St. Austell is situated in a highly cultivated part of the county, on the side of a hill. It is now become a very considerable and populous market town, and with the parish, which is one of the largest extent, contains no less than 6175 inhabitants. Although it has no claim to antiquity, it is noticed only as a poor village in Leland’s times; but the numerous Mines in its vicinity,[[8]] have caused its present rapid rise. The Church, which stands nearly in the centre of the town, is a handsome fabric, ornamented with fanciful and grotesque sculpture.[[9]] Over the principal entrance on the south side, are some curious cyphers, the meaning of which has not been satisfactorily explained, by the most intelligent antiquarians. The interior is commodious, and contains a few good monuments. The Font resembles that in Bodmin church.
The benefices of St. Austell and St. Blazey, are coupled together, and are in the gift of the crown: it is now enjoyed by the Rev. Richard Hennah. St. Blazey is famous for being the landing place of Bishop Blaze, the patron of the woolcombing trade; whose effigy is in the parish church, to whom it was dedicated, and from whom its name was derived. In this parish also is held an annual festival, on the very period which is observed for the commemoration of the great blaze by all the woolcombers in the kingdom. In a field near the church is a stone above seven feet high, and not above 18 inches square, whose inscription is totally obliterated; but tradition says it was a sepulchral monument of a West Saxon Chief. On it are several crosses engraven.
The market of St. Austell is held on Friday, the charter for which was first bestowed by Oliver Cromwell, as a grateful reward for the heroic exertions of one May, who had a seat near the town; and for his particular gallantry displayed in a battle fought near Boconnoc, in Cornwall. It is plentifully supplied with all sorts of provisions. A large market, equal to a fair, is held annually on the day preceding Good Friday. It has two fairs for bullocks, sheep, coarse woollen goods, &c. The first is held on Whit Thursday, and the other on the 30th of November. Since the year 1792, there have been two additional fairs, or shows of cattle, held annually at this place; the one to be constantly on the third Tuesday in July, and the other on the third Tuesday in October. Both these last mentioned fairs are for horses, bullocks, sheep, &c.
Although the manufactured commodities in St. Austell are not deserving of mention, except it be in coarse woollens; yet its commerce in various branches is very considerable, and its inhabitants numerous. They are in general remarked for an industrious thriving people, deriving their subsistence from trade.
Not far from the western parts of the town, are three very spacious Blowing Houses. In two of them, cylinders are adopted instead of the common-formed bellows, and this mode of operation is considered preferable to the other.
There are Quarries in this neighbourhood, which produce what is commonly called china clay. Sometimes not less than 1000 tons per year is shipped at Porthmear, and conveyed to Bristol, Liverpool, and Wales, and from those places to Staffordshire; where it is manufactured into porcelain.
Near this town, at a place called Menacuddle, is a waterfall, over which is a small dilapidated arched Chapel, supposed formerly to have been used as a place of retirement, for the sake of holy purification. Although it is near the road, yet, being in a wood, is not easily seen. It is a very pleasing subject for the pencil as a vignette, and has been engraved on more than one occasion.
Penrice, which is only two miles south of St. Austell, is an antient mansion, but has lately undergone a complete modernization by the proprietor, Joseph Sawle Sawle, Esq.: it contains a few good family portraits.
The ride from St. Austell to Mevagissey, a distance of six miles, is very pleasing. The opening bay of the sea is a striking feature, and bursts suddenly upon the traveller at a place called Portuan, within two miles of Mevagissey.
As a fishing town, Mevagissey ranks before any other in the county. It has a spacious Harbour; and the town, having very narrow streets, is chiefly built in a bottom; but has an imposing appearance when viewed from the neighbouring heights, with the beautiful mansion and plantations of Helegan forming the back ground.