Linoof — Apparent causes of it — Illbehaviour of the Dúbbah — His sudden change of Conduct, and artfulManœuvres — Remarks on Arab Character — Satisfactory Termination ofthe Disturbance — Arrival at Mukhtár, the Boundary of the Districtsof Syrt and Barka | [178] |
| CHAPTER IX. | |
| Barren and desolate appearance of theCountry in the Neighbourhood of Muktáhr — Sulphur Mines at Kebrīt —Extensive Marsh near Muktáhr — Arrive at Sachrīn, the southernmostPoint of the Gulf — Singularly desolate and comfortless Appearanceof it — Examination of the Coast from the Heights of Jerīa —Extreme Difference of its Outline from that laid down in modernCharts — Suggested Causes of this Error — Accumulation of Sand onthe Beach in this Neighbourhood — Alarm of Signor Della Cella inpassing it — Causes of this Accumulation considered — Character ofthe Country at the Bottom of the Gulf — Observations of SignorDella Cella respecting it — Allusion of the Doctor to theExpedition of the Psylli — Remarks on the Latitude of this part ofthe Gulf — Monuments of the Philæni — Record of their Patriotism bySallust — Various Positions of the Philænian Altars by the Ancients— Boreum Promontorium and Oppidum of Cellarius — Suggested Causesof their Position by this Author in the Bottom of the Gulf —Observations on the Nature of the Soil of the Greater Syrtis —Allusion to the March of Cato across it — Island called Bushaifa atthe Bottom of the Gulf — Gradual Improvement in the Appearance ofthe Country — Arrival at Braiga — Remains observed there — Harbourof Braiga — Heaps of Sulphur lying on the Beach there forEmbarkation — Salt Lake and Marsh at Braiga below the Level of theSea — Well-constructed Forts at Braiga — Braiga considered as theSite of Automala — Contest between the Avarice and Conscience ofthe Dúbbah — Its termination in favour of the latter — Arrival atTabilba — Excavations and Remains there — Tabilba considered as theMaritimæ Stationes of Ptolemy — Arrive at Ain Agàn — Chain of SaltLakes and Marshes said to extend two Days to the South-eastward —Island of Gàra, probably the Gaia of Ptolemy — Wells of sweetWater, two Miles to the North-east of Shiebah — Abduction of a Lambfrom an Arab Shepherd by our Party — Consequences of this Measure —Departure of the Dúbbah in search of his Camels — Arrival atCarcora — Two Boat Coves observed there — Springs of Fresh Waterwithin a few feet of a Salt Water Lake — Arrive at Ghimēnes — Fortsand Remains there — Excavated Tombs in the Neighbourhood — Changeof Weather experienced — Wasted Condition of our Horses fromFatigue and want of Water — Hardy Constitution of the BarbaryHorses — Treatment of them by the Arabs — Improved Appearance ofthe Country in approaching Bengazi — Singular Fences of Stonegenerally adopted in this part of the Country — Causes of theirErection — Position of Bengazi — Fertile Appearance of the Countryabout it — Arrival at Bengazi — Friendly Reception of our Party bySignor Rossoni, the British Resident there — Establish ourselves inthe Town for the rainy Season | [209] |
| CHAPTER X. | |
| OBSERVATIONS ON THE GULF ANDSHORES OF THE GREATER SYRTIS. | |
| The Dimensions of the Gulf, according toAncient Writers, considered, and compared with those resulting fromthe Observations of the Expedition — Difference in the Statementsof the several Writers quoted — Reasons why a Difference may beexpected in their Accounts — Observations of Major Rennell on theMeasurements of the Ancients — Ptolemy’s Outline of the Gulf morecorrect than any hitherto given — Number of Square Miles of Errorin modern Charts of the Greater Syrtis — The Ideas of AncientWriters (Herodotus excepted) with respect to the Nature andResources of the Syrtis (the Territory, not theGulf of the Greater Syrtis is here meant) more erroneousthan the Dimensions which have been assigned to the Gulf itself —The General Character of the Syrtis not that of a Sandy Plain —Incorrectness of the Arab Accounts of what is termed by them theDesert of Barka — Account of Herodotus considered — ApparentAccuracy of his Statements — Inferences drawn from them — AncientAccounts of the Gulf of the Greater Syrtis, dimensionsexcepted, very correct — Accumulation of Soil on the