St. Agnes contains upwards of 300 inhabitants, and is situated about a mile to the south-west of St. Mary’s. It is extremely pleasant, fertile, and well cultivated, but is chiefly remarkable for its beautiful light-house. This highly useful structure was completed about the year 1680, under the superintendance of Mr. Adam Walker, the celebrated lecturer on natural and experimental philosophy; it is upwards of 60 feet high, and is built on a very elevated spot. The light is produced by several parabolic reflectors of copper, plated with silver, and each having an Argand’s lamp in its focus, supplied with oil from behind. The frame in which the reflectors are disposed, stands perpendicularly to the horizon, on a shaft united to a machine below, that turns the whole round every two minutes; by this motion the light progressively sweeps the whole horizon, and by its gradual intermission and increase, is readily distinguished from any other; its brilliancy is also extraordinary; and by these combined effects, its benefits are greatly increased, as the seaman is at once rendered completely sensible of his situation.[[54]] The charges attending the erection of this light-house, were defrayed by the Trinity House; but all vessels passing it pay the same rates as those received by the one on the Long Ships at the Land’s End, except coasting vessels, which pay only a shilling each. There is a small church on this island, the service of which is performed by a minister, appointed and paid by the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge.
St. Martin’s, which is situated about three miles eastward of St. Mary’s, appears from the remains of the numerous enclosures which intersect it in various places, to have been formerly well cultivated, and it would in all probability have been entirely deserted, had not Mr. Thomas Ekines, a respectable merchant of these islands, encouraged some people to settle here about a century ago. This gentleman likewise caused a tower and spire to be erected on it, as a land mark to seamen passing this part of the channel. The inhabitants chiefly consist of between 30 and 40 families, who are mostly related to each other, and much attached to the place. They have also a church, the service of which is performed by the minister appointed by the same Society, who also officiates at Trescow and Bryher. Borlase has noticed a druidical circle on this island; and from the several barrows which are also to be seen, concludes that not only this, but most of the other islands were in former ages very populous, and the lands much cultivated. “The barrows,”says that learned writer, “were all constructed in one manner; the outer ring is composed of large stones pitched on end, and the heap within consists of smaller stones, clay, and earth, mixed together: they have generally a cavity of stone work in the middle, covered with flat stones; but the barrows are of various dimensions; and the cavities, which, being low, and covered with rubble, are scarcely apparent in some, consist of such large materials in others, that they make the principal figure in the whole monument.” Although he had several of them opened, nothing of any consequence was discovered.
Trescow, which is situated two miles south-west of St. Mary’s, is only about half the size of that island; although Leland describes it as the largest of the whole cluster. It is, however, chiefly remarkable for having once possessed a monastery, some small remains of which are to be seen in a very beautiful situation, near the borders of a lake, separated from the sea by an ever-green bank. There are also the ruins of several other buildings; but those belonging to the Old Castle, which are situated on an eminence overlooking the harbour are most extensive. “Some other fortifications are called Oliver’s Castle, Battery, &c., in honor of Cromwell; though that called Oliver’s Castle seems to have been originally fortified many years prior to the civil wars; about the conclusion of which, these islands were seized for the king, by Sir John Grenville, who afterwards capitulated to Blake and Sir George Ascough.
This event was chiefly effected through the judicious disposition of the Parliament’s forces on this island, and on Bryher; which prevented supplies being carried to St. Mary’s, where the King’s forces were concentrated.”[[55]]
The number of inhabitants at Dolphin Town amounts to about fifty families, who live in about twenty small houses. Here is also a Church and some Tin Mines; the latter, although of little value, are said to be the only mines now to be seen on any of the islands. This circumstance is the more singular, as the Scilly Islands have long been noted for their numerous mines, and extensive trade with the Phenecians, &c. Much has been said by Borlase and other celebrated writers respecting the great change which the islands have undergone; not only in regard to antiquities, trade, extensive population, &c.; but that it must be evident to those who are acquainted with the situation, all the changes have arisen from the continual encroachments made by the sea, and violent tempests. The many shipwrecks which have also occurred, have in a great measure prevented many persons from entering into trade with them. It is the opinion also of a very eminent writer; that the islands are undoubtedly undergoing a gradual diminution; and that at no great distance of time, St. Mary’s will probably be divided by the sea, and a channel formed through the low land, between the new town and the south-east side of the garrison.
Bryher or Brehar, so called from its extreme mountainous position, is situated to the west of Trescow, and contains little to interest the tourist, except several barrows; the largest of which, situated on high ground, is 77 feet in diameter. Borlase says, “within this barrow are many kistvaens, as the Britons call stone cells; and many of the flat stones which covered them, lie here and there; some keeping their first station, and some being removed to make stands for shooting rabbits, with which this part of the hill abounds.” The number of families now resident in Brehar, do not exceed 20. At low water, the Sands between this island and that of Trescow, may be crossed by foot passengers.
Sampson Island is chiefly composed of two circular hills, connected by a low rocky precipice. The inhabitants are but trifling compared to the other islands, but it is noted by Borlase for containing several stone barrows, some rock basins, a kistraen, &c.
After the conquest of the Scilly Islands by King Athelstan, they were bestowed on several monks, and continued in their possession till the reign of Henry I., who granted “to Osbert, one of the Abbots of Tavistock,” all the churches of Scilly, with their appurtenances, and the land, as the monks or hermits held it in the time of Edward the Confessor, and Burgald, Bishop of Cornwall. “Prior to the reign of Edward I., they appear to have reverted to the crown, being then held by Ranulph de Blackminster, who paid annually, at Michaelmas, a rental of 300 puffins, or six shillings and eight pence.” In the reign of James I., they were leased to Sir Francis Godolphin, and are now held by the Duke of Leeds, on a lease for 31 years, granted in the year 1800, at an annual rent of £40, with the option of a renewal on paying a fine of £4000.
The climate of the Scilly Islands is reputed to be both milder, and more equable than that of Cornwall; but the storms which occur, are more sudden and violent. The natives are remarked for being a robust and hardy race of people; but as a late celebrated writer[[56]] observes, “were it not for the facility with which they obtain spirituous liquors, they would live to an advanced age.”
They are mostly employed in maritime pursuits, and in making kelp from the Algæ, which is disposed of to the Bristol merchants for the use of the glass manufactories. The same writer also justly observes; “from a combination, however, of unfortunate circumstances, in addition to the fatal blow given to the smuggling trade by the activity of the preventitive service, the inhabitants were reduced to such extreme distress, that it became necessary in the year 1819, to appeal to the generosity of the public in their behalf; and notwithstanding the great difficulties of the times, the sum of £9000 was collected for their relief: in this great work of charity it is but an act of justice to state, that the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, by their purse, as well as by their writings, performed a very essential service. The funds thus obtained, were in part appropriated to the relief of the immediate and pressing distress under which they laboured, while the remainder was very judiciously applied towards the promotion of such permanent advantages as might prevent the chance of its recurrence. A fish cellar was accordingly provided in the island of Trescow, for the purpose of storing and curing fish; boats adapted for the mackerel and pilchard fisheries were purchased, and others were repaired; nets and various kinds of tackling were also at the same time liberally supplied. By such means have the inhabitants of these cheerless rocks been enabled to avail themselves of some of the resources which Providence has placed within their reach, and their families have been thus enabled to exist without the dread of absolute starvation.”