A short distance from the castle, near the ferry across Anthoney Passage, are some small remains of an antient Chapel, called Shillingham, which is richly over-grown with ivy.
The manor of Ashe-torre, or Esses-torre, the site of which is a rock at the bottom of Saltash town, abutting on the water, has an extensive jurisdiction, although it was itself held as seven fees under the honor of Trematon. Carew speaks of this rock as “invested with the jurisdiction of a manor, and that it claymed the suites of many gentlemen as his freeholders in knights’ service.” This manor, which extends its jurisdiction into several parishes in Cornwall and Devonshire, belonged to the ancient family of Fleming of Devonshire, Barons of Slane in Ireland: it was sold in the sixteenth century, by Nicholas and Robert Dillon, sons and heirs of Anne, one of the sisters and co-heiresses of Christopher Fleming, Baron of Slane, to Thomas Wyvell, Esq. from whose family it passed, by a female heir, to the ancestor of Francis Wills, Esq. of Saltash. The site of this manor is thus described in old papers:—“All that messuage, dwellinghouse, palace, &c. and waste ground in and nigh Ashe-torre Rock, with the remains of houses, on which premises manor-courts were held, all unconnected with any other person’s land, and forming a peninsula, situated at the bottom of Fore street or road, in the borough of Saltash, on a rock, part of which abutteth into the sea.”—A record of the year 1620 is said to have claimed Wadsworthy as parcel of the demesne of the manor of Ashe-torre.
Ince Castle, the seat of Edward Smith, Esq. is an interesting building, situated on the banks of the Lynher, and forms a conspicuous object in this part of the county.
Returning to the high road at the distance of three miles, is Landrake, the Church of which is remarkable for its high tower, which is visible for many miles round. In the interior is a curious brass plate, dated 1509, with an effigy of Edward Courtenay, Esq., and a monument to the memory of Nicholas Wylls, Gent., who died in the year 1607.
Wootton, an antient seat in this parish, has long since gone entirely to decay.
Near Landrake is Stockton, the seat of Admiral de Courcy, a modern mansion, commanding many interesting views. The interior contains a number of war-like instruments, and a variety of natural curiosities.
From Landrake to St. Germains, a decayed market and Borough-town, the distance is three miles. This place is remarkable as having been in early time, the seat of the episcopal government of the diocese of the county; and it takes its name from St. Germain, Bishop of Auxerre, who is said to have resided here for a time, during his visit to England. It is situated in a very romantic dell, on the borders of a creek formed by the river Lynher, about nine miles from Plymouth and eight from Liskeard; but is one of the largest parishes in the county, being 20 miles in circumference. It has been represented in Parliament since the year 1562; the right of electing the members being vested in the inhabitant householders, who have resided 12 months within the Borough. The town, as it is called, which contains less than 100 dwellings, is governed by a Portreve, chosen annually at the Court Leet. Leland spoke of it as “a poor fischar town,” and he adds, that “the glory of it stood by the priory.” Carew observed, “the church-towne mustereth many inhabitants and sundry ruines, but little wealth, occasioned eyther through abandoning their fishing trade, as some conceive, or by their being abandoned of the religious people, as the greater sort imagine.” Its market scarcely existed even when the survey of Domesday was taken; having been reduced almost to nothing in consequence of the Earl of Moreton’s market (most probably Saltash) then lately established in the neighbourhood. This market was at that time held on Sundays; but the day was afterwards altered to Friday: in Browne Willis’s time it was very inconsiderable, and has long been wholly discontinued. There are two cattle fairs, held May 28, and August 1.
Whitaker supposes the bishop’s see to have been established at this place, so early as the year 614. That St. Germains was the episcopal see as long as an episcopal see existed in the county of Cornwall, he has proved in the most satisfactory manner; but of its existence at that early period, his learned volumes on the subject of the Cathedral of Cornwall afford no proof; nor have we any intimation from history of any Bishop of St. Germains before the year 910, when Athelstan was appointed to that see. King Athelstan, who founded a college of Seculars here, made Conan Bishop of St. Germains in 936. After the death of Bishop Burwold, Livingus, Bishop of Crediton, procured this bishopric to be annexed to his own, and his successor Leofric made interest to have them both united to that of Exeter. Leland says, that Bartholomew (Iscanus) Bishop of Exeter, who died in 1172, changed the Monks of St. Germains into Canons Regular, on account of the laxity of their lives. At the suppression of this monastery in 1535, it was valued at £227. 4s. 8d. clear yearly income. King Henry VIII. leased the site of the priory and other lands to John Campernown and others; relative to which grant, Carew has the following story. “John Champernowne, sonne and heir apparent to Sir Philip of Devon, in Henry the Eighth’s time, followed the court, and through his pleasant conceits, of which much might be spoken, wan some good grace with the King. Now when the golden showre of the dissolved abbey lands rayned wellnere into every gaper’s mouth, some two or three gentlemen (the King’s servants,) and Master Champernowne’s acquaintance, waited at a doore where the King was to passe forth, with purpose to beg such a matter at his hands: our gentleman became inquisitive to know their suit; they made strange to impart it. This while, out comes the King: they kneel down; so doth Master Champernowne. They preferre their petition; the King grants it: they render humble thanks; and so doth Master Champernowne. Afterwards, he requireth his share; they deny it: he appeals to the King: the King avoweth his equal meaning in the largesse; whereon, the overtaken companions were fayne to allot him this priory for his partage.” Norden has strangely mistaken this story, and says, that King Henry VIII. bestowed the priory of St. Germains upon an ancestor of the Eliots, “being full of pleasant conceytes wherewith the Kinge was delited.” It is certain that the Champernownes became sole possessors of the priory estate, and that in 1565 they conveyed it to Richard Eliot, Esq., of Coteland, in Devonshire, in exchange for that manor. Sir John Eliot, son of Richard, was a distinguished patriot in the reign of James I., and an active opposer of the Duke of Buckingham and the court measures, particularly that of raising taxes without the consent of Parliament: for some bold speeches on this subject he was committed to the tower, where he died in the year 1632. Daniel Eliot, his grandson, left an only daughter, married to Browne Willis, the celebrated antiquary, by whom we are informed that his father-in-law, in order to keep up the family name, bequeathed his estates of Edward Eliot, grandson of Nicholas, fourth son of Sir John above-mentioned, from whom they descended to the present possessor.
It appears that the Cathedral, now the Parish Church, was first built in the reign of Athelstan, when it formed a part of the Priory, founded at the same time for Secular Canons. On the removal of the diocese to Exeter, the manor of St. Germains was divided between the Bishop and the Prior of the convent. On the Priory site a spacious mansion has been erected for the residence of the Eliot family, and is now the property of the Right Hon. the Earl of St. Germains. It is called Port-Eliot, but was formerly called Porth-Prior. The exterior is not very striking; perhaps “its simplicity,” says a late writer, “is more correspondent to the scenery by which it is surrounded, and which is rather to be called pleasing than picturesque or grand.” The interior, however, is embellished with some fine portraits by Sir Joshua Reynolds, Rembrant, Opie, &c.
The Church almost adjoins Port Eliot House, and in point of architectural beauty, is equal, if not superior to any in the county.