Shores of theGulf accounted for — Apparent Elevation of the General Level of theSyrtis — Advance of the Sea on the Northern Coast of Africa —Appearance of the Coast at Alexandria and Carthage consistent withthat of the Shores of the Greater Syrtis and Cyrenaica —Observations of Major Rennell and Dr. Shaw on the Elevation of theCoast of Tunis, and the Advance of the Sea in that quarter —Observations of Lucan on the Level of the Greater Syrtis — Dangersof the Navigation of the Gulf of Syrtis considered — Inset into theGulf still existing to a great extent — Flux and Reflux of the Seamentioned by Strabo and Mela considered — Remarks on the Derivationof the term Syrtis | [254] |
| CHAPTER XI. | |
| The Rainy Season sets in at Bengazitowards the middle of January, and continues with littleinterruption till the beginning of March — Miserable Condition ofthe Town during that period — Construction of the Houses —Improvidence of the Arabs — Dirty state of the Streets — Swarms ofinsects which infest them — Position of Bengazi — Description ofits Harbour — Castle of the Bey — Visit to Bey Halīl — FriendlyReception of our Party by his Excellency — Occupations andarrangements during the Rainy Season — The Shekh el Belad Mahommed— Jews of Bengazi — Trade of the Town — Produce of the Environs —Wretched state of the Bullock Vessels — Mahometan Inhabitants ofBengazi — Alarm of the Lower Classes during our residence there —Confusion resulting from it — Mob collected at our door on thisoccasion — Narrow Escape of Mr. Giacomo Rossoni — Friendly Conductof our Mahometan Acquaintance — Parley with the Arabs — Dispersionof the Mob — Prejudices of the Arabs respecting the Treatment ofDiseases — Fatal Effects of this species of Folly at Bengazi —Prevalent Diseases in Bengazi and its vicinity — Singularcause of Alarm among a Party of Arab Shekhs — Arab notions ofdecorum and propriety contrasted with those of European Nations —Bengazi supposed to occupy the Site of Berenice and Hesperis —Existing Remains there — Little regard manifested by Turks andArabs for the relics of Antiquity — Probable Limits of Berenice —Quarries, and singular Chasms in its Neighbourhood — Gardens ofHesperides — Position of the Gardens according to Scylax, Pliny,and Ptolemy — Conjectures of Gosselin and others respecting them —Circumstances which appear to favour our position of the Gardens —Lakes and Subterranean Caverns in the Neighbourhood of Bengazi, (orBerenice) — Concealed Body of Water observed in one of the latter —Examination of the Caverns — Remarks of the Bey respecting it — TheSubterranean Stream in question considered as the River Lathon, orLethe — Testimonies of the Ancients on this point — SupposedCommunication of the Subterranean Stream with the Lake adjoiningthe Harbour of Bengazi — Signification of the term Lathonalluded to — Further Remarks in confirmation of our suggestedPosition of the River, and of its probable Communication with theLake above mentioned — Remarks of Strabo and Cellarius on thesubject — Temple of Venus, and Lake Tritonis of Strabo — Remarks onthe name Berenice — Total ignorance of the Arabs ofBengazi with respect to the former celebrity of their City —Pleasing little Fable of Kazwini, on the changes which take placein the Nature and Appearance of Places, and the little knowledgewhich remains, after a lapse of time, of their former Condition,even on the spots where they existed | [281] |
| CHAPTER XII. | |
| Remarks on the Soil of Bengazi and theCountry in its Neighbourhood — Distinction of Sex in the Palm-tree,&c., noticed by the Ancients and by Mahometan Writers — PersianAnecdote of a Love-sick Date-tree — Remarks of Shaw on thePropagation and Treatment of the Palm — Arab Mode of cultivatingthe Sandy Tracts in the Neighbourhood of Bengazi — Journey toCarcora — Completion of the Coast-line from that Place to Bengazi —Return to Bengazi, and Departure for Teuchira and Ptolemeta —Description of the Country between Bengazi and these Places —Remains observable in this Track — Correspondence of the Towercalled Gusser el Towēl with that of Cafez, mentioned by Edrisi —Probable Site of Adriane — Arrival at Birsis — Remains in itsneighbourhood, at Mably (or Mabny), considered as those of Neapolis— Hospitality of the Arabs of Birsis — Remains of Teuchira —Position of the City — Quarries without the Walls covered withGreek Inscriptions — Teuchira a Town of Barca — Walls of the Cityrepaired by Justinian — No Port observable at Teuchira — Mistake ofBruce in confounding Teuchira with Ptolemeta — Good Supply of freshWater at Teuchira — The excavated Tombs of the ancient City used asDwelling-houses by the Arabs of the Neighbourhood — Indispositionof our Chaous (or Janissary) — Route from Teuchira to Ptolemeta —Remains at Ptolemeta — Port and Cothon of the ancient City — OtherRemains observable there — Ptolemaic Inscriptions — PicturesqueRavines in the Neighbourhood of Ptolemeta — Position of the City —Remains of Bridges observed there — Advantages of its Site —Extreme Drought at Ptolemeta, recorded by Procopius — Reparation ofthe Aqueducts and Cisterns by the Emperor Justinian — ExistingRemains of an extensive Cistern at Ptolemeta, probably among thosealluded to by Procopius — State of the Town, its Solitude andDesolation — Luxuriant Vegetation which encumbered its Streets whenthe Place was first visited by our Party — Change of Scene onreturning to it in Summer-time | [339] |
| CHAPTER XIII. | |
| OBSERVATIONS ON THE CITIES OFTEUCHIRA AND PTOLEMETA. | |
| Actual Condition of the City of Teuchira— Perfect State and great Strength of its Walls — Suggested Periodof their Erection — Mode in which they are constructed — Gates ofthe City — Narrow Passage communicating with them — ProbableAdvance of the Sea at Teuchira — Line described by the Walls —Estimated Circuit of them according to Signor Della Cella — GreekInscriptions cut in various parts of them — Suggestions of SignorDella Cella respecting them — Actual Nature of the Inscriptions —Excavated Tombs in the Quarries of Teuchira — Egyptian Names ofMonths generally adopted by the Inhabitants of the City — GeneralNature of the Plans of the Tombs — Some of the Bodies appear tohave been burnt, and others to have been buried entire — NoDifference appears to have obtained at Teuchira between the Modesof Burial adopted by its Greek and Roman Inhabitants — EncumberedState of what are probably the earliest Tombs — Solitary instanceof a Painted Tomb at Teuchira — Remains of Christian Churches, andother Buildings within the Walls — Disposition of the Streets —Remains without the Walls — No Statues, or Remains of them,discovered by our Party at Teuchira — Remarks on the Wall ofPtolemeta — Remains of a Naustothmos, or Naval Station, observedthere — Other Remains of Building on the Beach near the Station —Further traces of the City-Wall — Dimensions of Ptolemeta — Remainsof Theatres found there — Description of the larger one — Ruinsdescribed by Bruce as part of an Ionic Temple — Other Remains inthe Neighbourhood of these — Remarks on the Style of some of theBuildings of Ptolemeta, as contrasted with those of Egypt and Nubia— Probable Date of its existing Remains | [367] |
| CHAPTER XIV. | |
| JOURNEY FROM PTOLEMETA TOMERGE. | |
| Departure from Ptolemeta — Romantic andPicturesque Appearance of the Road — Luxuriant Vegetation whichadorned it — Arrive at the Summit of the first Range — BedouinTents on the Plain above — Pleasing Manners of their Inhabitants —Character of the Scenery on the Summit of the Lower Range — Beauty ofthe Route continues — Arrive at the Plain of Merge — Character andPosition of the Plain — Our Camel-Drivers refuse to proceed —Artful Conduct of Abou-Bukra — Appeal to Bey Halil — ProjectedMission to Derna — Abou-Bukra comes to Terms, and brings his Camelsfor the Journey — Pools of Fresh Water collected in the Plain ofMerge — Use made of them by the Arabs — Prevalence of a VirulentCutaneous Disease among the Arab Tribes of Merge and itsNeighbourhood — Remains of a Town at one extremity of the Plain —Remarks on the District and City of Barca — Testimonies of Strabo,Pliny, Ptolemy, and Scylax, respecting the Port of Barca — Remarkson the Position of the City of that Name — Arab Accounts of Barca —Edrisi, Abulfeda, &c. — Unsatisfactory Nature of the Accountsin Question — Mode of reconciling the Arab Accounts of Barca withthose of Scylax — Suggested Position of the Ancient City —Peculiarity of Soil attributed to Barca — Observations on itsProduce and Resources — State of Barca under the Arabs — Decay ofthe Ancient City after the building of Ptolemais on the Site of itsPort — The Barcæans remarkable for their Skill in the Management ofHorses and Chariots — Their Country formerly celebrated for itsexcellent Breed of Horses — Degeneracy of the present Breed —Account of Barca by Herodotus — Other Accounts of its Origin —Siege and Plunder of the City by the Persians under Amasis —Subsequent state of the City till the building of Ptolemais | [386] |
| CHAPTER XV. | |
| JOURNEY FROM MERGE TO CYRENE. | |
| Departure from Merge — Deep Marks ofChariot-wheels on the Stony Road indicative of an ancient Track —Valley of Bogràta — Ancient Wells observed there — Valley ofHareebe — Beauty and Luxuriance of the Country continue — Roses ofthe Cyrenaica mentioned by Athenæus as celebrated for theexcellence of their Perfume — Oil (or Ointment) of Roses made atCyrene in the time of Berenice (probably the Daughter of Magas) —Difficulty and Danger of some Parts of the Road — Apprehensions ofour Arab Conductors — They appear to have been groundless — Arriveat Margàd — Bad State of the Road continues — Quarrel betweenAbou-Bukra and one of our Servants — Consequences of the Quarrel —Departure of Abou-Bukra — Continue our Route alone and succeed infinding the right Track — Return of Abou-Bukra and his people —Satisfactory Termination of the Disturbance — Oppressive SiroccoWind — Nature of the Country on approaching Cyrene — FirstAppearance of a Plant resembling the Daucus, or Wild Carrot —Resemblance of this Plant to the Silphium, as expressed on ancientCoins — Points in which it differs from it — Remarks on theSilphium as mentioned by ancient Writers — Testimony of Herodotus,Arrian, Theophrastus, Pliny, Athenæus — Bill of Fare of the Kingsof Persia, stated by Polyænus to have been discovered in the royalPalace by Alexander the Great — Silphium mentioned in this amongother articles of Food — Description of the Plant by Theophrastusand Pliny — Celebrity and Scarcity of the Silphium and of the Extract from it —Extraordinary Cause of the first Appearance of the Silphium in theCyrenaica, as mentioned by Pliny on the authority of Greek Writers— Effects produced by the Plant on the Sheep and Cattle who wereallowed to eat it — Similar Effects produced by the Plant observedby the Expedition on Camels — Extraordinary Medicinal Qualitiesimputed to the Silphium by Pliny — The use of it recommended by theRoman Naturalist as a sovereign remedy for almost everything butthe Tooth-ache — Fatal Consequences recorded by Pliny, of applyingit in the Case last mentioned — Silphium offered by the People ofCyrene to their first King Battus, as the most valuable Productionof their Country — State in which the Plant observed by theExpedition most resembles the Silphium on the Coins of Cyrene —Partition of the Road from Merge to Cyrene — Extensive Traces ofBuilding observed along the ancient, or lower Road — Approach toCyrene indicated by innumerable Sarcophagi and Tombs — Position ofthese along the sides of the Roads, as observable at Pompeii andother ancient Towns — Frequent Traces of Chariot-wheels stillobservable along the Roads, deeply indented in the rocky Soil ofthe Place — The earlier Tombs distinguished by their simplicity andgood taste — The later by a more ornamented and less perfect style— Busts and Statues scattered everywhere about among the Tombs —Difference of Style and Character observable in these — Remains ofan Aqueduct — Fountain of Cyrene | [405] |
| CHAPTER XVI. | |
| Description of the Fountain — Excavationswhich enclose it — Sculptured Tablet discovered at the entrance ofone of the Chambers — Early Character of its Style — BeautifulBas-Relief in white Marble discovered near the Fountain —Indications of Porticoes in front of the excavated Chambers — GreekInscription cut over one of them — Remains in front of the Fountain— Aqueduct above it — Peripteral Temple, probably of Diana — FemaleStatue discovered there — Position of Cyrene — Delightful View fromthe Town — Excavated Galleries and Tombs — Nature and Style of theTombs — Variety displayed in the disposition of their Interiors —Remains of Painting discovered in them — Suite of what appear to beAllegorical Compositions, painted on the Metopes of one of theDoric Tombs — Practice, at Cyrene, of painting the several Membersof Architecture — Remarks connected with this Practice | [424] |
| CHAPTER XVII. | |
| Arrival of Captain Smyth at Derna — OurParty set out from Cyrene to meet him — Remains of Ancient Forts,and Sarcophagi observed on the Journey — Marks of Chariot-wheels inthe Stony Track indicative of an ancient Road — Barren Appearanceof the Mountains which rise at the back of Derna — Perilous Descentfrom their Summit to the Plain below — Exhausted condition of ourHorses in accomplishing it — Arrive at Derna, where we found theAdventure, and wait upon Captain Smyth — Description of the town ofDerna — Ravages occasioned by the Plague there — Prompt Measures ofMahommed Bey in subduing it — Some Account of Mahommed Bey — Civility and attentionreceived by our Party from Signor Regignani the British Agent atDerna — Take leave of Mr. Tindall, who sails on board the Adventure— Departure from Derna on our road to Apollonia — Gradual increaseof Vegetation observed on the Route — Thickly-wooded Ravines anddangerous Passes on this Road — Beautiful Stream at Elthroon —Arrive at El Hilal — Capacious Harbour at that place — AncientRemains observed there — Arab Encampment at El Hilal — DishonestConduct of our Chaous — Arrive at Apollonia — No Water to be foundthere — Begin to dig a Well in order to procure some, our stockbeing wholly exhausted — Bad Success of this attempt — Continue ourJourney to Cyrene — Miss the Path over the Mountain, and lose ourway among the Thickets and Underwood — Inconvenience of thismistake to all Parties — Find the right track, and at length reachthe Fountain of Apollo — Rencontre of our Servants with some femaleInhabitants of the Mountain — Singular position of the Caves whichthey lived in — Gain intelligence at Cyrene of a Spring in theneighbourhood of Apollonia — Set out again for that place —Description of the Road — Architectural Remains, and beautifulappearance of the Country through which it passes — Meet with anHyæna in the dusk of the evening — The forest much infested bythese animals and Jackalls — Peculiarities of both — Arrive atApollonia, and find the Springs described to us — Other Caves inthe Mountain — Unwillingness of their Inhabitants to admit us —Description of the City of Apollonia | [467] |
| CHAPTER XVIII. | |
| Observations on the Position of Ras Sem —Remarks of Bruce connected with this place — Difficulty ofreconciling the several positions assigned to it — ExtravagantStories related of its Petrifactions, supposed to be those of HumanBeings — Fallacy of these Statements as recorded by Shaw — Reportof Petrified Remains at Ghirza made to Captain Smyth by Mukni (Bey,or Sultan, of Fezzan) during the progress of his Excavations atLebda — Journey of Captain Smyth in search of the objects describedto him — Description of the actual Remains at Ghirza — MonumentalObelisk discovered there, and Tombs, combining a mixture of theEgyptian and Grecian styles of Architecture — Indifferent Taste andExecution of these Remains — Veneration in which they are held byMahometans of all classes, who suppose them to be Petrified HumanBeings of their own persuasion — Geographic Position of Ghirzadetermined by Captain Smyth — Further Observations on the Remainsat Apollonia — Return of our party to Cyrene — Account of that Citycontinued | [501] |
| CHAPTER XIX. | |
| Historical Sketch of Cyrene — ItsFoundation by a Lacedæmonian Colony — Dynasty of the Battiades, orFamily of Battus — Cession of the Country to Ptolemy Lagus — Andafterwards to the Romans by Apion, the last of the Ptolemies whopossessed it — Cyrene becomes a Roman Province, and is united inone Government with Crete — Illustrious Persons who were natives ofCyrene — Tenets of the Sect of Philosophers termed Cyrenaic — Decayof the City and its final Desertion in Christian times after theTransfer of the Bishopric to Ptolemeta — Return of the Expeditionto Bengazi, and its subsequent Departure for Malta | [558] |
APPENDIX.